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Thread: SC Washer Issue

  1. #1

    SC Washer Issue

    I have a 2006 Sportster 4-Tech SCIC. Do the washers on that new of a model SC still need to be replaced? Also, I blew out my pump bearings and am replacing my wear ring. I have everything off and am probably going to go with a stainless wear ring and new impeller. Do I have to do any other mods in order to run a new impeller and what pitch is recommended. Any help would be appreciated. I need to buy all the bearings and parts for the rebuild of the pump. Does Jerry's store offer those items and tools? What are the chances I did damage to my drive shaft or other end of the drive shaft when I blew out my pump bearings. I was able to idle back at 5 MPH which chewed up my wear ring, but not the prop too bad. Lastly, are ceramic bearings available/recommended, or just the stock on the pump? How much does Jerry charge for the green wheel complete rebuild with washers? Second time poster looking for help.


  2. #2
    JFizzleJR's Avatar
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    Yes, even the 2006 and 07 skis need the washers replaced

  3. #3

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    I don't know a great deal on the subject of a pump bearing going out, but I'll answer what I can:

    Do the washers on that new of a model SC still need to be replaced?
    Even more so, it seems, for some reason. It is a good time to upgrade the SC wheel for more boost, though.

    Do I have to do any other mods in order to run a new impeller and what pitch is recommended.
    No, a new prop is a fine first mod, and will make a big change for the better. When my boat was stock, I put on a Solas Concord 13/18, and the acceleration was absolutely night & day, and it put the RPMs perfectly at 8100. When I got my Green SC wheel put in, I had to repitch it 1mm to keep the RPMs there and gained some speed. Solas came out with a recommendation of a 14/19 on a stock boat, which is too tall on a stock boat in my opinion, as I just graduated to a 14/19 on mine and I have significant mods. I'd send you that 13/18 for 75 bucks, just to get it off my shelf.

    Does Jerry's store offer those items and tools?
    The store is where you'd find the stainless steel wear ring, props, and other aftermarket goodies. He does have a link to order OEM parts, but is geared towards the skis. The boats use many of the same parts as the skis though, so you could go on sea-doo's site, then go to their parts finder and look up the part numbers for the pieces of the pump you need. Then check out the part number for an RXP or RXT, they could very well be the same (they use the same pump). If they part numbers are different, he might be able to get them anyway, if you ask.

    are ceramic bearings available/recommended
    If you're talking about the pump bearings, the only choice besides the stock setup, is sending it to Skat-Trak, and they will modify it to a double-bearing configuration (used to be triple). If you're talking about the supercharger, I stuck with the stock metal ones myself, I didn't see the reason to upgrade. There have been a limited number af problems with the ceramic bearings too, with them coming out of their jacket, though I think the future bearings will have a stronger jacket.

    How much does Jerry charge for the green wheel complete rebuild with washers?
    $50, plus the cost of the green wheel and Riva washers; best deal in town.

  4. #4

    Thank you

    Thanks for all the great info. This site is great.

  5. #5
    What are the advantages of a double bearing configuration and where do I find Skat Trak? Also, how hard is it to put in a solid engine mount and what are the advantags?

  6. #6

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    http://www.skat-trak.com/watercraft.html

    I remember the triple-bearing mod was something like $350; I assume the new mod is about the same price. The main purpose of the both the bearing mod and the solid front engine mount are the same: to prevent the impeller from bouncing around inside the jet pump. This movement of the impeller will wear the plastic wear ring much faster, or with a SS wear ring, wear the impeller's edges down eventually. Most choose the solid front engine mount, because it is cheaper and easier to get done. The mounts are on sale now for $130 (they were $170 when I got mine). The install took about an hour for me, and that includes wedging small 2"x4" blocks around the engine to prevent any movement during the install. Once you have the engine where it won't move, it's just a matter of taking out three bolts, sliding the original mount out, and then the new one in, and finally securing the bolts back in place.

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