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  1. #1

    Coolant change question/problem

    Alright so I did a coolant change on my 4-tec today - I thought my roommate was gonna be home to help me (where you have to check for air bubbles while the other person pours the coolant in).

    He left, so I dumped a bunch of coolant in (not above max or anything), and let it flow out, then went to the back of the ski and looked at the drain plug area. The flow out wasn't full force (like when I initially opened the drain plug), but I saw a few bubbles leave, then it seemed like a solid stream (not full flow though, again).. At this point I popped the plug back in and filled the overflow tank to about midway (same point it was prior to the change)..

    Now my question is, what is the likely hood that there are still air bubbles (this is my first time doing an antifreeze change on any vehicle), and if they are still there, what could happen (negatively)??

    Also if I changed it incorrectly, do I have to re-do the whole process (maybe just open it up and let more fluid out when there are no bubbles, if any etc)?


  2. #2
    Sounds like you did OK. as long as you had a strong stream, then installed plug before coolant bottle emptied, you`ll be fine, expect to add some more to top off when you initially fire up ski, so have some antifreeze on hand...PR...

  3. #3
    k - if there are still bubbles in the system, will it work its way out or will the ski overheat/other serious problems?

  4. #4
    EZ Dock of Long Island Shibby1485's Avatar
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    whats up Pete!

    chiefwigms is the proud owner of my 03 NA 4-tec i sold him about 1 year ago

    anyways... when i change coolant i never bother pouring it in then getting the plug in there quick. just drain the system, put the plug back in, fill it up to about the "MAX" level.... leave the coolant cap off....flush the ski and get it hot and warm enough so that the thermostat opens up and the coolant will start flowing and work out air bubbles and "bleed" itself... once that thermostat opens the coolant level will likely drop...

    you may need to flush it once or two for 3-4 minutes at a time to get the engine hot enough to open the thermostat... don't let it run and run and run bc u can fry the carbon seal.

  5. #5
    once again, shibby comes through!!! Thanks man - i was gonna IM you, but you were away - figured this would be the other fastest way to get help...

  6. #6
    So could you just fill up the coolant and take it out on the water and just let it idle for 5 minutes. Then look at it and make sure it is between max and min ?

  7. #7
    EZ Dock of Long Island Shibby1485's Avatar
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    wellllll.....lemme check the owner's manual...

  8. #8
    EZ Dock of Long Island Shibby1485's Avatar
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    ok, it took alot of strenous investigation and avid reading.....but it appears flushing the ski for 5 minutes (cautious of overheatin driveshaft seal) and putting the ski in the water for 5 minutes would yield the same results... the manual didn't spell it out for me, but i think whether u run the ski on the hose or in the water will inevitably make the engine warm up and commence coolant flow

    Who woulda thunk it?

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Shibby1485
    ok, it took alot of strenous investigation and avid reading.....but it appears flushing the ski for 5 minutes (cautious of overheatin driveshaft seal) and putting the ski in the water for 5 minutes would yield the same results... the manual didn't spell it out for me, but i think whether u run the ski on the hose or in the water will inevitably make the engine warm up and commence coolant flow

    Who woulda thunk it?
    I don`t know Shibbs!?, the drain plug method is better, less chance of trapping air in there.
    1 rule of thunb, if you used a gallon bottle to acurately capture used coolant, and your level was dean on before the change, then what comes out must go back in, count on it!...PR...

    right to the last drop!

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