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  1. #1

    Join Date
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    Post 96 SLTX 1050 Rebuild

    Looking for some gotchas to watch out for. I am rebuilding my 1050 after it grenaded the center rod. I was fortunate and did not break the case.

    What I have done so far.
    1) Sent the crankshaft for repair.
    2) Cleaned motor parts
    3) Honed cylinders & checked for clearances
    a) New piston to Cylinder are at .006
    b) Ring gaps .022 at top mid and bottom
    4) New WSM Platinum piston set

    Not sure what caused the failure. The engine had 170 hours m/l.
    With the exception of the broken rod and piston that was beat with the bearing cage the rest of the engine looks good. The Mag & PTO piston are scuffed on the skirts not sure if this was caused by debris from the rod.

    I have owned this Ski for 6 or 7 years using 10-15 hours a year. My only complaint about operation, prior to breaking, is that the ski seems to load up when idling and makes a jump from low to high power setting with a very poor (non-existent) mid range.

    Thanks
    Dennis


  2. #2

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    i couldnt tell ya , but mine has to settings idleing and clinch your knees for deer life ,

    every thought about upgrade to 40 mm carbs or some reeds ?

  3. #3

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    lol that sounds about right

    I have not thought about bigger carbs or reeds. Performance has been plenty for an old geezer.

  4. #4
    axgrider73's Avatar
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    Degg,

    I want to welcome you to the Green Hulk Forums!!!

    Sounds like you have a pretty good handle on your rebuild so far. I would go through the fuel system while you are in there. Clean/check the carbs, and inspect/replace (if needed) fuel hoses.

    I am sure others will chime in with more things to check. Keep us posted on your progress.

    Good luck,

    Rob

  5. #5

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    Ax.

    Thanks, I Will plan to clean and inspect the carbs.

    Do you know how many hours one should expect a motor to last. 170 doesn't seem like much.

    D

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by axgrider73 View Post
    Sounds like you have a pretty good handle on your rebuild so far. I would go through the fuel system while you are in there. Clean/check the carbs, and inspect/replace (if needed) fuel hoses...
    Welcome.
    You may want to check the fuel hoses inside the fuel tank. If they are plastic, you may want to replace them now, rather than waiting for them to crack or break while riding.

    Also, if you replace the fuel lines to and from the motor, (Fuji engines only?) be sure you do not lose the small metal restrictor fitting that is located INSIDE the return fuel line on some models, just an inch or two away from the last carb.
    Check the parts listing for your model, and look for a clamp around the fuel return line near the carbs. It is used to keep the restrictor in place inside the return line. Without the restrictor (if yours has one), you will have low fuel pressure.

    Another common upgrade (Fuji engines only?) is to replace the single outlet fuel pump with a new triple outlet pump, which ensures adequate fuel pressure and flow, especially to the farthest carb at wide open throttle. The older, single outlet fuel pumps get tired with age, and can starve the carbs for fuel at full power, causing a lean condition in the engine, with damage risk.
    Last edited by K447; 10-01-2007 at 10:15 AM. Reason: Some of the advice applies only to Fuji engined boats, not the domestic powered models.

  7. #7
    PolarisNut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by degg View Post
    Ax.

    Thanks, I Will plan to clean and inspect the carbs.

    Do you know how many hours one should expect a motor to last. 170 doesn't seem like much.

    D
    170 isn't much, if well taken care of. Rod bearing failures are usually caused by one of two things...water ingestion (hydrolock) or moisture contamination from poor storage. 2 strokes need to be run to operating temperature every couple of weeks during the season, or fogged. They need to be heavily fogged in the off season also. I'd be willing to bet it was one of these two things that caused the bearing to fail.

  8. #8
    PolarisNut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Welcome.
    You may want to check the fuel hoses inside the fuel tank. If they are plastic, you may want to replace them now, rather than waiting for them to crack or break while riding.

    Also, if you replace the fuel lines to and from the motor, be sure you do not lose the small metal restrictor fitting that is located INSIDE the return fuel line on some models, just an inch or two away from the last carb.
    Check the parts listing for your model, and look for a clamp around the fuel return line near the carbs. It is used to keep the restrictor in place inside the return line.

    Without the restrictor (if yours has one), you will have low fuel pressure.

    Another common upgrade is to replace the single outlet fuel pump with a new triple outlet pump, which ensures adequate fuel pressure and flow, especially to the farthest carb at wide open throttle. The older, single outlet fuel pumps get tired with age, and can starve the carbs for fuel at full power, causing a lean condition in the engine, with damage risk.
    This is all Fuji stuff, and isn't applicable to the 1050 domestic motor, but is still good advice. I'd replace all the fuel lines, go through the carbs and make sure they are clean. Also take the fuel/water separator apart and make sure it is clean, and water free. Also make sure all of the oil lines are secured and in good shape.

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PolarisNut View Post
    This is all Fuji stuff, and isn't applicable to the 1050 domestic motor...
    Oops.
    I was thinking about the year being early 1990s, and not thinking about it being a domestic motor.
    I'll make a note in the previous post.

  10. #10

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    but i would use a half a can of fogging oil next time you winterize ,

    might even go premix , becuase the oil pump has prolly had it , you can buy the block off kit or i got another low hour pump i can sell ya cheap ,

    always check the piston wash , the marks on top of the pistons every 20-30 hrs ,

    but i thought 170 was maybe a little over midlife it woulda been like buying a car with 100,000 miles i think ,

    i would just keep on the better winterizeation , people have gotten less out of motors ,

    oh ya k447 the fugi stuff and injected motors are the only ones that use fuel pumps , the domestics have presure built up by the pulse lines which is the feed the the return line , it took me a few times of my gas cap poping off violently when filling to figure that one out ,

    but where are you located i love my 96 wouldnt trade it for anything else besides maybe a 200 hp matrix

    i think the now midrange , is becuase our stock jetting is 142 , 142 , 138 , which is the main high speed jets ,

    but the idle and mid range are 58 , 58 , 58 , 58 , 58 , 58, which means its getting the same kinda fuel ratio no matter what rpms ,

    if you wanna very the jets say 32 , 68 , 140 , than go ahead but they are 5-6 dollars a pop , and i dont wanna tell ya wrong and have you burn a piston
    Last edited by Bone1050; 10-01-2007 at 11:19 AM.

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