Thread: Engine Alignment
10-04-2007, 09:01 PM #1
I am having problems with getting the engine aligned. The alignment tool isn't even close to the center of the hole where the hull bearing housing/seal goes. Seems like the bearing would be off center causing it to wear fast. Am I missing something here? the clymer manual is vague agian and I really don't understand it. It is telling me to " Loosen the clamps and remove the drive shaft bearing housing, then reinstall the disassembled bearing housing onto the pump housing then tighten the bolts to 18 ft-lb", but there is no way to bold the bearing housing.. what I did is assemble the pump minus the stub shaft and impeller, then bolt it onto the hull. I then slid the alignment tool through the stator bearings and then I noticed the shaft is way off center in the hull. I'll try to find the camera and take a pic. I'm going to remove the pump and try bolting it on agian I guess if there aren't any other idea's.
10-04-2007, 09:25 PM #2
The alignment tool may not be centered in the through hull hole and is more typical than one would think. But this is not a disaster issue and here's why. The bearing housing seal conforms to the line of the shaft not the through hull fitting it clamps to...why, because it's the last thing you fasten down. When you put the alignment tool through the pump like you did, leave the bearing housing seal off for the moment. As long as the alignment tool isn't hitting/rubbing up against the plastic through hull fitting than you will be ok. Keep pushing the alignment tool till it gets to the engine...how far off is it to the center of the engine coupler? Once you get the engine close to working with the alignment tool, then you can reassemble everything. It doesn't have to be a perfect alignment (although it's nice if it happens), the parts are designed for some mis-alignment. You have the rubber donut in the engine coupler, you have the bumpers on each end of the drive shaft, you have ovaled splines on the drive shaft...all give you some forgiveness. Now back to the bearing housing. When you reassemble everything, just loosely slide it onto the drive shaft. Get everything else put together and tighten all down. The last thing to do is now slide the bearing housing seal down the drive shaft and onto the plastic through hull fitting. Depending on how far from center the drive shaft is from the center of the fitting, the bearing housing will flex and may not be perfectly overlapped all the way around the through hull fitting...meaning that you may have for example a 3/4" overlap on the top of the housing but only 1/2" on the bottom side...this is ok. Then take your clamp and place it as close to the end of the bearing housing as you can, this will let it flex as much as possible...and shouldn't really end up putting that much uneven pressure on the bearings of the housing unit. Hope you followed all that.
Last edited by 32DegH2O; 10-04-2007 at 09:35 PM.
10-04-2007, 09:34 PM #3
ok I think I got that. The alignment tool is I'd say about 1/8" high on the motor. It was tight on the splines when I did a test fit so there really isn't much room for error. I removed the pump and bolted it on again just in case there was something causing it to be crooked, but the tool goes right back to where it was before. It's really close to the edge where the drive shaft bearing housing clamps on.. I'd say 1/16th of an inch from rubbing on the top. It just seemed odd since the shaft was high on the bearing housing and the motor.. so I thought the pump was crooked. I'll mess around with it some more and hopefully get things up to par.
10-04-2007, 09:38 PM #4
You mean 1/16" from hitting the plastic through hull fitting? If so, is that with it pushed into the engine coupler? or does it then come down a bit once it's in the engine coupler?
Last edited by 32DegH2O; 10-04-2007 at 09:48 PM.
10-04-2007, 09:59 PM #5
Well right now I can't even get it into the engine coupler unless I push down on the shaft, which I don't want to do but yeah its 1/16th of an inch from hitting the plastic part that the shaft bearing housing clamps to. I've been trying to turn the wear ring and the stator thinking maybe something not square but it always goes back to the same spot
10-04-2007, 10:00 PM #6
10-04-2007, 10:09 PM #7
well I pushed the shaft into the engine coupler only to get it stuck, and had to remove the pump to get the alignment tool back out. I am going to swap the one motor mount I replaced with a different one and hope that helps with the engine alignment.. as far as the hull hole I don't know what to do about that yet..
10-05-2007, 09:25 PM #8
anyone? I guess I am going to have to just align the engine with the shaft almost rubbing the drive shaft bearing coupler flange.. or maybe I can see how hard it would be to mount the 700 motor and pump into the stand up 550 I picked up, or maybe the old seadoo SP hull. only thing is that this hull is imaculate and a shame to put to waste
10-05-2007, 09:45 PM #9
- Join Date
- Oct 2006
- Cleveland OH
You do know to shim the engine mounts for changing position, right? Remove shims from rear or add to front to lower the coupler. etc...
10-06-2007, 09:32 AM #10
Yeah but I only have 4 .028" shims, so I guess I'm going to have to buy some shim stock and make some more.
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