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  1. #1

    Virage/Pro 1200 Winterize help

    Hello newbie here, have a 2000 Virage carb, 2000 Pro 1200 carb, need to winterize them so far I've got 1. Fuel stabil run for 10 minutes 2. take off plugs spray foggin oil in put plugs back in 3. get all water out of hull 4. take out battery and charge.

    Couple of questions...

    1. With these models do I just off land start them for a few seconds and pump throttle to get out all water out in engine/pipes?

    2. Do I need to antifreeze them?

    3. how much fog oil needed to spray into the plug holes?

    4. Where is the other place that I can fog with the engine running?

    5. After fogging plug holes, do I press the start button to "turn" the engine a couple of times?

    Thanks guys


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Arrow Winterization tips

    Quote Originally Posted by paperbirch View Post
    Hello newbie here, have a 2000 Virage carb, 2000 Pro 1200 carb, need to winterize them so far I've got
    1. Fuel stabil run for 10 minutes (If out of the water, do not run it that long in one go, or you will overheat the jet pump bearings)
    2. take off plugs spray foggin oil in put plugs back in
    3. get all water out of hull
    4. take out battery and charge.
    Couple of questions...
    1. With these models do I just on land start them for a few seconds and pump throttle to get out all water out in engine/pipes? Yes, you can burp a lot of the water out by running them on the trailer for a few seconds, but the best thing is to first get the nose tilted up 10-20 degrees, which ensures that gravity gets the remaining water out.
    2. Do I need to antifreeze them? Not really, as long as you get the water drained out (see above). Some folks do the anti-freeze thing, but please use propylene glycol anti-freeze, not automotive ethylene glycol anti-freeze.
    4. Where is the other place that I can fog with the engine running? Down into the carb throats, spray quickly and deeply into all three, until you stall the engine. Some Flame Arrestor covers have three little plugs you can remove, and spray down through those holes. Do this before you fog into the plug holes.
    3. how much fog oil needed to spray into the plug holes? Not so much that the engine will be unable to turn over because the oil won't compress, but a healthy amount. Loosely tighten the plugs after fogging, to keep stuff out of the cylinders.
    5. After fogging plug holes, do I press the start button to "turn" the engine a couple of times? You can (ground the plug wires off the plugs), with the plugs out, or just turn it over by hand a couple of times (grab the driveshaft coupler behind the motor).
    Thanks guys
    I have attached a Polaris winterization guide.

    It is suggested you store it with a full fuel tank (stabilizer mixed appropriately), to minimize water condensation from the air pocket in the tank.

    Once you have the inside of the hull dried out, some recommend spraying a NON-petroluem based rust protectant spray onto the exterior of the engine surfaces to keep rust at bay (ask at a marine shop). Some of the petroleum based sprays can attack the plastics and wiring insulation, and harden them over time.

    If you can, store the boat in a weather protected area, with the seat opened up a bit to allow air circulation. But you also need to keep creatures from making a winter home in there.

    Clean the boat exterior thoroughly, and wax it if you like.

    Take the time now to carefully look over everything. Look for cracks, loose fitings, anything that is less than 100%. Finding any problems now means you can plan to fix it before next season starts. Same goes for the trailer.

    Lubricate all the points mentioned in your owner's or service manuals, like the jet pump linkages and pivots, steering joints and cables, etc.

    What have I missed?
    Attached Files Attached Files

  3. #3

    Few more details...

    K unclear at this time where my air box is that I have to take off and fog down each throat...? Can someone define a "liberal" amount of fogging oil that is sprayed into plug holes?

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by paperbirch View Post
    K unclear at this time where my air box is that I have to take off and fog down each throat...? Can someone define a "liberal" amount of fogging oil that is sprayed into plug holes?
    Airbox is the red cover on the right side of the photo.

    Some versions of the cover have three plastic plugs in the top cover, and you can spray down those holes, or take the bolts out (don't drop any little parts down into the engine!), then remove the whole top cover, and the metal flame arrestor sheet inside.
    Then spray directly into the carburetor throats (while the engine is running).

    If you have aftermarket flame arrestors, then you might have three separate ones instead of one big one. Same process - take the tops off, so you can spray down into the engine.

    All this has been assuming you do not have a Polaris fogging kit installed.
    If you do have or install a fogging kit, that makes it easier, as you simply activate the fogging kit, which has its own little storage bottle for the fogging oil permanently mounted in the boat, and the engine is fogged without taking the flame arrestor off.

    Once the engine intake has been properly fogged and the engine shut down, a few seconds of fogging spray into each spark plug hole would be plenty. You do not want to "fill" the cylinder with oil, just get the inside "damp" with fogging oil. Some owners put 2-stroke oil into the plug holes, rather than fogging oil, but I suggest you use fogging oil, as it is designed to provide long term corrosion protection in a non-running motor.
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    Last edited by K447; 10-05-2007 at 12:51 PM.

  5. #5
    K thanks, one more thing...I have a 200g bottle of fogging oil, how much can I expect to use on eash motor when foggin the carb throats before it cuts out, thanks.

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by paperbirch View Post
    K thanks, one more thing...I have a 200g bottle of fogging oil, how much can I expect to use on eash motor when foggin the carb throats before it cuts out, thanks.
    If you have a bottle of liquid fogging oil, that is usually used with the permanently installed fogging kits.

    I suppose you could poor/dribble some into the carbs while the motor is running, but I don't know how you would judge how much would be appropriate. You need to not dump so much into any one carb that you pump too much liquid oil into the combustion chamber, which could hydrolically lock the engine, and cause piston and crankshaft damage.

    Perhaps someone who has used the liquid fogging oil to manually fog an engine could advise.

    My suggestion is to buy and install the proper fogging kit in each boat. They are not that expensive, or hard to install. Once the kit is installed, fogging is much easier, and you can do it when you just won't be riding for a while during the summer, and want to be sure the motor is protected.

    There is also aeresol spray fogging oil, which is meant for manual spraying into the carbs. Use the spray if you want to not worry about over fogging with the liquid oil.

  7. #7

    Anti freezing/coolant

    OKay last thing....I was told to keep the boats level when anti freezing....unscrew brass nut on water rail on engine top, screw in hose, crimp hose leading to water box, and start pouring in anti freeze till it comes out the back of the pump on the outside of boat. reattach nut and uncrimp hose. Is this correct? Thanks...also got the enviro freidly coolant!

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