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Thread: spark problems

  1. #1
    gary's Avatar
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    spark problems

    this may be a bit long so bear with me pls.some of you may be familar with my problem and some may not,so ill start at the beggining.

    i have a 97 sltx 1050cc ski,im getting spark to only the front cyl,did all the tests per the manual and found the stator to be at fault.having the old stator/cdi still in the ski i decided to do the update as ive heard threw most everyone that the old stuff had problems and would die sooner or later anyway.

    so update done,still having the same issue,(spark to only the front cyl).so i do a test on the coil pack.book says i should get .35 ohom on the wires and either 1230 or 1520 on the plug wires w/o boots.so test results were 1518 on the plug wires,.001 on the wire leads.

    so im kinda feeling strange about the results as i have spark on the front cyl so i should have got .35,on one of the wire leads.(at least thats what seems logical).

    so as im out of ideas i buy a new coil,if for no other reason just to rule out the coil as the cause.so a new coil comes in and i test it before thinking of an install,results were 1230 on the plug wires(no boots),and .001 on the wire leads.

    now im completely confused,this is a brand new coil,so the thing must work.there's no way i did the test wrong,meter set on 2k scale and did what the books says,i may not be the smartest guy in the world,but i can read and follow directions.

    ideas?

    Gary


  2. #2
    FLjoyrider's Avatar
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    take every component apart, then put it all back together with dialectric grease on every connection.. just a thought

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gary View Post
    this may be a bit long so bear with me pls.some of you may be familar with my problem and some may not,so ill start at the beggining.

    i have a 97 sltx 1050cc ski,im getting spark to only the front cyl,did all the tests per the manual and found the stator to be at fault.having the old stator/cdi still in the ski i decided to do the update as ive heard threw most everyone that the old stuff had problems and would die sooner or later anyway.

    so update done,still having the same issue,(spark to only the front cyl).so i do a test on the coil pack.book says i should get .35 ohom on the wires and either 1230 or 1520 on the plug wires w/o boots.so test results were 1518 on the plug wires,.001 on the wire leads.

    so im kinda feeling strange about the results as i have spark on the front cyl so i should have got .35,on one of the wire leads.(at least thats what seems logical).

    so as im out of ideas i buy a new coil,if for no other reason just to rule out the coil as the cause.so a new coil comes in and i test it before thinking of an install,results were 1230 on the plug wires(no boots),and .001 on the wire leads.

    now im completely confused,this is a brand new coil,so the thing must work.there's no way i did the test wrong, meter set on 2k scale and did what the books says,i may not be the smartest guy in the world,but i can read and follow directions.
    ideas?
    Gary
    You cannot use a 2K scale on the meter to test for 0.35 ohms, you must use a MUCH lower scale, like 2 or 20 ohms full scale.

    0.35 ohms is a very low resistance, so it must be measured carefully. Some cheap meters simply cannot accurately measure such low values.

    Also, when measuring on a low ohms scale, you must first check the meter by touching the probes together, and record what the meter shows. Be sure to rub the meter probes together to get the best contact, and lowest ohm reading. Do this several times, to be sure you are getting consistent ohm readings.

    Now connect the meter probes to the coil you want to test, and make sure you have a very solid electrical connection. Take that reading (again, do it a few times, re-touching the probes to the coil, to be sure you have a soild contact and a consistent number), then SUBTRACT the reading you got with just the meter probes touching each other, and the result is the ohms resistance for that coil test.

    I believe you must also be sure that the coil is not connected to anything else while doing this test (someone correct me if I have missed something).

    And you are checking all three coils individually - correct?

    When checking electrical resistance, you always want to have the meter on the lowest scale that will display the measurement (show the most digits on the display). A reading of 0.347 is way more accurate than a reading of 000.3

    Automatic scaling digital meters normally do this themselves, unless you manually set the range.

  4. #4
    1996 SL900 & SL700 turk0004's Avatar
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    When you tested the stator, what was faulty?

  5. #5
    gary's Avatar
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    i dont have a meter with that small a scale,ill install the new coil and post back on results.

  6. #6

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    you need to get one , i bought mine for 20 $ and it can do that ,

    plus what spark plugs are you useing ? gap ?

    is the battery charged up all the way ?

    i suggest changeing the coil like you are becuase most cdi/stator kits will come with them ,

  7. #7
    gary's Avatar
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    ok new coil installed and still no spark,so cdi,stator,coil,all replaced and new so i know there all good.

    whats left that im not thinking of?woodrift key?ideas?

  8. #8
    1996 SL900 & SL700 turk0004's Avatar
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    No spark at all or just on the front cyl firing?

    did you check to see that you have 12v at the Red/Puple wire @ the CDI? this is a must. while cranking, this voltage must be above 10.5 ~ 11v.

    did you check to see that the kill switch is electrically operational? to do this check for continuity between ground and the blk/ylw wire with it disconnected from the cdi. you should see continuity with no lanyard and open circuit with the lanyard plugged in.

  9. #9
    axgrider73's Avatar
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    Have you tried disconnecting the gray wire coming from the cdi (this disables the rev-limiter) to see if that changes any thing?

    How are you testing for spark?

  10. #10
    gary's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by turk0004 View Post
    No spark at all or just on the front cyl firing?

    did you check to see that you have 12v at the Red/Puple wire @ the CDI? this is a must. while cranking, this voltage must be above 10.5 ~ 11v.

    did you check to see that the kill switch is electrically operational? to do this check for continuity between ground and the blk/ylw wire with it disconnected from the cdi. you should see continuity with no lanyard and open circuit with the lanyard plugged in.
    yes im getting power at the red/purple wire,while cranking the mfd shows 11.4v.

    kill switch is working fine also,i have weak spark at the front cyl,no spark on the other two.

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