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  1. #1

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    IC mod no new holes

    This is simple and easy. I got this idea from reading the manual and looking at the bilge and coolant line flows from ch 9. I then remembered what I had seen posted on here from Diablo. I ran it by a couple of engineers at work and from what I remembered everything said it will work. Preliminary testing shows a success by touching the bypass valve and intake manifold. I ran the ski hard for several miles and the intake manifold and bypass valve were always cool to the touch. I mean ambient air cool, as if the engine was not running cool.

    Next is to pull the hose from the intake and actually feel the air coming from the bypass. Also, testing may prove a throttle valve may be needed on the line going to the top of the IC. Water will take the path of least resistance and it is possible the first pass of the IC flow is reduced because most of the water is going in the top. I do not think this is happening, but until I can test further and actually feel the discharge air I will not know for
    certain.


    Modification is simple. T outlet at bottom and run the original line on the top of the IC to the top of the T.

    Split inlet line with a T and run one line to the top and the other line back to the inlet. Opinions will vary on this next part, but I think it is best to place the T as close to the inlet as possible. I say this because of the potential problem I listed above. You want the first pass to get as much flow as possible, if flow is not adequate basically you are cutting your cooler in half.

    Jason

    If you look close you can see my straight through sitting in the hull wrapped with insulation.
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    Last edited by spaulding; 10-05-2007 at 05:08 PM.


  2. #2
    Robsauto2's Avatar
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    Good idea, I have been looking at these ic ideas for a while. I noticed the hose barb water outlet from the pump to the ic has a somewhat small hole in it, is that the only sorce of cool water in to the ic?

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by Robsauto2 View Post
    Good idea, I have been looking at these ic ideas for a while. I noticed the hose barb water outlet from the pump to the ic has a somewhat small hole in it, is that the only sorce of cool water in to the ic?
    yes, unless you add another line to the top. This was not completely my idea. I borrowed part of it from what diablo posted and just ran it by a few people to make sure I was not overlooking something.

  4. #4
    FZS-T
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    can you give some more detail?? i'll try it tomorrow!

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by kawi250 ryder View Post
    can you give some more detail?? i'll try it tomorrow!
    The last pic shows the new T at the IC outlet. This T gets the old line from the top.

    The new hose is .5" for the inlet and 5/8 for the outlet and to the top.

    Several hose clamps.

    Its simple T the inlet one to the top and one to the original in.

    T the out and move the orignal line down to the bottom T.

  6. #6
    FZS-T
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    can you tell me where do you route the new plastic hose that is connected on the top of the ic?

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by kawi250 ryder View Post
    can you tell me where do you route the new plastic hose that is connected on the top of the ic?
    It runs back to a T from the original inlet. Split the inlet with a T, one line goes to the inlet and one line runs to the top.

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by kawi250 ryder View Post
    can you tell me where do you route the new plastic hose that is connected on the top of the ic?

    The middle picture shows the line running up. What you cant see is the T in the line.

  9. #9
    FZS-T
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    i'll take a look at it tomorrow!! and see whats up thanks a lot for the help

  10. #10
    Hey JWilson my question is if you're getting a new line from one of the inlet hoses coming from the pump to go to the top of the IC. How do you flush the IC when riding in the ocean?

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