10-08-2007, 08:39 PM #1
THAT TIME OF YEAR: Storage and Winterization Procedures & Bulletin
It's unfortuante that we all can't have the liesure of a 12 month riding season. For those of you that don't, take the time to properly care for your 4-tec equipped Seadoo.
**A note to veteran 4-tec owners... It's about that time where most of you need to be flushing out your closed loop cooling systems and replacing the antifreeze. It doesn't last forever, and I'm sure there's plenty of 02-05 4-tec owners still running around on the original and badly abused broken down antifreeze mixture. I know i've been seeing some high hour 3+ year old 4-tecs coming in for service in my shop with some stinky stinky burnt up antifreeze that weren't within spec on a density test.
Put some fuel stabilizer in your gas tank for your last ride of the season, or if you aren't riding again, still add the appropriate amount of stabilizer and swoosh the ski around a bit and mix it up and flush the ski for a few minutes....
The rest is pretty self explanatory, I wont babble on... Check out the attached .pdf file Service Bulletin from BRP outlining the recommended storage and winterization procedures.
Good Luck, and post away if you have any questions along the way!
10-08-2007, 08:51 PM #2
Any recommendations for those that may ride in the warmer afternoons and it drops below freeing at night?
My first thought was to keep the gas topped off, any other recommendations?
10-08-2007, 08:59 PM #3
"topping the gas tank off" isn't really neccessary at all.. fuel stabilizer for prolonged storage is fine. if you will be riding it occassionally, that's fine, no need to keep it topped off all the time, condensation isn't really going to happen or cause any problems in a 15 gallon plastic fuel tank
for those that ride by day, and freeze by night... the only protection you need is against the cold... that has nothing to do with the engine or the fuel or fogging it. Your only concern is protecting the water cooled exhaust and the raw water cooled intercooler... my recommendation is to get a bucket, a small 12V battery mounted to the side of the bucket, and a bilge pump in the bottom of the bucket with wires and aligator clamps on the ends to connect to the battery... your POST-op procedure will be start the ski on the trailer with NO WATER, rev it a little bit and blow some of the exhaust out of the system, then shutdown the engine. now connect the bilge pump to the FLUSH PORT in the back of the ski via a combination of hoses and fittings that turn into the flush adapter... 1/2 gallon of non-tox antifreeze in the bucket and let the bilge pump run until the bucket is empty... that's all
10-08-2007, 10:56 PM #4
10-08-2007, 11:02 PM #5
10-08-2007, 11:08 PM #6
Thank you for the tips.
My intention is to ride til the lakes freeze over or significant ice bergs floating around
10-08-2007, 11:35 PM #7
10-09-2007, 05:31 AM #8
My ski is gonna be kept in a heated basement this winter....
Question is would you still do all the steps in the PDF or are some of them unnecessary seeing as it will be in a heated basement???
I have also considered that if the power of the house fails for an extended period it may drop to below freezing... aka another Rochester snowstorm.... just trying to consider my options...
10-09-2007, 07:32 AM #9
Jaycee if your keeping it in a heated basement(which is badass), just fuel stabil is all youll need to do. And if it got to the point where your ski froze up inside the house from a snowstorm, etc. then you probably died in the house too lol, power would to need to be out for a heck of a long time I think. Good luck!
10-09-2007, 08:06 PM #10
what are your opinions on the E10 ethanol dilemma?
add stabilizer and top off tank, or run it as low as possible, maybe even pump the tank dry???
i will be storing skis for approx 7-8 months outside in NJ...
who is an E10 expert???
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