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  1. #1

    Question 99' GSX sitting 4 yrs

    I'm in the military and have been stationed overseas since Dec. 03'. Before I left the states I drained the gas and ran the ski until it died, but left the oil in the tank. I have the ski stored in an outside building that is not heated. No one has touched it since I left and im worried the engine might be seized up. I return home Dec 07' and I would like your advice as to what actions I should take.


  2. #2
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    The most important thing is did you fog the engine? When the temps drop into the 40's, and then climb every morning into the 60's and 70's, the engine is still at 40 degrees. As the air temp climbs faster than the engine, condensation occurs...inside and out of the block. This is what kills an engine, the constant condensation cycle that happens daily during this kind of weather.

    If it is in a cold climate, did you winterize the engine too?

  3. #3
    Its stored in SW part of VA, we get a little snow but I dont think I did anything to winterize the engine, I just shut off the gas valve and ran the engine until it quit and shut off the oil valve. So I didnt do anything of that sort. What does the term "fogging" the engine mean?
    Last edited by TokyoTitus; 10-13-2007 at 10:22 AM.

  4. #4
    Water4fire's Avatar
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    It means spray the motor in throught the carbs with a fogging oil to lubricate the internals of the engine.

    I bought a xp that sat for two years and it was fine, but this was Texas weather.

    Rust from the condensation that 96xps is talking about is bad. It can cause havok on the internals of the motor.

    If it was mine I would get a can of fogging oil spray into the spark plug holes a very leberal amount and let it sit a second or two then try and crank it over by hand. If it cranks by hand then use the starter with the plugs out. Spray more oil in it and do it angain. I would do this 3-5 times tring to lubricat the internals.
    Then with fresh gas start it. When started spray more lube in the carbs as it runs. Do this on the hose and cyle it for 5 mins about 5 times. Anotherwords run it on the hose for 5 mins and keep spraying lube in the carbs every minute or so. This IMO will help lubricate the crank and stuff.


    BUT it could be so rusted up that it will not turn over. Then you may need to open her up.

    In time a rusted motor will give. It just depends on how long it will last. 10 hours or 40hours. But It will go.... You never store them without fogging oil in the motor.

  5. #5
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TokyoTitus View Post
    Its stored in SW part of VA, we get a little snow but I dont think I did anything to winterize the engine, I just shut off the gas valve and ran the engine until it quit and shut off the oil valve. So I didnt do anything of that sort. What does the term "fogging" the engine mean?
    Wow...ok. Well...you probably have cracked cylinders at the bases, because water sits in there, and if you don't winterize (pour antifreeze into the coolant hose going to the engine) she will crack when it freezes.
    It most defenitely gets cold enough for this to happen in VA...because it happens here in GA.

    On your engine, since you did not fog it, I would pull the head and verify how badly the cylinders are rusted first. Based on that, the crank bearings may or may not have rusted as badly. Then do as Water suggested....but it will probably let go in less than 10 hours..."if" the cylinders are not cracked.

    I bet you wish you would have asked this question before leaving eh?

  6. #6
    I appreciate all of your help, next time I know if its not too late already. Since I dont get back until December do you think it would be a good idea for someone that is there to spray it with "fogging oil" and just let it sit? If the cylinders are cracked im guessing it will run like $hit and die, but if its just rusted up; can I just have it bored out? or are there too many things that would be rusty
    Last edited by TokyoTitus; 10-13-2007 at 11:06 AM.

  7. #7
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Yes, get someone to pull out the spark plugs and spray fogging oil into the cylinders. The crank needs to be sprayed with the engine running, to thoroughly coat the bearings, through the carbs, but I wouldn't advise turning it over or trying to crank it until you pull the head and inspect the cylinders.

    As it stands now...worst case scenerio is all you'll have to do is hone the cylinders, and maybe re-ring. If it is really bad a bore and new pistons may be in order. If the crank bearings are rusted then you'll need a new crank, and new countershaft balancer bearings. All this is cheaper to replace if you don't run it.

    If one or both cylinders are cracked...it will run fine, but just leak like a seive into the hull. The base of the cylinders are where they crack, where they mount to the block.

    Hopefully you will have no cracks and minor surface rust. We'll keep our fingers crossed...

  8. #8
    lextoy's Avatar
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    have a friend who is mechanically inclined, do a couple of things to the ski.
    pull it inside a garage somewhere, get it nice and dry inside the hull.
    open up both plug holes.
    ground both plug wires to posts near black box in rear of ski.
    take the gray cover off the rear of the engine, it covers teh shaft, two plastic wing nuts.
    get a can or two of aero kroil, or pb blaster., spray 20sec. into each plug hole.
    now try to turn the shaft by hand, you can use a vice grip and a rag to protect teh shaft, try to turn the shaft 2 or 3 revolutions. does it turn hard or easy?? if it doesnt turn. put plugs in finger tight and let sit overnight and try again the next day. NEVER TRY TO START THE SKI!!!
    assuming it turns, hand crank it a few revolutions every day, and add new kroil or PB every day, maybe 5 sec per plug hole. always put plugs in when its sitting to seal out air and moisture but do not start!!
    if it spins real easy by hand, after 5 days of this procedure, hook up a battery and with the plugs OUT, and plug wires GROUNDED, put the lanyard on the DES post, listen for the TWO beeps and, spin over the engine for 3-5 seconds, put a rag over the plug holes as all the cruddy oil will be shooting out!!
    repeat 3 times. give the starter a minute or two to cool down.
    add fresh kroil or pb, spin again 2-3 times.
    after nothing is coming out of plug holes, and it is spinnig easy and free,
    put a set of new plugs in tight and crank with plug boots still grounded.
    if compression strokes sound ok then add 5 gallons of new gas with 13oz of oil mixed in it, to the fuel tank. remove plugs and add a shot glass of premix fuel to each plug hole. put plugs back on
    put plug boots on plugs
    open fuel shut off switch and crank for 5 second bursts, after every few cranks let starter rest a few minutes.
    it might fire up immediately it might take a few tries. if it doesnt make any attempt to start check spark. then add new fuel to plug holes.
    if it starts ,as gently as possible use the throttle to keep it running, let it idle 1 minute, then shut it off.
    you cannot run longer than 1 minute without attaching a water hose to flush fitting and cooling engine while running.
    then theres alot more to do if it actually will run.
    take it out side, attach a hose to teh flush fitting, start the ski again.
    then turn on the water, you have to start the ski BEFORE you turn on the water, you also have to turn off the water BEFORE you stop the ski.
    do not let ski run for more than 3-4 minutes on the hose.
    that is enough time to check if theres any water shooting out anywhere its not supposed to be inside the engine compartment.
    if theres no leaks. good.
    i would drain all the old oil, from teh oil tank and add fresh oil. suction it out the fill tube or pull the hose off the bottom of the oil tank and drain it that way. change the oil fiter while you are at it and make sure theres no air bubbles in the oil lines or new filter when you refill. usually its possible to fill the line below the filter by hand then fill the filter by hand then fill the line above the filter by hand before attaching it to the bottom of the tank again.
    check and clean the fuel filter now while we are in there.
    recharge or replace the ski battery.
    run ski every day for 3-4 minutes on the hose.
    slight throttle blips to help loosen the rings.
    if you can get on it and ride it take it out for a test ride, even 15 minutes of easy cruising would be good.
    take it nice and easy, you just want to warm it up and test if the carbs are still good, does it rev up normally, is the throttle response clean, no hesitations, stalling etc.
    if it runs good ok, if not it might need a carb rebuild.
    after first ride, check the compression in both cylinders.
    as you break it in again, the compression #'s should improve or hold steady after every tank of gas.
    you wil probably need to properly winterize until spring. add stabil to the tank, run ski for a few minutes on the hose to get stabil thru the carbs.
    flush ski with antifreeze, and fog the engine via airbox.
    then pop the plugs and add a 3 sec of fogging oil to each cylinder, crank one more time with plugs out, but boots grounded, then put plugs in tight and put away till spring.
    store battery out of ski and use a battery tender.

  9. #9
    lextoy's Avatar
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    if you want post your progress, step by step, we can walk you through any problems that arise.
    in my opinion , you can try the procedure above before you pull the head, if it was stored inside , someplace dry and relatively insulated, there may not be anything bad inside the engine. temp gradients in a shelter arent that dramatic to cause continuous condensation every day.
    you can inspect the plugs the first time you remove them, way before you even start teh ski.
    are they rusty? corroded? or look pretty clean?
    you can also pull off a rave valve and shine a flashlight down the rave slot to inspect the cylinder wall.
    if these two inspections look clean, you are probably.
    if you wanna rebuild now go ahead. but you can try running it likei posted above, and see if its ok... worst case you gotta rebuild in 20-40 hrs.
    lots of people have to rebuild from all kinds of other problems, water ingestion, bad carbs, etc. nobody rebuilds before they blow up
    if you are smart, you run it and check all teh systems for good condition and prevent a rebuild altogether.

  10. #10
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lextoy View Post
    temp gradients in a shelter arent that dramatic to cause continuous condensation every day.
    Dude...you are full of crap. Any sealed shelter is going to have more of a temperature swing due to the lack of outside ventilation. Any building, especially a metal one...will heat up quickly once the sun hits it.

    I've left my 96 XP in my insulated completely dry garage for 3 weeks and developed surface rust on the cylinders. This is with temps dropping into the low 50's nightly.

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