Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 18
  1. #1

    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Alabama Gulf Coast
    Posts
    206

    95 slt 750 almost ready

    Some may remember from july when I posted the PTO cyl melt down. Well after getting all my road rides back in shape I finally got time to actually wrench on my toy . Thanks to everyone for all the help with parts,info,cheerleading etc. not only for me but what I've gained from everyone elses posts. I have taken most advice to heart and followed thru with it. New tirple out fuel pump. Thanks Zig. Good used cyl/piston. Thanks xlint. Replaced all fuel lines remembering to put that restrictor back in the return line thanks to all the green hulk reading I've done. Opened the carbs and found them clean as a whistle including the little filters inside. Have a good fuel selector soon on the way from jaaba. New battery is charging at 2 amps as I type. Call me foolish (self admitted) but I like the idea of filling the gas tank and filling the oil tank so I kept the oil injection in place. Also, I did not heed the advice to open and clean the cases. (probably a mistake but I am a risk taker) I am at the point of starting this baby up but I have a couple of questions before I can. I did not mark the fuel lines at the tank so I need to know which is the reserve and which is run. Also, this boat has sat up for several years without being touched. I am going to start with some premix but not sure what ratio I should use with the inj. still hooked up. Should I turn the engine over without plugs to allow the fuel and oil pump to prime before I put the compression to it? I'll be posting pics soon of my lessons learned. Thanks, Tom


  2. #2
    Hey bro, congrats!!! I was in your shoes about 4 months ago, and it was a blast. On the fuel sender, I thiiiiiiink if you look really close on top of the fuel sender, you might see small lettering indicating which one is which. Then it's just a matter of following each hose to see what it goes to, and connecting to the proper place. Could be wrong...

    On the first start, I'd get a good prime in there first instead of letting it crank over dry forever. Using a cheap primer bulb from wally world I primed my fuel system beforehand. Since your still using the oil injection you're gonna need to prime that sucker up too, but since I'm a premix convert I'll let someone else suggest how to get that going. I will say that it's sometimes pretty inconvenient not being able to just fill up the tank straight from the pump, but it's worth the piece of mind that my motor is ALWAYS getting it's oil when I premix in a gas can. Had to say it...

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Alabama Gulf Coast
    Posts
    206

    premix for start up/mfd is on

    Thanks Mystahagy. I will pick up a primer bulb for the fuel this AM.

    As for the mix ratio, I guess I'll just start-up with a 50:1 and hope for the best. I was hoping someone had been here before and could tell me what they used but I'm not getting any feed back.

    I bumped the starter yesterday to check for good connection and the MFD came on but it was still on this AM. Is this normal?

    I will probably live to regret the oil pump decision but I can take "We told you so" with the best of them.

  4. #4
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Campbell, Ca.
    Posts
    14,100
    +1
    105
    Quote Originally Posted by 1stpolaris View Post
    Thanks Mystahagy. I will pick up a primer bulb for the fuel this AM.

    As for the mix ratio, I guess I'll just start-up with a 50:1 and hope for the best. I was hoping someone had been here before and could tell me what they used but I'm not getting any feed back.

    I bumped the starter yesterday to check for good connection and the MFD came on but it was still on this AM. Is this normal?

    I will probably live to regret the oil pump decision but I can take "We told you so" with the best of them.
    If you assembled the pistons/rings with a good assembly lube you can also just keep dripping a little fuel/oil mixture into the carbs, it will start pretty damn quick and if the fuel system is correct it will start drawing fuel to the pump and carbs pretty quickly (I haven't needed one yet but I like to have a fire extinguisher on hand-just in case).
    With the stock injection system in place and NOT primed you will not be getting oil to the cylinders. I will usually start the engine with 1/4 tank of fuel/oil mixed at 40:1 and let the injection system prime. A little smokey but very safe!!!
    Just the MFD clock is on correct?
    The battery was still charged even with this small drain correct?
    As for the oil pump, I hope you at least installed a new pump??

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Alabama Gulf Coast
    Posts
    206

    Oil mix

    Thanks for the reply ph2o. I will start with 40 to 1 and go from there.
    The mfd was on clock only this AM, and the battery still showed charged but it just seemed odd that it wouldn't go off all together eventually.

    No I didn't install a new oil pump. Go ahead and call me an idiot. If I should decide to go with premix, why do I need to remove the pump rather than just plug the lines in and out? Does the pump piston get its lube from the oil flowing through it?

    Thanks Again, Tom

  6. #6
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Campbell, Ca.
    Posts
    14,100
    +1
    105
    Quote Originally Posted by 1stpolaris View Post
    Thanks for the reply ph2o. I will start with 40 to 1 and go from there.
    The mfd was on clock only this AM, and the battery still showed charged but it just seemed odd that it wouldn't go off all together eventually.

    No I didn't install a new oil pump. Go ahead and call me an idiot. If I should decide to go with premix, why do I need to remove the pump rather than just plug the lines in and out? Does the pump piston get its lube from the oil flowing through it?

    Thanks Again, Tom
    I prefer to leave the pumps on but make sure I change them often, an oil failure is pretty ugly.

    On the pump I think it was determined they would lock up without lubrication from the reservoir.

  7. #7
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Cleveland OH
    Posts
    17,330
    +1
    31
    I'm with Al on this. Dribble some 40:1 premix down the carb throats to get it all primed quickly. We remove the oil pump to prevent a possible issue. No need to have a part moving that does nothing anymore. Good luck with it.

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Alabama Gulf Coast
    Posts
    206

    She runs!!

    So I used a primer bulb to get the fuel system filled from the tank where I had mixed 2 gallons of 40:1. I left the flame arrestor off so I could see if the oil was flowing. It was but not as I would have expected. Only oozed out of the fittings and ran down the inside wall of the carb throats. Normal? Anyway, cranked engine over less than 5 seconds and vroom! Idle seemed a little low and was running kind of rough. Got the water on and it seemed to settle down a bit. Water hook up is on the water bar on mine. The mag cyl got too hot to touch so I shut it down and grabbed an infra red thermometer for comparison. After 15 or so mins of cool down I fired her back up, turned on the water and again mag hot.

    166*F on the mag,95*F in the cntr., and 90*on the pto.

    Just for grins, I removed the water "in" line from the fitting at the rear of the ski and put the flush fitting in there. I then connected the water hose there and restarted. This time,all three temps were within 2-3* of each other at 92-95. This tells me I should plumb for flushing on the intake line rather than the out where the factory flush is. That kind of temp difference can't be good for it.

    On the oil pump, I've not convinced myself yet wether it should stay or go but I do have about two gallons to decide.

    By the way the rear connector on the tank is the reserve line and the front connection is the primary.

  9. #9
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Cleveland OH
    Posts
    17,330
    +1
    31
    Mag is always hot when running on the flush kit. It's really meant to back flush the system, not to run out of water, but it does work. I always use the intake hose for running out of water, as it does keep cyls cooler. I can't comment on oil flow as I removed mine and went premix as soon as I got it. It does inject the least oil at idle and should flow more as the throttle is opened up. Now keep an eye on the piston wash , so you don't have another bad piston in the future.

  10. #10
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Campbell, Ca.
    Posts
    14,100
    +1
    105
    Some use plier clamps on the exit hose , it'll keep water in the system and reach that MAG cylinder which of course should keep it cooler.
    Like xlnt stated, it's really not designed for any type of prolonged running condition so try to keep it brief.

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. fuel primer for 95' slt 750
    By xplayer2885 in forum Polaris How To & FAQs
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 08-03-2008, 09:13 AM
  2. 95 SLT 750 drive coupler
    By SharkCrazy in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 06-26-2007, 11:12 PM
  3. 95 slt 750 hard start
    By tlbailes in forum Polaris How To & FAQs
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 06-08-2007, 12:18 AM
  4. TDR water box for 95 slt 750
    By xplayer2885 in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 01-01-2007, 12:25 PM
  5. 95 slt 750 wont charge
    By The Joker in forum Polaris How To & FAQs
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 12-13-2006, 03:55 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •