Thread: GPRXP Midshaft bracket
11-02-2007, 10:31 PM #1
GPRXP Midshaft bracket
Goal: Provide a water feedthru for the driveshaft.
- Modified GPRXP midshaft.
- 1/8" aluminum L-bracket.
- GPR bearing feedthru.
- Hose adaptor for bracket.
- Press the modified midshaft into the GPR bearing assembly all the way to the wrench cut-outs on the shaft.
- If you test fit this assembly in the ski, it should be just clear of the intake grate shelf by at least 1/8".
- Weld, or bolt the hose adaptor onto the L-bracket.
- Bolt the bearing feedthru/midshaft assembly onto the L-bracket.
- Run a grease fitting to the assembly.
- Let dry and install during engine placement.
11-02-2007, 10:33 PM #2
Prepping the hull to accept the bracket.
- Use a torch, and heat up the epoxy, till it turns a black crusty color. DO NOT LEAVE IT ALONE... Avoid the VAPORS. Deadly.
- Peal off the burnt epoxy.
- Sand the octogon inserts flat.
11-02-2007, 10:53 PM #3
09-19-2008, 08:08 PM #4
Is this material to thick for the mid-shaft support ? It measures just over 1/2" I wanted to get the correct width cut (ski not @ home yet).
09-19-2008, 08:10 PM #5
09-21-2008, 01:20 PM #6
11-11-2008, 11:48 PM #7
Mid shaft Bracket Question.
Excuse my lack of knowledge on this topic but as I have just started work on a GPR conversion, can anyone tell me why I cant change the drive line sealing system for a Rad 4 Racing one using a one piece drive shaft from the Yamaha Skat 14 vein pump to the seadoo out put spline?? Then I am thinking I can just run a through hull fitting direct to the hose and no brg carrier required.
Hit me with the reasons as I think I am going to have a million more questions as the progress gets started. `
11-12-2008, 07:08 AM #8
A few things here...
The drive shaft from a Yamaha skat pump is effectively no different than a stock driveshaft from a gpr with length and splines.
The end of it has a capture for a bearing, versus the screw on Yamaha shaft, but they work out to the same length. You can do something like Hydrojunkie has done by cobbling together a Yamaha driveshaft with an adaptor for the SD pump, and create an adaptor to make the SD pump work.
It won't replace the conversion shaft. Remember you are hooking a SD engine with a crown spline drive system to a Yamaha that used a screw-on 5 finger coupler. It's not a direct swap.
The bearing seal you posted is very similar to what I'm testing now...but of the correct size, for the conversion Mid-shaft. The bracket isn't even necessary...just a water seal is. You are on the right track, but the SEAL dimensions are wrong for a Yami system... and it's obscenely EXPENSIVE.
There are probably at least 2 viable ways to make a conversion shaft, and at least a hundred ways to make a single system.
11-12-2008, 07:09 AM #9
12-23-2008, 07:40 PM #10
question, are you guys using 4200/5200 to seal the the midwall triangle piece to the hull? Or a rubber gasket? I'm just thinking that water will see this plate and can leak thru. So....I'll prolly use some 4200 to shoot inbetween the plate and triangle peice...
I could make a gasket, but I'm at a point where I already mounted my plate holding the intermediate shaft and the motor is aligned. I can get the hose and traingle piece in there, but its tight. If I use a rubber gasket, it may tear....but.....we'll see. Mayne I can work some 4200 in there with an art brush, then snug it up to the plate
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