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  1. #1
    100 MILES OF HEAVEN AND I AM SMACK IN THE MIDDLE KEYZBUM's Avatar
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    cdi #?? what means what?

    i found the #"s on the pro 785 cdi i have on ebay
    was wondering how do i check what year it is ?
    thanks
    mattman
    ##### 17520121 #####"""""
    f8t34374 8129
    Last edited by KEYZBUM; 11-04-2007 at 02:46 PM.


  2. #2
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    78Z97 78Z= 785 97= 1997
    Other numbers on mine are
    17520201
    F8T34372 7820

  3. #3
    100 MILES OF HEAVEN AND I AM SMACK IN THE MIDDLE KEYZBUM's Avatar
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    doh

    man i must be sleeping (good think i'm at work and not on the water )
    bottom #"s 78z98a == WOW ITS A 98 live and learn
    dont 98's have better a better curve or something ??
    thank you and all
    mattman

  4. #4
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    Yes off the top of my head. 1997 34 deg at 3200 1998-2000 36 deg at 3000 12 deg at 7500 This might be wrong do a search it all here somewhere.

  5. #5
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    CDI info
    Danny, etc,,,

    Sorry I haven't been able to keep up with your orders, e-mails, etc this week, as I have been really swamped here..... I apologize for the delay.

    The 1998 - 2000 785 CDI has 2 degrees more initial timing (36 degrees) and the same fining timing and rev limiter.. If you cut the wire (loop) it will give you approx 100-200 more Rpm before it hits the rev limiter. The most important difference between the two CDI's is the exhaust valve opening, as the Z98 and newer open the valves 2mm higher. Be sure to re-set your valve cables after installation... The must "click" or lightly tap at the bottom of the stroke, but you don't want any extra freeplay in the cable... If they dont come fully to the bottom, you will lose torque & accelleration. If they are too loose, you will lose peak Rpm. An average 785 Pro (any year) shold turn between 7600-7800 Rpm.

    I really have never been impressed with the rear pump brace, and didn't really fine it necessary to install, but you need to "foam" the rear of the hull under the footwells. (available at Watcon of course) to keep the stress cracks from forming. The 1997 hull is my personal favorite, but it was very light and needs foaming ASAP..

    The "left turn" bog is your friend, as it tells you your jetting is too rich.. The "right turn" bog tells you your jetting is too lean.. (see tuning tips).

    The 1997 pipe plumbing was good for performance, but Polaris changed it for 1998 because the plumbing didn't feed any water to the stingers/waterbox below approx 3500 Rpm, and customers were melting stinger hoses in the "no wake" areas.. There should be an updated plumbing system on Greenhulk somewhere. I used the 1997 water routing for racing, and the 1998 system for recreational riders.

    Don't try to prop the 785 too tall, as they need to rev high to get off the timing curve in the mid Rpm.. For a STOCK boat, a 12-17 is the place to start..

    The 1997 carb circuitry was completely different internally, and the OEM jetting is way different so be careful if somebody is suppliying you with jetting specs. 1998 & newer carbs were slightly better for accelleration, but not enough to warrent purchasing the new ones.

    The 785 Pros were awesome, and I really enjoyed them..
    Sorry for the long post, I hope you find this useful.

    Regards,
    Randy
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  6. #6
    100 MILES OF HEAVEN AND I AM SMACK IN THE MIDDLE KEYZBUM's Avatar
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    I Need To Refresh My Page From Time ----2 Slow
    Thanks
    Last edited by KEYZBUM; 11-04-2007 at 03:27 PM. Reason: TOO SLOW ----HE BEAT ME TO IT--- BIG SHOCK THERE

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