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  1. #1
    daverxp4's Avatar
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    need advice for splash guard install

    almost finished the install on a ppg style splash guard i did it according to jettrim instruction and did a search on the forum.

    jettrim says use 3/16*3/4 i used 3/16*5mm is it too short because i dont see the pot rivet come out from the back original oem one on the rest of the rub rails come out from the back end? also added extra holes and rivets everywhere.should i ditch the rivets? i used contact cement glue also.

    as for the front bumper there is a buletin #2004-17 with special screws any body install these with the splash guard (as per ppg istalation)

    the front bumper has two seperate pieces i need to keep both and cut away the bottom part as i did the bottom of the side rub rails.

    do i need to put any glue or something else on the exposed fiberglass where i cut the bottom rub rail?

    thanks

    also received today the rotax thru hull exaust i think i will get it istalled at the dealer


  2. #2
    daverxp4's Avatar
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    anybody please

  3. #3

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    I used rivets the first time, it lasted two hrs. Now I have 3-16s screws W/ washers loctited every 2 inches and yes I used glue... Good luck. Signed the one man wrecking team

  4. #4
    daverxp4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jawz
    I used rivets the first time, it lasted two hrs. Now I have 3-16s screws W/ washers loctited every 2 inches and yes I used glue... Good luck. Signed the one man wrecking team
    thanks for the advise i know its not easy to answer question for everybody.

    so i think i will redo it all over, dammmmm**********t where did you put glue? and what kind ?and 16s w/washers loctite thats with bolts right?

    so if you don't mind explain the order
    srew+washer then rub rail and splash guard throuh fiberglass hull another washer and screw?

    or screw through rub rail then washer,then splash guard through fiberglass etc....

    thank you

  5. #5
    i did this do you not find that it pushes the rub rail right to the edge of the hull is this normal and does the fibreglass thats exposed need protecting?

  6. #6

    advice for spalsh guard install

    I put one on a 2000 SeaDoo XP and it was a female dog to do but I learned a method. Drill out the rivets holding the front of the rubrail for the length you need for the splach gaurd and a little more so you can tuck it under the rub rail. The rub rail is hard to flex so you'll need the extra rivet removal a little down the side of the hull. Slide the guard under the rub rail to get it in position and drill holes at the old rivet holes in the rub rail and through the guard to align everything for riveting the whole mess back together. Go to an auto body supply shop. They have some nice long and beefy rivets but you will need a big rivet gun instead of those small cheesy ones. BUT get some epoxy and glue the guard in place on the hull and under the positioned rub rail. Put the rivets in place through the rub rail and guard where you drilled the holes. If they're long enough you should be able to feel them behind the lip of where the 2 hull halfs were joined at the area behind the rub rail. Rivet it down starting fron the front and work your way back to the sides of the hull. Make sure to reach behind the lip mentioned above to ensure the rivets went though enough. Even if they didn't make it all the way, if they've mashed behind the lip the friction in the hull lip should hold with the epoxy.

  7. #7
    After trying different length rivets with and w/o Rubber Cement "glue" on my (previous) HX and 2 previous XPL's I realized they simply wont hold up in the surf and I hate to do the same job twice so.......

    Now I only use 10-24 x 1" SST Buttonhead Bolts and SST Nylock Nuts spaced in between and including all the old rivet holes. The Buttonheads allow the rub rail to lay flat in the channel (cosmetics). Use SST fender washers against the backside of the Spray Deflector to prevent the Nylock nuts from ripping through the SD.

    A certain amount of SST Washer (nipping a small bite of the curvature) and Fastener Bolt length customizing with a Dremel cut off wheel or small grinder is needed to get the bolts to the correct length and to lay flat as possible depending on the position around the rub rail.

    *Any* fastener or SD is under a huge amount of hydro stress on the backside / underside of the deflector when running through serious chop/wakes. This is what makes them tear out when using wimpy install hardware / methods.

    I no longer find it neccessary to use glue at all.

    I found that if you start from the front nose center bolt hole (drilled) and use some duct tape to temporarily hold the right and left lengths of the rest of the SD under the edges of the bond line you can go right/left/right/left installing the fasteners around the perimeter and it'll lay in nice and flat w/o bowing out between the fastener points.

    SST fasteners and other hardware is available from www.mcmaster.com for more than fair pricing.


    Another tip for when you get ready to re-install the rub rail back in the channel is to warm it for 10 minutes @ 150' in an oven to get it to lay flat in the rub rail channel and use a rubber mallet it persuade it to your will.

    This is an "all-day" job to do it right, your finger tips will feel the pain by the end of the day.

    .............. enjoi !

    DvD
    Last edited by David_HX_RXP; 12-20-2008 at 03:24 PM. Reason: x tra info

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