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  1. #1

    Virage TX need help!!

    I have two virage tx skis year 2000 with 40 hours. After being hit by a hard wave the ski begins to act up. sputtering, sounds like it wants to stall / missfiring not sure, plus the tach and the spedo are not working, yet the display still shows time and volts. Get back to shore pull seat and puff of smoke comes out. The wire harness that leads to the display is burnt out. I jumped the red and the green wire and now the ski does not want to start. I hit the rest button, got the display back with tach and spedo, inside box was not wet. Does anyone one have any ideas?


  2. #2
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    Hi shlok, WELCOME to the Green Hulk Forums!!

    For the non start,
    Check that you have 10.5 at the battery while cranking, it may be weak.
    Check ground cables.
    Test the stator and make sure it's O.K.
    Last edited by ph2ocraft; 11-08-2007 at 01:06 AM. Reason: Spelling

  3. #3
    axgrider73's Avatar
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    I would also like to welcome you to the Green Hulk.

    As far as the MFD going blank after a big wave, I have had the some thing happen to my Virage twice this summer. It put the ski into limp mode, and limits the rpms. I am not really sure what the cause is. I have checked all of the connections, fuses, etc. It has always came back on after about a 1/2 hour.

    Check the stuff that Ph2ocraft mentioned and fix the burnt wires. My guess is a bad stator.

    There is a manual in the Tech Section for the '02 models, but I would bet that most of the info will apply to your ski. It might be worth checking out.

    Let us know what you find.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shlock View Post
    I have two virage tx skis year 2000 with 40 hours.
    After being hit by a hard wave the ski begins to act up. sputtering, sounds like it wants to stall / missfiring not sure, plus the tach and the spedo are not working, yet the display still shows time and volts.
    Get back to shore pull seat and puff of smoke comes out. The wire harness that leads to the display is burnt out. I jumped the red and the green wire and now the ski does not want to start.
    I hit the rest button, got the display back with tach and spedo, inside box was not wet.
    Does anyone one have any ideas?
    Does the starter motor crank the engine when you try to start it?
    Do you have spark during cranking?
    Exactly what happens when you try to start?

  5. #5
    Well after I jumped the red/purple and yellow wires that burnt in the harness coming from the stator the display came back. The ski does not start, when you hit the start button it tries to kick over and then I hear a clicking sound comming from the either the starter selonid or from inside the power box. When I test the voltage the goes into the starter selonid it is more than 12v. when you hit the start button the lead that comes off gives less that 10v. Could this be a problem/ how can I test? I opened the power box and discovered that the red/purple wires are connected to the the ignition controller, the reg/rect and the 12v relay/ reset button in the box. could any of these gone bad thus causing the harness comming from the stator to burn?

  6. #6
    Well after I jumped the red/purple and yellow wires that burnt in the harness coming from the stator the display came back. The ski does not start, when you hit the start button it tries to kick over and then I hear a clicking sound comming from the either the starter selonid or from inside the power box. When I test the voltage the goes into the starter selonid it is more than 12v. when you hit the start button the lead that comes off gives less that 10v. Could this be a problem/ how can I test? I opened the power box and discovered that the red/purple wires are connected to the the ignition controller, the reg/rect and the 12v relay/ reset button in the box. could any of these gone bad thus causing the harness comming from the stator to burn?

  7. #7
    axgrider73's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shlock View Post
    When I test the voltage the goes into the starter selonid it is more than 12v. when you hit the start button the lead that comes off gives less that 10v. Could this be a problem/ how can I test?
    Test the battery voltage with a volt meter while cranking. If it is indeed below 10 volts, the CDI will not fire correctly. Try charging/replacing the battery and retest.

    I still think it would be worth while to test the stator. It's an easy test that only requires a volt/ohm meter and a 9v battery. The stator testing procedure can be found in the Tech Section, under Domestic Electrical.

    Keep us updated on your progress.

    -Rob

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shlock View Post
    ...virage tx... year 2000 with 40 hours. After being hit by a hard wave the ski begins to act up. sputtering, sounds like it wants to stall / missfiring not sure, plus the tach and the spedo are not working, yet the display still shows time and volts.
    Get back to shore pull seat and puff of smoke comes out.
    The wire harness that leads to the display is burnt out.
    I jumped the red and the green wire and now the ski does not want to start.
    I hit the rest button, got the display back with tach and spedo, inside box was not wet. Does anyone one have any ideas?
    Quote Originally Posted by Shlock View Post
    Well after I jumped the red/purple and yellow wires that burnt in the harness coming from the stator the display came back.
    The ski does not start, when you hit the start button it tries to kick over and then I hear a clicking sound comming from the either the starter selonid or from inside the power box.
    When I test the voltage the goes into the starter selonid it is more than 12v. when you hit the start button the lead that comes off gives less that 10v. Could this be a problem/ how can I test?
    I opened the power box and discovered that the red/purple wires are connected to the the ignition controller, the reg/rect and the 12v relay/ reset button in the box.
    could any of these gone bad thus causing the harness comming from the stator to burn?
    When you say "jumped", do you mean you have spliced in a section of replacement wire?

    From your description so far, it is not clear what actually shorted out. You have burned wires, but why did they burn? How badly did they burn?

    A hard hit on the water can cause the wire harnesses to move and rub, especially where they are not fully strapped down. Have you found a place where the wire insulation might have become cut or worn through, before the problem actually happened?

    You obviously have damage to the wire harness, so not only do you need to trace and correct every broken or damaged wire, but you also need to figure out what electrical components have been damaged, if any.

    It is also possible that the battery now needs charging, since you have been trying to get the motor running. Be sure the battery is fully charged, so that you are not getting any misleading diagnosis just because the battery isn't 100%.

    Check the ground connections from the battery, electrical box, etc.

    When the trouble first began, did you shut the engine off, then restart, before heading back to shore, or did the motor stay running the entire time?
    I am wondering if the starter motor has been burned out, if it engaged and then didn't release (because the wiring was shorted somewhere) while you were on the water.

    It is going to take some time to fully diagnosis and repair this, as you do NOT want to get it "mostly fixed", and have it later die on the water for some overlooked electrical issue that was not quite right.

  9. #9
    Thank You
    When I say jumped I pulled the wire out of the burnt harness and added wire. This is the harness that comes from the stator going to the electrical box. The one wire is red/purple and the other is yellow. I have tested the batt and it is good and I do have it hooked to a charger so I do not think that is it.

    What I need to know is if the harness would burn because the regulator/rect is not working properly?

    When I had the problem on the water I left the engine running for fear of it not restarting. I got back to the dock and shut it off and waited a bit ang it started ok. So I started to poke around and pulled the seat and that is when I saw the harness smokeing. So I pulled it apart and saw the burnt wires, put it together and from then on it has not started.

    Just getting a little worried because they are not winterized and it is getting cold with no way to start the engine there is most likely water still inside.

    The batt putt 12+ volts to the starter selonid, but the other side of the selonid that goes to the starter motor is less than 10v. Is this something to look at?

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shlock View Post
    Thank You
    When I say jumped I pulled the wire out of the burnt harness and added wire. This is the harness that comes from the stator going to the electrical box. The one wire is red/purple and the other is yellow. I have tested the batt and it is good and I do have it hooked to a charger so I do not think that is it.

    What I need to know is if the harness would burn because the regulator/rect is not working properly?

    When I had the problem on the water I left the engine running for fear of it not restarting. I got back to the dock and shut it off and waited a bit ang it started ok. So I started to poke around and pulled the seat and that is when I saw the harness smokeing. So I pulled it apart and saw the burnt wires, put it together and from then on it has not started.

    Just getting a little worried because they are not winterized and it is getting cold with no way to start the engine there is most likely water still inside.

    The batt put 12+ volts to the starter selonid, but the other side of the solenid that goes to the starter motor is less than 10v. Is this something to look at?
    Getting the water out; If you can safely tip the nose of the trailer up fairly steeply, say 30-40 degrees, then most of the water in the engine will be drained out. At least 20 degrees should get most of it out.

    There may be some water that remains in the exhaust water box, but tipping the nose up high is about all you can do, unless you want to pull the water box out of the boat, and poor the water out.

    Somebody on here has previously suggested hooking a wet-dry shop vac to the exhaust outlet on the hull, then holding the throttle and choke open while running the vacuum. You might draw some fuel into the engine (and the vacuum cleaner) from the carbs, but it might also pull some of the water out of the exhaust, if the vacuum is strong enough. Be careful you don't ignite the vacuum motor with fuel fumes from the carbs!

    Another option is to find someplace that doesn't freeze, and put the boat in there until you get this problem sorted enough to winterize in the normal fashion.

    I suggest you review the stator specs for your engine and follow the guidelines for testing the stator with a multi-meter, to see if you found all the damaged wires.

    BTW, when you are testing for voltages, are you using the engine block, or the actual battery negative post, for the black meter probe? Be sure the electrical system ground connections are good, especially between the engine case and the battery.

    I don't know whether a bad regulator/rectifier could cause the damage you have there. Usually those electronic components are not affected by impact (other than connector contacts getting loose, which I would not think would cause a short circuit), so I would focus on the wiring and things that are mechanically affected by the boat's ride motions.

    BTW, I still suspect that the starter or solenoid has gone bad (maybe both). If the starter was still good, a direct connection across the solenoid contacts should cause the engine to crank smartly. A bad starter can drag down the battery voltage (even with a charged battery), and then the EMM won't spark properly.

    The starter may not have caused the problem, but it may have been overheated or stressed by whatever else went bad.

    It is also possible that the battery has been internally damaged (or it is just old enough that these other issues are masking a less than 100% good battery), so charging it may not bring it fully back to life.

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