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  1. #1
    sea~smith sea~smith's Avatar
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    My jet pump! lets do this thing

    Ok the impeller tool FINALLY arrived, so I got to tackle the jet pump seizure. I have taken pictures for as far as I could get, but I have hit a problem. I think the heat that was produced in the bearing housing fused the inner race of the bearing to the bearing spacer (I have the part indicated by my finger). What do you guys think? At this stage I am going to replace the stub shaft, and I might as well replace the stator as well, its a 6 vein SS.. I rolled my drive shaft along a flat surface, and it seems perfect, as well as the splines. I have bought a new impeller also. I bet the stator is out of round and that the stub shaft isnt true.

    thoughts?
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  2. #2
    sea~smith sea~smith's Avatar
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    more pictures

    Here are a couple more picture, the bearing is clearly destroyed, the little seal on the bearing was just chilling by itself when I managed to get the seals off. Doesnt look like there was water intrusion from the impeller side, the oil was in fine shape, not contaminated.
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  3. #3
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    Knock,Hammer all the guts out of the stator and see where you are at. I have some parts here. Get a bigger hammer!!!

  4. #4
    axgrider73's Avatar
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    Cal, have you fixed the broken bolt yet? I still wonder is that could be the root of the problem???

  5. #5
    sea~smith sea~smith's Avatar
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    Ok,

    Thanks to beerdart, and my FAVOURITE advice, I used a bigger hammer and blew all the crap out hahahh. I tried removing the broken screw and the metal had been so weakened it sheared off, so looks like I'll need to drill and re-tap (I will definately be doing this before re-assembling) Here is a picture of the bad bearing, it was on the impeller end, the other bearing was perfect, spacer in the middle was perfect...Since there was no sign of water on the front end, Im guessing this is an alignment problem? Is there any way to verify the stator is bad, it looks so new it would be a shame to have to pitch it .
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  6. #6
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    Install the bearings and bushing.
    Leave the seals off the stub shaft
    Run the stub shaft through the bearings, the shaft should be tight but push through both bearings with no hammers etc.
    Make sure it spins freely. If it does you're pretty much gauranteed the stub shaft and bearings are "square" and that's not the issue with the premature bearing failure.

    Of course repair the broken bolt, rent the alignment tool from Steve and get the engine "squared" so you can put an end to you pump issues.

    If you can't shim the engine enough to get proper alignment check the transom and or shim the pump housing, it needs to be square.
    Be sure to use a torque wrench when tightening the pump housing to the hull. Verify the pump studs are flush with the hull and turned the correct direction so they don't bind or interfere with the pump housing and its ability to sit flush or square to the engine with the alignment tool.

    Take your time with the alignment, it's critical for a happy crank, coupler, impeller, bearings etc.

    Be sure to use a GOOD set of sealed bearings during installation.

    My pennies worth.

  7. #7
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sea~smith View Post
    Doesnt look like there was water intrusion from the impeller side, the oil was in fine shape, not contaminated.
    What oil? These pumps use grease only.

  8. #8
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    The last owner put oil in the pump trying to aid in pump bearing preservation.

  9. #9
    sea~smith sea~smith's Avatar
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    Ya.. we wont get into that,

    Ok I will buy a new stub shaft regardless because they are fairly cheap. I already have a wsm bearing kit ready to go so I will put it all back together and see how easily the stub shaft slides through the 2 bearings.

    On another topic, what is the average life expectancy of a crankshaft for an sl900? I'm looking at buying one with 67 hours on it?...

  10. #10
    axgrider73's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sea~smith View Post
    On another topic, what is the average life expectancy of a crankshaft for an sl900? I'm looking at buying one with 67 hours on it?...
    Cal, unless that crank is coming from someone you REALLY trust, I would have it checked before you install it. I certainly understand wanting to save money where you can (I am the same way) but if that crank is out of index it would be hard to see, and would cause major engine damage.

    If the cost of buying that crank and having checked is anywhere close to $600 total, I would just have Sharp's rebuild your old one. They install all new bearings and rods for $599. Then you know it will be right.

    Just my opinion.

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