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  1. #1

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    Yamaha XR-1800-RXP Project Boat

    Let the madness begin! I don't believe anyone has done a 4tec swap into a boat yet have they? I'm hoping no one has any reasons they know of why this wont work? The boat came with 66v GPR engines, so I'm not foreseeing anything too different from a GPRXP. After selling the 66v motors and parts, I have less than $1k in the boat! So I'm not TOO invested yet. Obviously the motor mounts, and a few other things will be different, but I doubt I'll have any space issues! I just got the 4tec motors Friday, and got the 1200's out of the boat today, hoping to do some measurements tomorrow. My goal is a 70mph boat with trim and reverse using 05+ pumps. I'm planning to complete one entire engine/pump setup first just to make sure I don't hit any brick walls, and to work out any issues, before I go and buy 2 of everything. Unfortunately I have a few projects ahead of this one, so it will be slow moving. I'll keep the thread updated with Pics as I make progress. Wish me luck guys, I'll need it. GreenHulk Forums Rule!
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    Last edited by boostaholic; 11-11-2007 at 01:07 AM.


  2. #2
    stifun's Avatar
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    Can't wait to see the finished product keep us updated.

  3. #3
    ISLAND RACING seadoo951's Avatar
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    WOW! Way to go! We gotta call this the XRXP!

  4. #4

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    Well did some more work on this. Took one of the pumps off to see what I had, and unfortunately looking at part numbers these appear to be specific to the Yamaha jet boats. The intermediate shaft is definitely different, not anything like the 00-02 GPR one, much shorter. I'll snap some pictures later, but I suppose this makes sense. I'm considering just leaving the pumps as is, and using the Rotax Racing 2 piece drive shafts. From what I have read they use a Yamaha PTO coupler, so this way I could leave the entire Yami pump setup intact, PTO, rubber bushing and all, and use the short side of the RR drive shaft to the Yami PTO coupler. It seems to me that this is a much cleaner/simpler route to go. I didn't get the drive shafts with the 4tec engines, so when I factor in the cost of a Yami intermediate shaft + RXP shaft + machine work, the cost of the 2peice RR shaft doesn't look too bad.
    Last edited by boostaholic; 11-14-2007 at 12:49 PM.

  5. #5
    Hydrotoys's Avatar
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    You might want to start snapping off some pics to show us. The waterbox, may work, but what does the front of it look like? The shafts may just be a 2003 and up shaft. Very popular around here.

    Love your boat. can't wait to see the results.

  6. #6

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    Yeah, the water box I'm not really concerned about, I can work something out for that. The drive shafts on the other hand, are starting to worry me. I'll snap some pics to post when I get home tonight. Has anyone used the RR drive shaft in a conversion? It looks like it will work being it uses Yamaha couplers, but thats all I'm basing this on. I would really prefer to use the RR shaft as this will make my shaft length about as short as is possible. If I have to use the GPR00-01 coupler I'm afraid it will push the engines too far forward.

    Glad you like the boat, Thanks!

  7. #7
    Hydrotoys's Avatar
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    Ted can special make your driveshaft. I think you can contact Brent with the screen name Lawracing. He was doing some work with those driveshafts.

  8. #8
    fabrication guru rapidacceleration's Avatar
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    interesting doesn't the seadoo jetboat have two 215 motors
    seams like alotta work for little gain...
    is the yami boat lighter?? smaller??
    the whole concept behind retrofitting is stuff big motors in little hulls...

    the short rr style driveshaft with the yami intermediate shaft won't work out for ya.. trust me... i did that on the yama-doo SUV.. it vibrated like crazy.. the pto just cant support and center the "floating" driveshaft design seadoo uses.. remember the yammi motors had the engine PTO bolted right to the crank.. but the seadoo shaft floats in-out and is crown for slight angles and is supported at the pump end by the pump...

    Ted made the custom driveshaft for the SUV1500 and it worked perfect.

    email me if ya need any info.

  9. #9

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    Ok, so much for the RR drive shafts then. Also I want to say thanks Rapidacceleration, and also to Hydrotoys for blazing this trail with the 4tec swaps, and sharing with us all what does work and what doesnt, so that people like myself can follow in your footsteps. Otherwise I wouldnt be here, I'd be putting boring stroked 1300's in here

    I've been waiting on someone to ask me why I was doing this, since it didn't happen sooner I must be in the right place! The dual SCIC Seadoo boat is 35k and I hate the way it looks, I like this Yamaha boat MUCH better. I already had the boat with 1 toasted engine, and wanted a 4tec project, plus I hated the smoke and having to mix oil in my gas. So I figured instead of buying a new 1200 engine and dumping tons of money into 2 sets of triple pipes etc.. I just felt like I got a lot more power & reliability AND upgradability for the money swapping to the 4tecs. Plus nobody had done a boat yet! Worse case scenario, this doesn't work, and buy a GPR hull and a Baha. The boat weighs around 1800-1900 lbs with the 2 1200 engines in it, so its not TOO heavy...
    Last edited by boostaholic; 11-14-2007 at 10:07 PM.

  10. #10

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    Pics

    Ok, I snapped some shots of the drive and pump sections of the boat, I also have shots of the parts manual for a 2000 1200r and the boat to show the differences. I just hope Ted can make me a drive shaft out of my intermediate, or Im going to have some problems. Check out the pump tunnel shaft, talk about room for improvement!!
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