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Thread: Carbon Seal

  1. #1

    Carbon Seal

    So I've been reading about this because I'm going to check it when I get home.

    Do you still check it by tilting the nose up and filling the hull with water unitl it gets over the driveshaft?

    What causes the plastic tip on the driveshaft to melt ? Is it hard to pull out the driveshaft ?

    To look for a gap in the carbon ring /seal do I unsrew both the screw clamps and slid the accordian rubber seal cover toward the front of the ski.

    while the pump is in, and have everything out of the way to get your hands in there, you'll kneel on the back of the ski, reach down and grab the carbon seal and pull it towards you(towards the back of the ski)--its hard to get that boot to compress... but you move it forward enough until you see the circlip around the shaft.....have somebody else remove that circlip (unless you have Jerry's strength~~ he can do it all on his own).. ~~ if i remember right you move it about 3/4 to an inch forward....once that circlip is off you can remove the pump and everything will just come right out.....

    What do you do to remove the circlip ? Is this something my wife could do while I have the seal pulled back.

    Is this how the driveshaft is removed to check for the melted plastic tip.


  2. #2
    EZ Dock of Long Island Shibby1485's Avatar
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    Kinch... do you have a shop manual? GET ONE

  3. #3
    Red Devil's Avatar
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    Re: Carbon Seal

    Quote Originally Posted by Kinchyle
    So I've been reading about this because I'm going to check it when I get home.

    Do you still check it by tilting the nose up and filling the hull with water unitl it gets over the driveshaft?

    What causes the plastic tip on the driveshaft to melt ? Is it hard to pull out the driveshaft ?

    To look for a gap in the carbon ring /seal do I unsrew both the screw clamps and slid the accordian rubber seal cover toward the front of the ski.

    while the pump is in, and have everything out of the way to get your hands in there, you'll kneel on the back of the ski, reach down and grab the carbon seal and pull it towards you(towards the back of the ski)--its hard to get that boot to compress... but you move it forward enough until you see the circlip around the shaft.....have somebody else remove that circlip (unless you have Jerry's strength~~ he can do it all on his own).. ~~ if i remember right you move it about 3/4 to an inch forward....once that circlip is off you can remove the pump and everything will just come right out.....

    What do you do to remove the circlip ? Is this something my wife could do while I have the seal pulled back.

    Is this how the driveshaft is removed to check for the melted plastic tip.
    Kinch,

    The drive shaft is very easy to remove once you get the circlip off. Like Steve said, if this is your first time doing this, I would pick up a manual because there are step by step instructions in there and also some good pics of what to look for in the PTO before and after installation. Getting it out is easy, but let something be out of wack with the PTO after installation and you are asking for trouble. The ring that exposes the circlip is easier to remove on a two seater than a three because we cannot get behind it as easy as a two seater. Also, if that ring has never been off before, you will probably need the tools because it is tight and may not have much lube around the rubber seal. If you are going to have your wife help, make sure she doesn't stab your hands removing the circlip while you are holding the ring back. And yes, the carbon ring is simply held on to the rubber boot by that clamp.

  4. #4
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  5. #5
    VFX_Artist's Avatar
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    if i remember right that circlip is pretty easy to pop off.. hardest part is on you holding that boot far enought back to get to it... i think mine possibly melted, because on the day that it happened i had the hi-temp warning like 2-3 times after i had been hopping the ski out of the water quite a bit... good luck with it that little f@#$ing piece thats only $5 cost me almost $2k for a misdiagnosed problem ... maybe engine misalignment could cause it to melt too? dunno.. i've put around 15+ hours on mine since i changed out that little black rubber end on the shaft with no more problems...

  6. #6
    Thanks all I'm going to look it over and try to lower it in the water after my block off plate for the OPAS splitter comes in tomorrow

  7. #7

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    Make sure the stainless part does not oscelate when the motor is running.

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