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Thread: GPRXP Hull Cuts

  1. #1
    chuck's Avatar
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    GPRXP Hull Cuts

    MARK PLEASE CHECK OUT AND IF YOU HAVE INPUT PLEASE ADD
    THESE ARE SHIBBYS PICS AND MARKS WORDS
    Basically, you need about a 1/8" clearance on the side of that engine on both front and back. Pictures, make a better guide anyway for someone that doesn't like instructions.

    The bottom one is easy. Just cut out the middle piece. Avoid the bottom of the hull. Clean all the dust out and seal it up. You are done with that one.

    The side one is a little trickier the first time.

    Drill out the rivets holding the rear starboard mount in place, and let it drop down inside the stringer.

    Start behind the front mount, and cut back to the rear mount, in front of the rear hole. The rear hole is now your front hole on that rear mount. You have to cut fairly close to that hole. See pictures.

    Take the plate out, use it as the template for the new rear hole and drill your rear hole.

    Bend the corner of that plate, so that it sits flush with the inside of that stringer.

    Drill a hole in the plate, and the stringer for a rivet and rivit it in place. Make sure to put a relief in your rear SST mount, where that rivet sits so that they SST mount will sit flush.

    Seal it all up. Drop in the engine.


  2. #2
    chuck's Avatar
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    mrbtd's Avatar
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    How much space should be left between the front bracket and beginning of stringer cut ? Looks like it is about 1/2"

    What do you use to fill the void in the stinger - Expanding foam or something ?
    Last edited by mrbtd; 07-19-2008 at 10:03 PM.

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    BLACK MAGIC HEADERS hydrojunkie's Avatar
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    Are You Building One

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    My son (mohawk man) jeffsntx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrbtd View Post
    How much space should be left between the front bracket and beginning of stringer cut ? Looks like it is about 1/2"

    What do you use to fill the void in the stinger - Expanding foam or something ?

    Cut the stringer even with the front of the motor mount plate. I used expanding foam in each end before I laid glass over it so that there would be something to hold the glass there while it dried.

  6. #6
    mrbtd's Avatar
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    Thanks...

    After the cuts - Is there enough clearence for a few layers of fiberglass/carbon fiber in the bottom where there is now only one layer of SMC ?

  7. #7
    My son (mohawk man) jeffsntx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrbtd View Post
    Thanks...

    After the cuts - Is there enough clearence for a few layers of fiberglass/carbon fiber in the bottom where there is now only one layer of SMC ?
    Yes there is. I dont think I am going to put anything between the motor mount plates on my 06 build. I will just "cap" the open ends and run a bead of 5200FC where the liner meets the hull.

  8. #8
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    Yikes - It looks like I cut a little to close on the left rear hole (1")....Either that or others have trimmed the backing plate a little.

    I went ahead and rivited the backing plate to the hull. Anyone see any issue with it ?

    I will be back filling with some expanding foam. I could lay up some Fiberglass over the top if needed.

    Also - Has anyone used a vibration pad underneath the mount where it is outside of the stinger ?
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  9. #9
    cheatin' piston popper addicted's Avatar
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    trim the backer plate. the motor has very little fore/aft clearance as is. you may need to trim the stringer a little more too. you'll see once you drop in the motor
    Last edited by addicted; 07-22-2008 at 09:11 AM.

  10. #10
    Moderator RX951's Avatar
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    yup, I had to trim my backing plate

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