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  1. #1


  2. #2
    Kaybat's Avatar
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    I used 3m 4200 on my boat transponder,and it worked fine. If you ever need to remove it(for whatever reason),I wouldn't use 5200.

  3. #3
    thompsdw's Avatar
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    Yea, 3M doesn't recommend 4200 for that application. I think I had better stick with their product selector. I have used 4200 in a lot of places on a boat, but most of them were fastened, versus simply glued.

  4. #4
    AKA: Larry lafjax's Avatar
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    Use any good (Devcon) 30 minute epoxy. Clean well with alcohol or laquer thinner. Rough up the surface of the puck and hull. Glue and wait 24 hours. Mine has held for 1 year so far.

  5. #5
    thompsdw's Avatar
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    Thanks Larry. In this case you are not gluing the puck, you are gluing a support ring that the puck installs into. So there is no epoxy under the puck. Just a clean inner fiberglass hull. I guess any slow - set epoxy would work. I reposted this because I have some 5200 in the garage and it seems to be what 3M recommends. I just can't get it below the puck - you have pointed this out in several historical threads.

    I just don't want to pull the muffler out again. Thought I would check the brain trust first!!

  6. #6
    AKA: Larry lafjax's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thompsdw View Post
    Thanks Larry. In this case you are not gluing the puck, you are gluing a support ring that the puck installs into. So there is no epoxy under the puck. Just a clean inner fiberglass hull. I guess any slow - set epoxy would work. I reposted this because I have some 5200 in the garage and it seems to be what 3M recommends. I just can't get it below the puck - you have pointed this out in several historical threads.

    I just don't want to pull the muffler out again. Thought I would check the brain trust first!!
    Oh, Okay, seadoo version! Yep, tough call on the muffler. I believe I would pull it again so you can have good access to the spot on the hull. You only want to glue it once so it has to be perfect. I know it's trouble to pull the waterbox but the more you do it the easier it becomes. Good luck! You'll love the depth finder.

  7. #7
    thompsdw's Avatar
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    Yea, the hardest part of the job was getting the clamp off of the 4-Tec exhaust. Nut came off easy, but the clamp wouldn't release. Here is a tip for all that might read - I put a heat gun on the clamp for about 2 mins and it fell off. You wouldn't believe the locktite under the clamp. Wow!

  8. #8
    AKA: Larry lafjax's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thompsdw View Post
    Yea, the hardest part of the job was getting the clamp off of the 4-Tec exhaust. Nut came off easy, but the clamp wouldn't release. Here is a tip for all that might read - I put a heat gun on the clamp for about 2 mins and it fell off. You wouldn't believe the locktite under the clamp. Wow!
    Good idea with the heat gun!! I've used a well placed 2x4 and a hammer before. Now you can work hull with lots of room to do it right.

  9. #9
    A slow set epoxy works best as it sets with less air bubbles in it vs. fast set epoxy. You can't use anything with silicone in it as the sonar can't shoot through the silicone. I used an epoxy repair type packet from West Marine that cost around $14.

    Mark

  10. #10
    GTXX's Avatar
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    my memory must really be bad, I installed a depth finder on my brother's GTX and do not remember removing anything from the exhaust. oh well......

    anyway, I do remember using PC-11 marine epoxy on the transducer ring and it was cured enough by the time I finished the wiring to install the transducer.

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