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  1. #1

    Great tips for removing stuck Pump shaft

    I'm trying to remove the pump from my 2000 XL700. I have all the bolts loose (4 in rear and 2 in front) and yet the pump won't pull out. Engine is currently out, and I need to fix pump or the intermediate shaft (something is binding, I think in the impeller) before I re-install.

    I've double-checked the service manual and can't identify any more bolts that should be removed.

    I've also searched the forum for ideas and I am assuming that the drive shaft spline is stuck in the intermediate shaft where they mate. I don't want to yank on the casings with a truck, as I can't afford to break the bulkhead.

    Any ideas on how to dislodge?

    I have tried prying on the casing tabs (as much as I'm comfortable with. I don't want to crack the hull either).

    I used wedges to leave tension on the casing tabs overnight, but again no movement.

    I tried to remove the intermediate shaft (it wouldn't pull that way either).

    I tried to take off the intermediate shaft coupler so I could hopefully get some WD40 into the spline area and/or access to insert a rod and drive directly into the end of the drive shaft (I think that the intermediate shaft is hollow), but I can't get the coupler off. I tried using a coupler tool with and impact wrench (while holding the intermediate shaft with a large pipe wrench). It worked to get the coupler off my crankshaft, but isn't working on this one. After that didn't work, I tried heating the coupler neck with a propane torch since once of the previous owners seemed to like using red locktite everywhere, but is still doesn't budge.

    I'm out of ideas.

    Can someone confirm for me that the intermediate shaft coupler (Yamaha Part 6M6-45813-22-8P) has a normal right-hand thread?

    Does anyone know the size of the threads on the rear of the drive shaft? I may try to make an attachment for slide hammer and pull directly on the drive shaft if I can't come up with any better ideas.

    Any help would be appreciated.


  2. #2

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    I can only comment on how I did it with my GPR's. On a GPR, there are only 4 bolts that secure the pump to the wear ring. The tabs or "ears" were the key.

    I dropped the bow of the boat to where the pump was higher than the bow while on the trailer. This allowed me to spray WD-40 onto the shaft and intermediate shaft through the intake tunnel. The WD-40 then drains into the intermediate shaft and soaks.

    I used small wedges and eventually small blocks of wood on the tabs located between the wear ring and pump stator. You may have to get out of your confort zone to really put pressure on that pump to release from the intermediate shaft.

    The trick is to get the two to seperate just a tad... maybe just 1/4-1/2 inch. Then you use a rubber mallet or a hammer with a piece of wood to tap the pump back into place as if you were going to put it back together. Continue to work it in and out 1/4 inch at a time spraying on occasion with WD-40 and it will loosen up. Do not expect so many of years of corrosion build up to give it all up at once.

    Patience, patience, patience.

    Hope this helps.

  3. #3
    2000 GPRXP 4tec shooter98xpl's Avatar
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    make sure you took off the 10 mm bolt that sits on the left hand side. Its between the top left and bottom left bolts that hold the pump on.
    SHOOTER

  4. #4
    Moderator OsideBill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shooter98xpl View Post
    make sure you took off the 10 mm bolt that sits on the left hand side. Its between the top left and bottom left bolts that hold the pump on.
    SHOOTER
    I do not believe the XL700 has this bolt. The pump is the same as the older GP's where it has two bolts that mount up to the underside of the transom and four long bolts that go through the entire pump assembly.

  5. #5
    OLD # 7 IEGPR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OsideBill View Post
    I do not believe the XL700 has this bolt. The pump is the same as the older GP's where it has two bolts that mount up to the underside of the transom and four long bolts that go through the entire pump assembly.
    Thats correct

  6. #6

    Thumbs up Success ! !

    I used a combination of ideas from this and other forums to get the pump out of my 7 year old XL700. - If you need to get your pump out, try Steps 1 - 5. If that doesn't work, you'll have to go to Steps 6 - 10, but you can get it out without damage. Pictures of the simple tools are attached.
    1. Carefully remove the Intake Grate (6 bolts along sides and 2 in front). Keep it straight while removing it so you donít snap it.
    2. Disconnect the pump hoses and remove the six pump to hull bolts (4 on rear of casing and 2 on front).
    3. Stack some wood beneath the Pump Body to catch the pump, once it becomes disconnected.
    4. Pry on the "tabs" located on the bottom, rear sides of the Pump Casing (don't over stress or you will break them off). I tried with pry bars and straight chisels, using small wood pieces to protect the hull.
    5. Put tension on the pump casing by driving wedges between the pump casing tabs and the hull (I used some cold chisels as my wedges and used small pieces of wood trim to build up from the hull, these pieces of wood also protected the hull from scratches and helped spread the load). I then waited a couple days as someone mentioned, and tried a little more tension, but mine didn't unstick.
    6. Remove the engine, if it isn't already out (what a pain if you only have a pump problem).
    7. Remove the coupler from the Intermediate shaft. I used an impeller removal tool, and added a 4-foot cheater bar (2-1/2 inch diameter fence post) on my breaker bar. I had a friend keep the intermediate shaft from rotating with a large pipe wrench, also with a 4-foot cheater bar.
    8. Once the coupler was off, I lifted the front end of my dolly, sprayed WD40 into the end of the Intermediate Shaft, and waited a couple days. Again I tried prying on the tabs and it still didnít work for me.
    9. I then made a drive pin, using a 12-inch long by 7/16-inch diameter steel rod. I beveled the end of the rod slightly with a grinder. I then put the rod into the shaft and made sure that it was seated against the drive shaft. I then hit it with a small hand sledge. Finally some movement of my wedges!
    10. I then went back and forth, putting tension on the wedges and then going back and hitting on the drive pin (probably moved between and 1/8 Ė 1/4 inch each cycle). The pump finally came out, with no apparent damage to Pump Casing, Pump Shaft, or Intermediate shaft.
    Thanks to others who posted before me for most of the ideas. I hope this can help someone else out in the future.
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  7. #7
    Moderator OsideBill's Avatar
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    Great Job!! That was a lot of work to get that apart. Thanks for the great write-up and pictures. I think I will sticky this in the how to section

  8. #8

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    next time just undo all the bolts take off the grate climb underneath and beat repeatedly with a 10lb dead blow hammer where the back of the grate bolts up. make sure to support the pump at the back

  9. #9
    I take the bolts off, hose, cables etc.
    Get a 2/4 thats about eight foot long, stick it between the top of pump and hull and carefully pry up. This will break the seal at either the pump, wear ring or intake ring from then you can get a small pry bar and work it out. No mess and no need to get to physical, leverage, thats the answer.

  10. #10
    same on my GPR now... i can't remove my pump...stuck..shaft... grrr....

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