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  1. #1
    shhr's Avatar
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    F/S triton Trailers

    I am a Triton trailer dealer and will be placing my preseason order PM me if you are looking for one. I am in the Nashville area

    Thanks
    Scott


  2. #2

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    If you want the best buy a Triton... I just bought a Elite WCII for the move from NH to NC. They tow really nice with the torsion axle and bigger tire/wheel. Well built all around.. top quality!

    Just wish it was a couple feet longer so I could put my blaster across the front of it..

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Arrow Triton Elite WCII is a good trailer, plus upgrades

    I agree that the 2008 Triton Elite WC-II is nicely made. Tows smoothly, not much bounce to the ride.

    If you need more length, look at the WC2-2 Tandem axle PWC trailer.

    DO get the larger 13" wheels and tires.

    I had vibration problems with my new Triton at highway speeds (especially when not loaded) with the 12" stock Carlisle wheels + tires (Load Range E), and the problem was not fixed by balancing the wheels. Two sets of balanced Carlisles, same problem - visible and audible frame vibration around 110Km/hr (~68mph). Faster or slower, not much problem. I suspect the high 80PSI pressure, or the Carlisle tread pattern, or the many ply E range tire carcass, was just not compatible with the natural resonance of the Triton frame.

    Switched to 13" Goodyear Marathons (Load Range C, 50PSI), and no more vibrations. Not radial tires, but they work just fine for me.

    Take the time to properly set up the bunks and winch location and height. Get the bunk spacing right for your hull(s), and get the tongue weight into the correct weight range. Be sure to get the hull fully onto the bunks, not hanging off the back.

    The Triton bunks are quite adjustable, so it might take a few tries to get it just right for your hulls.

    Also check that the coupler latch adjustment tension nut underneath is properly tightened when on the hitch ball. Mine was several turns too loose, allowing the coupler to shift around too much on the ball, even when latched.

    If there is any play where your drawbar fits into in the hitch receiver, reducing that play will make the trailer tow more quietly. I was surprised how much noise was just from the drawbar shifting around in the receiver during towing.

    Changes I made to the stock Triton Elite WCII;
    - LED lighting upgrade (only the plate lamp is not LED)
    - Checked every lamp connection, a few needed slight crimping to make it a tight electrical connection
    - Shifted the aluminum walk plank fully rearward (may change to a larger/wider/longer custom plank later)
    - 13" spare tire and proper spare tire mount (not just a u-bolt onto the frame)
    - I changed the spare tire mounts retention bolts to real 1/2-20 thread wheel studs, so the spare mount now uses same wheel nuts as the trailer tires. Only one size wheel nuts everywhere on the trailer, keeps it simple. Same size wrench as the car wheel nuts, too.
    - Mud flaps behind each trailer wheel (keeps some of the road grit off the rear of the hulls)
    - Mud flaps behind the rear car tires too.
    - Fulton XPD15L dual wheel trailer jack (works better on soft ground, less flimsy than the usual trailer jack designs)
    - Trailer coupler lift assist handle
    - Coupler, hitch, and drawbar locks (single keyed)
    - Easy Lift D-shaped trailer jack
    (works well, just put it under the short axle spindle just inside the tire)
    - Kodiak Red-Eye bearing protectors (better than the simple OEM zerk fitted dust caps)
    Edit: Well, maybe the Red-Eye are not the best choice...
    The chrome plating on my Red-Eyes has peeled away (fresh water ramps only), and the underlying metal shows corrosion.
    I also suspect (and will confirm when the weather warms up) that the Red-Eye may be pressing on the end of the axle, and not actually applying pressure to the grease.


    Edit 2: The corroded Red-Eyes were replaced under warranty by Kodiak.

    But the flow through design of the Sure-Lube axle on the Triton trailer means that the bearing protector cannot maintain a positive pressure on the grease - it just works its way out the back of the bearing until the Red-Eye shows the 'low grease' position. I can still add grease, and it all works just fine. Just without the added benefit of holding the grease seals under pressure to help keep water out of the bearings.


    - Plastic dust caps over the Red-Eyes
    - Cluthe brand Nylon licence plate frame (keeps the plate from getting beat up)
    - The OEM plastic licence plate support cracked, so I replaced it with a SS hinge and aluminum plate
    - Starbrite PTEF trailer hitch lubricant
    - Orange Safe-T-Alert Trailer Dock for trailer jack wheel (keeps the trailer from rolling around by itself)
    - McGard Chrome wheel nuts (1/2-20 thread), keeps water and rust away from wheel stud thread ends
    - I changed the wire clamps under the fenders from zip ties to real nylon wire clips, just tidier
    - Liquid Rollers silicone spray onto the bunks
    - I added labels to the fenders for correct tire pressure, and to the tongue for tire pressures, tongue weights, total weight with fully loaded boats (full fuel tanks, etc)
    - Also added my cell phone number to the tongue labels, so if there is a problem with the trailer while I am somewhere else, people can call me.
    Last edited by K447; 03-27-2011 at 01:06 AM.

  4. #4

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    I wanted the 13" tires, but the dealer stongly suggested I get the 12" because they are radials and the 13" biasply. I got the 12" and have been happy with them. Towed the trailer home empty - 2hour drive, and when I moved it was 14hr 900mi drive loaded. No problems - tows very smooth. I did add an anti-rattle hitch pin - nothing to do with the trailer - just the hitch on my new grand cherokee is noisy. One thing to check is to be sure trailer is level. These WCII sit pretty low which is nice for unloading, but you may have to order a drop hitch to get it to sit level. I think I needed a 7 1/2 drop - something walmart does not carry. Anyways I give Trition A++++ nice trailer!

  5. #5
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    my buddies has cracked 3 times all in different places
    it hauls 2 sxrs
    frame @ the v neck and frame right behind the axles both sides
    when the neck cracked he was far out of town on vacation and had to load it on a car trailer to get home looked very funny!

  6. #6
    Water Bum Rodneyae's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vomitspot View Post
    my buddies has cracked 3 times all in different places
    it hauls 2 sxrs
    frame @ the v neck and frame right behind the axles both sides
    when the neck cracked he was far out of town on vacation and had to load it on a car trailer to get home looked very funny!

    They did have a problem with the welds a couple of years ago, but the problem has been fixed. I also have the wcII elite and love it. The pulls well and with the torsion bar axle it dose not bounce the tow vehical like a spring axle, also the skis do not get jarred around as bad. Great trailers!!!!!

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zrtman View Post
    I wanted the 13" tires, but the dealer stongly suggested I get the 12" because they are radials and the 13" biasply. I got the 12" and have been happy with them.
    Towed the trailer home empty - 2hour drive, and when I moved it was 14hr 900mi drive loaded. No problems - tows very smooth.
    ...These WCII sit pretty low which is nice for unloading, but you may have to order a drop hitch to get it to sit level. I think I needed a 7 1/2 drop - something walmart does not carry.
    Anyways I give Trition A++++ nice trailer!
    Given the fairly light loads these tires are carrying, I am not sure there is a big handling difference between radial and bias ply for these trailers. Trailer is rated for 2335lbs payload, but I am carrying a pair of 750lb PWC (with full fuel tanks), so well under the tire limits.

    Rolling resistance might be somewhat higher, but I suspect aerodynamic drag from the PWC and towing speeds are the main fuel efficiency factors, not the tires.

    I do like the extra sidewall height of the 13" tires. More rim protection from curbs and potholes.

    Be aware that ST trailer tires are weight rated for 60mph max. If you drive faster, you must either de-rate the max tire load rating, or increase the tire pressure (up to 10PSI above the max sidewall pressure is OK), or BOTH, if you are really flying.

    The formula for this ST tire de-rating can seem complicated, involving both pressure increases and tire load de-ratings as speed rises.

    Triton Elite WCII tongue height with the 12" wheels is about 16", with the 13" tires the tongue height rises to about 17.5". Good that you made the effort to get the trailer to tow level, some folks don't, and the trailer handling does suffer.

    Glad to hear you have not had any vibration problems with the 12" Carlisle tires. Just to be sure, the next time you are pulling your Triton empty, cruise at about 64mph, then SLOWLY increase speed while monitoring the A-section of the trailer frame, or the rear bunk ends. If you don't find vibration at any speed between 64 and 72mph, then it probably isn't happening - which is good.

    In my case, it would vibrate noticably, and fairly loudly, when towed by my car. When being towed by a pickup truck the vibration was visibly happening at the trailer, but was not very noticable or audible inside the truck. Unless I was looking for it in the mirrors, I might not have known that the trailer frame was rapidly flexing about 5" up and down at the vibration speed. Fatigue cracks would eventually have occured, I am sure. Changed to 13" tires, and no vibration now, no worries.

  8. #8
    shhr's Avatar
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    I always recomend the 12" 145 Radials, this tire is made for Triton mine has made many long 500 plus mile trips at highway speeds with no problem with 2 1000 pound skis I usually forget the skis are back there

    and as far as cracking I have never seen TRITON made in the last several years have a weld break, this is how I treat my Trion
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I have a hitch on the back, I pull 4 1000 pound skis on long trips like to MB last year 600 miles each way I dont think Triton has a cracking problem

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Arrow Adding a hitch to the rear of a Triton PWC trailer

    Quote Originally Posted by shhr View Post
    ...I have a hitch on the back, I pull 4 1000 pound skis on long trips like to MB last year 600 miles each way I don't think Triton has a cracking problem
    Could you detail how you have attached the hitch to the rear of your Triton trailer?

  10. #10
    shhr's Avatar
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    I need to take a picture,
    I basically had a trailer hitch that came off a older Ford truck, cut the ends off so it was just a staight piece of iron and attached it with 4 square u bolts that I had made to fit the frame on the trailer then just spliced in another light hook up

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