Thread: Flywheel Question, yet again
01-04-2008, 08:58 PM #1
Flywheel Question, yet again
Ok well I am confused on this fly wheel install. I made another thread about the install and I thought I understood but now that it is infront of me I am lost. I can understand as much as, you put the key in the slot, you line up the flywheel onto the key (i am using the stock key) and then you take a rubber mallet and pound the sob on. From the my other thread though and multiple searches on goggle I need to lap the snout? And flywheel?
Lapping means using a grinding type substance right? This could be a good how to after we get a step by step for my retarded self. So after this thread is finished lets move it to the "How to" section of the forum.
Last edited by Chrisrokc; 01-04-2008 at 09:23 PM.
01-04-2008, 10:14 PM #2
Chris all that needs to be done is install the key in crank, gently slide the flywheel on to the crank snout, then install the bolt and torque to spec..
It is a wedge fit and will lock the flywheel to the crank as soon as you torque the bolt to spec... Its that simple.
01-04-2008, 10:42 PM #3
01-04-2008, 11:33 PM #4
01-04-2008, 11:40 PM #5
Lol! What are you guys using to keep the crank from turning while you do this?
01-04-2008, 11:45 PM #6
In the past folks have lapped the flywheel to the snout. I have done this on all my rebuilds. Go to Napa or other autoparts store and buy some medium grit lapping compound. With the key out of the crank smear a small amount of the compound on the crank snout. Cover it with compound. Place the flywheel on and turn it about two revolutions. Don't apply too much pressure. Wipe everything and make sure all surfaces have sanded look from the compound. Repeat these steps until the whole mounting surface show mark-off from the compound. Don't do it excessively. A couple times should do it.
The reason for doing this is to ensure an intimate fit between the flywheel and crank. It is believed this reduces the chances of a crank snout failure.
Don't overdo it. A couple times is all it should take. If it takes more you have snout damage or flywheel damage and should replace the defective part(s).
I have found it to be more of a sanity check than anything else.
Your probably fine just putting it on as Ross suggested. Endurance racers with triple pipes tend to break quite a few snouts, rec riders don't tend to.
01-04-2008, 11:46 PM #7
01-04-2008, 11:47 PM #8
I put a broom handle in the drive coupler and tighten it all at once with the torque wrench.
01-04-2008, 11:55 PM #9
01-05-2008, 12:54 AM #10
Hahah! I have that part on so this should be a breeze. I think I am going to skip out of the snout thing since this is a rec ski used for just some light drag racing. Who knows I might have the flywheel off in the not so distant future anyways to install a keyway if the ECU doesnt come out.
If someone could take this and move it to the "how to" section that would be sweet. I am sure others would like to see this in the future when doing their motor builds!
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