4 Tec Engine: Removal, Rebuild, and Installation Tips

[thompsdw]

I have searched and cannot find a post here that lists the "tricks" of the trade when pulling, rebuilding, and re-installing a 4 Tec engine (they are in bits and pieces of threads). I am about to do this job, so those tips would be very valuable to me. I have picked up a few (just some examples):

- Picking up the motor some to remove the starter lead.
- Lower intake bolts not needing to come out to remove the intake.
- Marking the cam for re-installation.
- Change the flywheel bolts if an older 4-Tec

Can you guys that have done this help build a thread to make it a "less painful" process? If there is a thread I have missed, please help me get to it!

[Green Hulk]

Do you own a service manual?

[thompsdw]

Absolutely, but that is not what I am talking about here. I have rebuilt a couple of engines and after I do the rebuild, I say "damn, if I had done it this way - it would have been much easier". They don't necessarily list those "tricks and tips" in the service manual. That is what I was trying to pickup in this tread. The tips and tricks, not the procedure. I have a manual for that.

[Green Hulk]

ah, i understand!

Here are a few tips that come to mind on engine removal....

to remove the driveshaft leave the pump in place. use the seadoo tool to push back the slide ring to reveal the circlip. Pry the circlip out of the drive shaft and then you can remove the pump. Lay an oil absorbent pad below the driveshaft where it enters the PTO housing. Now give the driveshaft a sharp pull from the back to remove it.

Drain the coolant by removing the 5mm allen head plug in the back edge of the ride plate. Open the coolant bottle cap to help the coolant flow faster.


Remove the fuel rail and set it off to the side (injectors still in place)

Remove the intake manifold

Disconnect the exhaust J pipe and slide the exhaust assembly back out of the way.

Remove the supercharger

remove the plumbing from the thermostat

Remove the three bolts holding the engine down on its mounts

Raise the engine up which will give you easier access to the postitive cable on the starter, ground wires on the front of the block and bottom hose connecting to the thermostat.

Once everything is disconnected raise the engine out of the hull and proceed to rebuild the engine as per the manual.

Hope that helps!

Maybe others will add their input too

[thompsdw]

I hope so, if we get enough content this would be a good sticky.

[Green Hulk]

i agree

[The Bandit]

One thing I can add is a tip that Shibby gave me. If you are planning to tear the engine down for rebuild, Remove the head while the engine is still mounted in the hull. The head bolts require some arm torque to remove and you dont want the engine sliding,falling banging,swinging around.

[Lurker]

anyone have tips on mounting the engine on an engine stand? I've got a harbor freight stand and it seemed like the hardest part was getting the engine bolted to the stand. I needed two people to do it.

[05Limited]

anyone have tips on mounting the engine on an engine stand...

Josh... I'll get some better pics tomorrow but it is really quite easy. I use three of the spacers that come with the R&D wedge but any large, thick nuts will work. This is a Kragen's stand.

Jeff

[Franko]

One thing I can add is a tip that Shibby gave me. If you are planning to tear the engine down for rebuild, Remove the head while the engine is still mounted in the hull. The head bolts require some arm torque to remove and you dont want the engine sliding,falling banging,swinging around.

I was going to post this very same tip. But a better tip is get an impact wrench and air compressor. With the tight ass head bolts and bolts and plugs under the engine, it will save you some serious elbow grease.