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  1. #1
    fabrication guru rapidacceleration's Avatar
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    Open Loop Kits Updated

    Per Request of many people we made changes to the open loop kits again.
    the REV-4 plates now have only 3 holes.
    a 1/8-NPT on top for the included anoide
    a 1/2-NPT for the barb fitting
    a 1/8-NPT on bottom for the drain.

    I think theres been alot of confusion on the drain fitting and its importance to the operation of the system..
    the drain on bottom has been upgraded to a beefier 1/8 fitting instead of the small fitting in the rev-3 plates. (both work fine)
    The idea behind the drain is to automaticly drain off ALL the water in the system when you pull the boat out. without it the motor will hold all the water in the system, this could be especially bad for you guy in the Really cold climates where a freeze is possible.. this drain should be run gradually to the lowest point on the back of the craft with NO upward slooping. basicly let gravity do the work. You can use 5/32 or 3/16 ID hose. you only want to flow a minimum amount at the drain. it will be flowing ALL the time so you don't want to pull to much water from the system.
    I will be making these small pissers that will be ideal for this aplication and will be included in future kits.
    those of you that have purchased the open loop kits (with the small barb in bottom) and would like me to send them a pisser please pm me..
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    Last edited by rapidacceleration; 01-17-2008 at 08:37 PM.


  2. #2
    ISLAND RACING seadoo951's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rapidacceleration View Post
    Per Request of many people we made changes to the open loop kits again.
    the REV-D plates now have only 3 holes.
    a 1/8-NPT on top for the included anoide
    a 1/2-NPT for the barb fitting
    a 1/8-NPT on bottom for the drain.

    I think theres been alot of confusion on the drain fitting and its importance to the operation of the system..
    the drain on bottom has been upgraded to a beefier 1/8 fitting instead of the small fitting in the rev-c plates. (both work fine)
    The idea behind the drain is to automaticly drain off ALL the water in the system when you pull the boat out. without it the motor will hold all the water in the system, this could be especially bad for you guy in the Really cold climates where a freeze is possible.. this drain should be run gradually to the lowest point on the back of the craft with NO upward slooping. basicly let gravity do the work. and should not be bigger then 1/8 ID. you only want to flow a minimum amount at the drain. it will be flowing ALL the time so you don't want to pull to much water from the system.
    I will be making these small pissers that will be ideal for this aplication and will be included in future kits.
    those of you that have purchased the open loop kits rev-c (with the small barb in bottom) and would like me to send them a pisser please email me.. all i ask is you cover shipping on the pisser. ( a few bucks)
    Hey Rapid, what's you e-mail? I have the Rev-C plate (All black) and I would like the pisser fitting.

  3. #3
    Moderator The Bandit's Avatar
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    Just got my kit yesterday. Looks great, thank you!

  4. #4
    Hydrotoys's Avatar
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    Where does the temp sensor go now?

  5. #5
    fabrication guru rapidacceleration's Avatar
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    leave it in the head. only a couple people ended up moving the sensor. I got so many pm's about the m12 thread and many people confused it for a 1/4 NPT and tried to plug it but ended up messing up there plates.. So we decided to eliminate it all together..

  6. #6
    Hydrotoys's Avatar
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    If you reverse cool it, then having it in the head is not very bright.

  7. #7
    fabrication guru rapidacceleration's Avatar
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    can't seam to please anyone these days
    maybe we should just make both avalible????????????

  8. #8
    EZ Dock of Long Island Shibby1485's Avatar
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    if someone wants the one with all the multiple holes tapped... i'll trade them my brand new one for a newest style plate with less holes, lol....

    if ur inlet to the block is into thermostat cover and out the head then sensor should be in the head
    if ur following mark's diagram feeding the head and exiting the thermostat cover then sensor should be in the thermostat block off

  9. #9
    fabrication guru rapidacceleration's Avatar
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    I go to the plate out the head then to the oil cooler and out the back.

    shibby this is the plate you requested....

  10. #10
    EZ Dock of Long Island Shibby1485's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rapidacceleration View Post
    I go to the plate out the head then to the oil cooler and out the back.

    shibby this is the plate you requested....
    YUP!!

    i just still have one of the original rev 3 plates or whatever you called them with the like 5 holes in it...

    i'll see if i can pawn mine off to someone and pick up one of these... otherwise i'm just going to need to buy like 3 plugs or something for mine, which i prefer not to do bc it just doesn't look nice and tidy with a bunch of plugs in the plate

    nice job Daniel

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