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Thread: Wet pump mod.

  1. #1

    Wet pump mod.

    Has anybody out there tested the wet pump modification?


  2. #2
    No one has tried it? I guess I will be the first for the 15f.
    Last edited by Chowski; 02-03-2008 at 01:23 AM.

  3. #3
    jtskir15f's Avatar
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    Chowski: i got mine done, but seeing as there is a foot of ice on the river yet, i dont think i'll be able to test for another 2 months.

    Ya gotta ask 250x guys because it's origionally a 250 mod. i found it on the 250 forum and dave from impros said it would work on a 15f.

  4. #4
    madtown_chris's Avatar
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    Step by Step re-write on wet pump mod

    WET BEARING SET-UP Sooooooooo EASY!!!\

    1. Remove pump assy. with nozzle.
    2. Remove tail cone from pump. "twist off”
    3. Place pump shaft in a vice or use the OEM tool.
    4. Remove impeller and lay aside.
    5. Inspect rear pump housing for water droplets of moisture in the pump cavity by looking in the cone area with a flash light.
    6. If pump is dry you are good to go. The seals are working well. If not new seals are a breeze to install.

    Now the modification:

    7. Using a long sharp pick, remove the inner dust seal on the inside of the pump housing and if you are going to use a new bearing "which the new bearings being very easy to install I recommend it. The bearings can be removed and installed in just minutes. Remember only the inside dust shield on the bearing in the front. Remove BOTH dust shields for the "new bearing you just installed in the rear for 13.50. Plus about $8-10 for the Gear-Oil. That is all of the cost to get free power.
    DO THIS MODIFICATION AND DO A BEFORE AFTER TEST WITH A FEW PEOPLE AND SEE WHAT THEY THINK.......30% OR MORE LESS DRAG!

    8. At this point you need to put a heavy coat of grease around the o ring on the pump shaft so no damage happens to the o ring during installation.

    9. Turn the pump upside down and put your finger in the impeller side on the bottom where the stainless sleeves protrude out of the cavity that the impeller shaft uses. keep oil from coming out.

    10. Only use BEL RAY GEAR SAVER 80/90 WT/OIL
    trust me on this oil. When we replace the finger full of grease in those pump bearings with oil that is thin but rated excellent. 80/90 weight.

    11. Fill the pump housing full of the BELL RAY Gear Saver oil all the way to the top.

    12. The pump shaft should be installed with the new bearing pressed on the shaft.

    13. While the pump is full of oil install the pump shaft pushing down toward your finger sealing the bottom. The pump shaft will push into place and the 3 oil seals we checked earlier will seal the shaft so no leaks.

    14. However, there wil be some oil leaking our because our purpose is to fill the cavity to nearly 90%.

    15. Install the rear cone and o ring and you are in business!


    THE RESULTS ARE FANTASTIC! 30% LESS DRAG ON YOUR IMPELLER TURING IN THE PUMP HOUSING WITH THE OIL IN THERE INSTEAD OF THE GREASE.

    JUST REMEMER REMOVE TWO SEALS AND FILL HER UP WITH THE BEL RAY GEARSAVER 80/9O WEIGHT. IT IS THIN AND LOOKS LIKE TRANSMISSION OIL. LESS PUMP/IMPELLER DRAG MORE POWER TO THE WATER....

    16. Install the pump shaft slowly and when you feel pressure just give it a good quick push it will go right in there and the o ring will be sealed. You will spill just a few drops of oil as the shaft pushes through.

    17. Reinstall pump shaft assembly in the vice and install the new reworked impeller and torque to 72 ft lbs and remove from vice .........as there will be a few drops of oil again...

    18. Reinstall the pump cone and then reinstall the pump assembly being very careful to clean the rubber seal with soap and water, as it usually has so much grease on the seal that it causes cavitation. Clean them really well and clean the inside of the pump area where the pump seals against the hull with brake cleaner. Wipe dry....IMPORTANT!

    19. Then spray the inside of the pump cavity and the outside rubber seal on the pump with windex heavily and the pump will slide right in as long as you get the splines lined up. You are good to go.

    That is the best tip I have ever had that worked REALLY GREAT!

  5. #5
    Having Fun jp1300r's Avatar
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    I got this mod done today. You don't have to remove the impeller, if you don't want to. My bearings were good. No signs of water in housing. Removed rear bearing and pulled seals. Removed rear seal from front bearing. I was suprised by the lack of grease in these bearings, but they seemed okay. You can make a mess filling the pump up with oil, so be careful or you will have oil all over the place.

    I could tell when done that the impeller does turn easier.

    JP

  6. #6
    SXR Guru
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    IMO, it is a waste of time. If you really evaluate the amount of "drag" with the grease bearings put on the prop, it is minute! Let's assume it is taking a extra 3 hp to overcome this friction and you improve it by 30% based on these claims. That nets you a extra .9 hp. It takes a least 5 hp IMO to make any discernable difference and really 10 hp to make you take notice. Doesn't hurt I suppose if you feel you want to do it but it will not garner much. Maybe it is a placebo affect? Any speed claims based on this mod would be hard to substantiate. Fuel, air density, water conditions, rider positioning, etc.... all play a much bigger factor than potentially adding 1hp as far as speed.

  7. #7
    Having Fun jp1300r's Avatar
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    I done think it will much difference either speed wise. It didn't take much to turn prop before I did the mod. But it does turn easier and seems smoother after the wet mod. The GPR guys have been doing it for years, so I just figured why not. Only thing now is I will have a oily mess every time I take the pump apart.

    JP

  8. #8
    jonny5's Avatar
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    How many times are you going to take the pump apart..??

    Im also doing this on my stxr...alittle here and there add up ...thats how the gpr's are over 90 now..... Might make more of a diff on a 2 stroke...since the 15f has more torque all around

  9. #9
    Impros's Avatar
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    Hey Russ, I'm not sure if you did it or not, but I consistently saw .4 mph with the oil mod. Several customers confirmed the same gains. It may not seem like much, but 1.5mph with the 250 impeller mod we do, .4 with the oil bath, a little more flowing the pump, adds up for VERY little monetary output for people looking to squeeze every bit out of their ski. We've been doing it on Magnuum pumps for years, and in various different pumps. No one is claiming it as new, or their idea here, just free information on something that does a little for a little effort.

    Why poo poo on a good thing- it's FREE for those who do it themselves.

    David

  10. #10
    Thanks Dave, I would be very happy with .4 mph. In fact, it would be a huge gain in comparison to other mods I am currently doing.
    Last edited by Chowski; 02-22-2008 at 09:40 AM.

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