Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 23
  1. #1

    Leaking Riva IC, Water mixed with Oil, What to Do?

    A brief history on the ski:

    Last time I used my RXP was August of 2006, last race of the season. It was bogging down on the last turn of the course which was a very sharp but fast left hander. Computer indicated a low oil level which I guess put the engine in a limp mode to protect it. Flushed the ski after then put it in storage. I made it a point to start the ski once every month, only for about 5-10 seconds, just to make sure it was still running and nothing would cease up.

    Yesterday, I brought the ski to the sea after more than a year of storage, it started but just bogged down and I couldn't get the revs to rise. So I changed plugs and checked the oil only to see water mixed with it. Siphoned the oil out, refilled then started the ski on the trailer with the flushing hose on. Checked the oil only to see it mixed with water again. Redid the siphon and refiill but still found a lot of water in the oil. Opened the spark plugs and cranked it and water came spurting out of the hole. Total running time with oil mixed with water is around 7mins, idling speed. This is aside from the monthly warm up with revs till 3000rpms.

    Later on we found out that my IC was leaking which forced water into the engine. Most of the water in the engine is fresh water which could have come from 2 sources: Water might be from the time I flushed it on August 2006 or water might be from the test run yerterday and IC may have just developed the leak yeterday as well.

    My question is can I just pull my engine out, drain and flush the contaminated oil then refill again, or do I have to crack open the engine to make sure everything is still ok? What do I have to look out for to be sure the engine is still good? Suggestions?

    And do you think Riva will warranty this intercooler? I have always flusshed my ski after every use. I even use salt away solution to keep everything corrosion free. If not, is it possible to purchase just the intercooler as all of my other parts are still usable?

    John


  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by johnD View Post

    My question is can I just pull my engine out, drain and flush the contaminated oil then refill again, or do I have to crack open the engine to make sure everything is still ok? What do I have to look out for to be sure the engine is still good? Suggestions
    Dear John.......after reading your story NO! all you have to do is follow the "flooded engine" Bo-Bo Sea Doo instruction, it's on page 82 on your owners manual that comes with the ski stock whether you like it or not, the salesman will throw it at you on the way out. by just reading your story I think your engine is fine, unless you have a hidden agenda? Here's what I did. Buy 3 oil filters(Sea Doo OEM) from Jerry's store "Green Hulk 4- tech store"...I'am such a butt kisser Go to Pep Boys and grab a case of the cheapest oil in 10W40 grade. On the trailer, Run the engine on flushing mode over and over untill you get the "Milky" oil out. BUT BEFORE YOU DO THIS, FIX THE ORIGINAL PROBLEM THAT GOT YOU IN THIS KIND OF SITUATION. (Leaking inter cooler) put your old 1 back if you haven't sold it in e-bay Now comes the fun part....You Sir, have to run the crappp out of this ski of your choice of H20 in this Global Warming Planet. You have to open it up, slowly, then WOT. go back to the ramp and change oil and filter again. use pep boys oil again and do the same routine and come back for the last time. change oil again, but this time put the Sea Doo oil 10W40(which I fogot to tell you to buy from Jerry's store) Now, hopefully your back to normal and your baby's happy I have water intrusion twice. first 1, I have to run 14 miles on a salt flooded engine. My RXP got me back home safe. The same engine is still kicking A$$. before I forget, there is a boil out procedure that the manual states. This is the $100.00 Sea Doo Gods manual, not the 1 the salesman threw at you on the way out? Basically, Sea Doo wants you to over heat your engine to get all the condensation out. Frankly, I don't belived in that procedure. I just ran it hard! = "Boil out procedure" = FUN
    Last edited by Jammer 1; 01-28-2008 at 06:09 AM.

  3. #3
    Jammer,
    I guess I have to go and dig up that owner's manual! But what the **ll is the $100.00 Sea Doo Gods manual??? I'll just run it hard after the change oils then, but wouldn't the ordinary Pep boys oil ruin the SC washers? Hidden agenda???

    So all I have to do is to flush it out and ride over and over again. Then ride it hard, I'll give it a go! Thanks!

    John

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by johnD View Post
    Jammer,
    I guess I have to go and dig up that owner's manual! But what the **ll is the $100.00 Sea Doo Gods manual??? I'll just run it hard after the change oils then, but wouldn't the ordinary Pep boys oil ruin the SC washers? Hidden agenda???

    So all I have to do is to flush it out and ride over and over again. Then ride it hard, I'll give it a go! Thanks!

    John
    John, if you have the $ go ahead and buy all the Sea Doo oil. what your'e doing is rinse ing your inside engine of contaminated oil. Your flushing it. BTW, I forgot to tell you to keep using your ski every other day. take a ride even if it's a short 1. This keeps the inside of your engine lubricated and moving. Sea Doo has a service Mechanics manual for $100.00+ or you can try to ask sombody here for a free download. This is the Bible of the "Doo". It's a good bathroom reading material when your'e pinching a loaf.....better than Playboy or Hustler I have ceramic washers on the first and second Bo-Bo.......it won't harm it. the key is to stick on 10W40 grade. after flushing you can buy the Doo oil. Here's an advise. since day 1 I have used Sea Doo products, oil (exept for flushing), filter,etc...it's paying off. Good luck Bro!

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Rydal, Georgia U S A
    Posts
    3,936
    +1
    14
    Riva warrantee an IC? Hell the XS doesn't have that many problems for a quarter of the cost.

  6. #6
    Best of both worlds! RXP & RXT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    123
    At least pull off the cam cover and check that the valve springs and cam havent gone rusty. If you run it with a rusty cam etc it will be like sand going through your motor as it wears off!!

  7. #7
    Hmmm.....taking off the cam cover sounds like a good safety precaution, I just might do that. Thanks!

    Now, anyone here willing to share the Service Manual for the 4tecs?

    John

  8. #8
    Banned User
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    287
    What kinda of water do you ride in salt or fresh? if salt water i have seen the riva ic fail and leak many times already the core just develop holes after continued use and if using bigger than stock sc it takes less time for it to happen i would look into purchasing a rotax ic as it has a copper coil and takes a hell of lot more time to damage or if not a new ic (xs or riva) and add a zinc anode into the water inlet of the ic should help with it to last longer just keep changing the oil and filter till it looks fresh again

  9. #9
    I ride in salt water. I was hoping to either get another Riva IC, but just the IC so I can save a bit of money, or get the Piranha IC which is anodized. Does the Piranha anodized IC last longer than bare IC's? Can't I just ground the IC to the engine to replace the anode? Anode's aren't really very accessible form where I am from. What are these anodes used for anyways?

    John

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by johnD View Post
    I ride in salt water. I was hoping to either get another Riva IC, but just the IC so I can save a bit of money, or get the Piranha IC which is anodized. Does the Piranha anodized IC last longer than bare IC's? Can't I just ground the IC to the engine to replace the anode? Anode's aren't really very accessible form where I am from. What are these anodes used for anyways?

    John
    John, the best way to explain this is riding in salt water we have sharks and they like to eat us....Now, this is one of the reason you bring a friend (a not sooo good friend, somebody that owes you money and won't pay up) When the sharks come and wants to eat you.....you push your "not so good friend for shark bait". Basically, if you look at the back of your ride plate, there is an "Anode" there. it will get ugly as time goes buy. DO NOT PAINT IT. leave it bare. It's Job is to be ugly, like my ex-girlfreind it's job is to protect your boat from getting eatten up, so called sacrificial Anode...just like your not so good friend If you want the technical version, I can tell you an electrolisis story and about it's theory.
    Last edited by Jammer 1; 01-30-2008 at 03:17 AM.

Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 25
    Last Post: 07-15-2015, 01:21 PM
  2. Water mixing with oil
    By old school gp in forum Yamaha PWC Performance (4-stroke)
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 08-31-2011, 06:50 PM
  3. Riva IC VS. Rotax IC??? what to do...
    By daredevil828 in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 20
    Last Post: 08-08-2008, 09:26 AM
  4. Leaking Riva IC what will it do?
    By mstennes in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 07-13-2008, 10:43 PM
  5. RIVA IC water hose outlet ?
    By MIARider in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 11-14-2007, 05:03 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •