Results 1 to 6 of 6
  1. #1
    Chine Walker
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    598

    Do the PV shafts need to be removed to get the valves out?

    Once you remove the actuating arm and the brass collar in the box is it possible to pull the valve past the shaft??
    Thanks,

    jp


  2. #2
    Moderator OsideBill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    11,875
    +1
    30
    I checked the manual and it states Yes. I have never tried it though you never know. Be a pioneer and see if it will come out. Just don't force any thing that shaft will bend.

  3. #3
    Not possible without removing the shafts.

    You can't remove the actuator arm with out removing the shafts, The brass collar is part of the PV assembly.

    What you'll need to do is remove each the actuator arm screws, the couplers, the shaft "C" clips, and then slide all the shafts to the rear and out the rear cylinder.

  4. #4
    Chine Walker
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    598
    I was affraid I'd get 2 opposing opinions. In response to WaveEater; it's not not a question of removing the actuating arm from the shaft, but rather removing the set screw in order to rotate the arm upwards enough to allow the PV pin to lift out of the arm's groove. From the pic below, it seems if the arm rotates up enough the valve will pull out, provided the retaining collar screw is removed.
    The offset between the valve channel and the shaft seems to allow removal. With the collar loose, the valve will have wiggle room.

    jp
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_6162a tight.jpg 
Views:	38 
Size:	534.1 KB 
ID:	56204  

  5. #5
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    25,929
    +1
    1,407
    The valve will clear but not the bushing. Rotate the valve closed and remove the screw then remove the clip and pull the shaft out.

  6. #6
    Chine Walker
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    598
    Ok, I guess there's no way around it; the shafts will have to come out. I was just having to avoid the whole jumping clip exercise. Does anyone change the seals at the ends of the boxes when removing the shafts?? Seems that the clip grooves on the shafts may damage the seal lip when removing and installing.
    Looks like I'll be going to Klotz or Amsoil after they're clean; cleaning these things every 30-40 hrs seems tedious. I must say, there is a definate difference between free working PVs and gummed up ones; the mid-range punch is much more pronounced.
    Thanks to all for your replies...

    jp

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Does this drive shaft need to be replaced?
    By imp0ster in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 01-25-2013, 08:19 AM
  2. Replies: 38
    Last Post: 12-19-2012, 07:28 PM
  3. Do i need to get an aftermarket Ride plate for my FZR
    By bigbear in forum Yamaha PWC Performance (4-stroke)
    Replies: 24
    Last Post: 04-23-2010, 05:38 PM
  4. HELP i need to get me and my ski to the bug
    By rapidacceleration in forum Mudbug Nationals PWC.Life Rally
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 05-30-2007, 10:07 AM
  5. Why you need to get the water out of you ski ASAP
    By Lvnspeed in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 01-01-2007, 10:22 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •