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  1. #1

    Whats a better ride plate; Riva or R&D?

    Which one is better for closed course racing, stock class??


  2. #2
    Moderated
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    neither haha


    the modded ( like mod 4 IR or Jim FF) r&d's are hell fast but they are designed for smooth conditions....

    try stock plate or shred master for rough , i had best results with those two.....note i dont race and i am assuming the conditions are rough as all footage i have seen of cc racing thuss far has looked pretty rough..

    some add a 2" extention to their stock plates for better rough water hookup or so i am told.

    anyway best to wait till some cc racers chime in...
    Last edited by izz0; 02-04-2008 at 03:55 AM.

  3. #3

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    Smile

    for closed course racing the best plate i found was the shredmaster. i have tried riva, r&d, stock and protec and none of them came close to the handling of the shreddie

  4. #4
    billy's gpr's Avatar
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    ride plate

    my super stock,runs the early riva skegged plate,handles awesome,but i have never tried the shred master plate

  5. #5
    Moderator OsideBill's Avatar
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    FYI: The early Riva skegged plate was made by R&D and is identical to the one R&D still sells. The Pro-Tec plate is a stock plate copied and extended a bit. The newer Riva plates tend to slide in the corners. I don't race but I have owned all these plates. I think for serious CC you would want the Shred as it keeps the nose down and carves good.
    Last edited by OsideBill; 02-04-2008 at 09:51 AM.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by OsideBill View Post
    FYI: The early Riva skegged plate was made by R&D and is identical to the one R&D still sells.
    Actually theyre different than the current R&D version. The mounting bosses are thicker and the center surface angle was changed a little.
    This was done to clear the 2" extension.
    The "original" R&D's and Rivas were the fastest.

    Being the "PIONEERS OF RIDEPLATE MODS" that we are ( toot toot (tooting our own horn)) when the 1300R first came out we bought one to IMMEDIATELY do testing and one of the first mods was to adapt one of our MODDED 1200 PLATES plate to the 1300 --- ONE FAAAAAST PLATE!!!!!!!!!

  7. #7
    Seems the shred may be something to try. Turning on a gpr sucks. I need something to keep the nose down. One problem I always have is coming out of the water, never staying hooked up on the back stretch. Would all of these plates be about the same for helping me stay hooked. It seems the intake grate is the most help to keeping you in the water. Correct??

    Thanks

  8. #8
    mrbtd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WAGZ102 View Post
    Seems the shred may be something to try. Turning on a gpr sucks. I need something to keep the nose down. One problem I always have is coming out of the water, never staying hooked up on the back stretch. Would all of these plates be about the same for helping me stay hooked. It seems the intake grate is the most help to keeping you in the water. Correct??

    Thanks
    You need sponsons - but they will turn.

  9. #9
    philip_gpr's Avatar
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    Not that many GPRs get raced in stock class. The problem is in stock form the GPR doesn't handle that well running buoys and it is a little slow out of the hole.

    The following ideas will make a significant improvement.

    Depending on where you are racing the rules may or may not allow some of these changes.

    Rideplate options
    1. stock
    2. Shred
    3. carbon fiber R Pot

    I wouldn’t suggest you use any of the Riva or R&D plates

    Intake Grate
    R&D single bar

    Sponsons
    Any of the aftermarket sponsons are a big improvement over the stock ones. For stock class the best ones you can get are these. They are the only aftermarket sponsons that will help keep the front of the ski down

    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=21385

    Impeller
    Skat-track full swirl impeller for a GP1200R get a 13/19, for a GP1300R get a 14/20
    http://www.skat-trak.com/watercraft.html

    Trim tabs
    This is where your rules may prevent any changes, if you are allowed to make changes shim the tabs down with 3 washers under all 8 bolts (if the rules prevent this maybe only use 1 washer under all 8 bolts and nobody will notice – I won’t tell)

    Pump nozzle
    Again the rules probably get in the way, but the XL1200 or XLT1200 pump nozzle makes a big improvement. The XL nozzle can be easily recognized because it has a set of mounting holes for the reverse bucket, if these holes were filled in with something like JB Weld then it would be hard to tell the difference between the XL nozzle and the GPR nozzle. The XL nozzle is on a 3 degree angle (the GPR is 5 degrees) Using the XL nozzle will help the ski stay hooked up in rough water.

    Seat cover, mats
    Hydroturf

    In my “Blue Ski” post, at the bottom, I describe my handling set-up and I provide some links to other threads where I talk about handling mods.

    http://rivaforums.com/eve/forums?a=tpc&s=6446095904&f=4886094314&m=257106609 3&r=2571066093#2571066093

    If I can help let me know, Philip
    [email protected]
    Last edited by philip_gpr; 02-04-2008 at 08:59 PM.

  10. #10
    I appreciate all the help guys. Thanks!!! I do know the GPR is tuff in Stock class as i have been running it for 3 years. I do have the sponsons and intake grate. However dont have an aftermarket ride plate. Unless someone else speaks up it seems the R&D and Riva plates are not worth the money.

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