Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1
    stifun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    San Antonio
    Posts
    662
    +1
    88

    Thumbs up New Owner of 2000 Sea Doo Speedster 240efi has some questions

    Hey guy's I am the lucky owner of this awsome Sport Boat just picked her up in immaculate condition and have a couple of maintenace questions for you.

    1. Previous owner bought from a dealer and boat is running fine but no maintenace has been done since about 2004 till now as the boat run's fine.

    2. What items should I replace to have some peace of mind as the boat run's fine but I was thinking of at least replacing the sparkplugs what else should I buy to make sure the boat stays in tip top shape.

    3. I have heard that on these boat's you should replace the intake grate with a fixed tine grate where can I purchase one any websites to look for the part.


    Thanks in Advance

    Alex


  2. #2
    stifun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    San Antonio
    Posts
    662
    +1
    88
    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

  3. #3
    steach's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Rock Tavern, NY
    Posts
    3,174
    +1
    174
    Change the plugs. Change the jet pump oil. Lube the controls & cables. Flush after every ride.

    If you plan to jump wakes(which it does great) keep hard objects out of the bow.

    Stock grate was fine.

  4. #4
    Jeepster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Quebec, Canada
    Posts
    754
    I agree with all said here EXCEPT about the stock grate....this absolutely need to be removed and changed A.S.A.P....Stock grate has some spring loaded tines, and as they wear out, the spring breaks so the metal tine does....and it end up being sucked inside your pump either damaging it, or simply blocking it, now you may end up stalled somewhere on the water with a metal tine jammed inside your pump trashing your impeller....not ideal.

    That's why it is really recommended to remove the stock intake grate and to replace it with a fixed tines one...it is written on many discussion forums on the net. Used boats often already have missing tines on their grates...a clear signs of weakness.

    Also....i'd have the 2 stroke oil injection pump gear inspected and replaced with a metal aftermarket gear if available (just the gear not the whole pump), as these little plastic gears were prone to fail in case the engine overheats...and without this little gear...no oil injected and guess what...a seized engine in no time...have it at least checked.

    Here are some links to few sites talking about the Mercury powerplants in Sea-Doo:

    This one in particular...speaks about Merc only, and has 22 pages of very good informations, i'm sure you'll find what you need there....
    http://jetboating.net/jetboating/com...aspx?forumid=8

    http://www.network54.com/Forum/143168/

    http://seadoosportboats.com/forums/index.php?act=idx

    http://jetboating.net/jetboating/com...rums/main.aspx

    Good reading...
    Last edited by Jeepster; 02-15-2008 at 12:51 PM.

  5. #5

    Fuel filters

    need love too. 4 years is a long time, it should be changed out. 240s
    and Optimax are touchy about fuel starvation....like any two stroke. Unlike
    the Rotax, these are really expensive to replace if one burns down.
    Everything else stated is on the money. I have seen electric oil pumps,
    but really over kill. You might look into a water strainer on the intake. Could
    prevent plugging/ overheating if you tend to poke around shallow waters.

  6. #6
    stifun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    San Antonio
    Posts
    662
    +1
    88

    Thanks

    Thanks for all the valuable info I already have the sparkplugs waiting for the manual and buying today the fuel/water separator filter. Is there any other filter to buy like oil filter. Oh and getting the pump oil too are the filter and pump oil hard to change out.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by stifun View Post
    I already have the sparkplugs waiting for the manual and buying today the fuel/water separator filter. Is there any other filter to buy like oil filter.
    There is an oil filter, but it's embedded in an expensive hose in the oil system. I haven't changed it (yet).

    There are three fuel filters: The inline one to which the fuel tank line attaches, the fuel/water separating filter, and the final filter within the vapor separator. I replace the first two every year without exception. I haven't changed the final one (yet).

    Oh and getting the pump oil too are the filter and pump oil hard to change out.
    Copied from my earlier post on this topic:

    Changing the lube in the Mercury M2 jetdrive

    There are two lube areas on the M2: The front of the impeller shaft (where the driveshaft and impeller shaft are connected via a set of bevel gears) and the rear of the impeller shaft (inside the stator). To do this job you’ll need a metric socket set, large flatblade screwdriver, 1/4 inch Allen wrench, two bottles of Mercury Premium Plus Gear Lube, Mercury lube hand pump, oil drain pan, wire brush, thread sealant, antiseize, and blue (medium strength) Loctite.

    Adjust the trailer jack so the ride plate on the jetdrive is level.

    Remove the center (fill/drain) plug in front of the intake grate. Use a large flatblade so you don’t ding up the screw. Don’t lose the little fiber washer underneath the screw.

    Remove the off-center (vent) plug. The lube will begin draining. Inspect the lube for white streaks or foam (indicates water) or metal specks (indicates wear in the bevel gears). Let the lube drain into the pan while you begin working on the stator lube.

    Disconnect the steering and thrust reverser cables.

    Remove the four bolts holding the steering nozzle and thrust reverser to the jetdrive. Remove the assembly and set it aside.

    Remove the four bolts holding the stator to the jetdrive. The stator will probably “stick” gently to the wear ring for now.

    Return to the front lube area. Screw the pump hose into the center hole. Install the pump into the first bottle of lube. Begin pumping. You’ll use all of the first bottle and some of the second. Switch bottles when necessary. Eventually, the lube will start coming out of the off-center vent hole, which has a tube inside; when the lube is full it reaches the top of the tube and comes down through the vent hole.

    Reinstall the off-center vent screw with its fiber washer and a dab of thread sealant on its threads. Unscrew the pump hose and reinstall the centered fill screw in the same way. The front lube is done.

    Return to the stator area with the drain pan. Position the pan under the front of the stator. Pull STRAIGHT rearward on the stator to release it from the wear ring. If it sticks, tap gently with a rubber or plastic mallet. Continue pulling STRAIGHT back until the stator slides off the end of the impeller shaft. Lube will immediately begin draining. Set the stator face down on the drain pan to finish draining. Inspect the lube for white streaks or foam (indicates water).

    It is important to remove and reinstall the stator straight along the impeller shaft so the impeller seal is not damaged.

    Once the stator has drained, remove the center hex screw from the tip of the stator cone. Turn the stator over and let the remaining lube drain out. There’s always a little residual lube in there and this lets it all come out.

    Inspect the impeller and wear ring for nicks, dings, and damage.

    While the stator is draining, use the wire brush to clean the threads of all eight screws removed from the rear of the jetdrive.

    Once the stator is completely drained, gently reinstall it on the back of the wear ring. Reinstall the associated screws using a dab of thread sealant, antiseize, or a very small amount of blue Loctite. Tighten in rotation and don’t overdo it; you’re tightening stainless steel bolts into aluminum threads. The service manual has torque specs but I just use my judgement.

    Reinstall the center hex plug with a dab of thread sealant. Remove the top hex plug. Insert the lube pump hose (it won’t thread, you’ll have to hold it) and begin pumping. Fill until the lube reaches the bottom of the fill hole’s threads. Reinstall the top hex plug with a dab of thread sealant. The rear lube is done.

    Reinstall the steering nozzle and thrust reverser assembly using a dab of thread sealant, antiseize, or a very small amount of blue Loctite. Again, tighten in rotation and don’t overdo it; you’re tightening stainless steel bolts into aluminum threads.

    Reconnect the steering and thrust reverser cables. Confirm smooth operation of both from the driver’s seat. All done!

    Time to complete: ~2 hours the first time, ~1 hour once you’ve done it before.

    I do this every autumn as part of winterization. I also change all six plugs and replace both fuel filters. There is an engine winterization process involving what Mercury calls “witch’s brew” that I’ll post here someday if anyone is interested. It was emailed to me directly from Mercury’s own technicians and is what they do in the factory to their own engines.

    Hope this helps!

  8. #8
    stifun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    San Antonio
    Posts
    662
    +1
    88
    Thanks for all the great info I have done all of the maintenance issues and I am so happy with the boat. Now all I need is some nice Hydroturf mat kit and I am set for the summer.



    Thanks all for the help.

  9. #9
    stifun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    San Antonio
    Posts
    662
    +1
    88
    Thanks for all the great info I have done all of the maintenance issues and I am so happy with the boat. Now all I need is some nice Hydroturf mat kit and I am set for the summer.



    Thanks all for the help.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 375
    Last Post: 10-14-2011, 09:02 PM
  2. 2000 sea-doo xp problems w/ new engine.
    By bombar2233 in forum Sea Doo Open Discussion
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 07-31-2011, 11:04 PM
  3. 2000 Sea Doo Xp. What do you think of this jet setup.
    By Mtuned in forum 2-Stroke Performance
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 08-16-2010, 02:35 PM
  4. Replies: 6
    Last Post: 08-25-2007, 03:40 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •