Thread: Speaker Help
02-16-2008, 05:50 PM #1
I have a Speedster 150 and Iím waiting for my new Clarion M475 head unit to arrive. I have already purchased the I-Rock remote control for it and I now need to order replacement speakers. I donít want to make any modifications if I donít have to but I do want the best sound I can get for reasonable price. The Kicker KM620 looks like a good speaker to me but before I buy them I would like to see what other boaters have bought and how they like them. Also I donít want to install a Woofer at time but would a small amp help get better sound out of these speakers? Thanks all.
02-16-2008, 06:33 PM #2
02-16-2008, 07:21 PM #3
Then you want the Alpine M600 Marine Speakers
I just finished installing them with my Clarion M475 Head-Unit and the system sounds amazing.
The Alpines make it sound like I have a sub mounted inside the engine compartment.
I did here that sea doo changed over to JVC speakers for the 2008 150 speedsters so I can't confirm that the Alpines will match up with the stock JVC screw holes.
I can confirm that they match up perfectly with stock clarion speakers though
Hope this helps....
Here is a photo of my new Alpines Installed in my 2006 Sportster
Last edited by holdnon72; 06-28-2008 at 08:17 PM.
02-16-2008, 09:06 PM #4
- Join Date
- Jan 2007
- Lakeland, FL
I haven't heard the Alpines, though they certainly look good, but I have Polk MOMO MMC650s in mine. Something I notice between the speakers:
Stock Clarions: 2-50 watts RMS
Alpine SPS-M600: 2-35 watts RMS
Polk MOMO MMC650: 10-80 watts RMS
By the specs, the stock speakers could handle more power, but the point is moot unless you're going with an amp, since a head unit only will be pushing just 20 watts RMS or so.
I just bought the amp that Jeepster got (Audiobahn A4002T), because my speakers can handle so much more than my head unit can give. Currently, I can't turn the volume all the way up without distortion, and I can't really hear it at full throttle. I should have the amp installed in a week or so, and I'll report back.
02-16-2008, 09:43 PM #5
All I can say is for you guys that don't want to use an amp with your stereo.
The Clarion M475 Head-Unit+Alpine M600 Speakers = 1 Kick Azz Sounding System.
It puts the stock system to shame
Here's a few more pics of the Alpines and How I modified the stock speaker baskets.
Come On Spring!
Last edited by holdnon72; 06-28-2008 at 08:17 PM.
02-16-2008, 11:02 PM #6
VX1, be careful when you power on that amp IT IS POWERFUL...turn the gain control down on the amp to lower it, because just to give you an idea, yesterday i hooked it to the 10 inch Kicker Subwoofer i purchased and guess what....IN 4 Ohms bridged, (not even at 2 ohms) at full gain power 100% i could drive like hell a 400W RMS subwoofer...! So bringing the gain control down to start with is needed, then power up more if necessary.
This amplifier is simply UNDERRATED on specs power....it is much more powerful than what is stated.
Which makes me a happy customer once again...
Last edited by Jeepster; 02-17-2008 at 11:46 AM.
02-17-2008, 08:04 AM #7
- Join Date
- Jan 2007
- Lakeland, FL
Thanks, Jeeps. You know, I almost went with the A200T, which is half as powerful, for less money, but then I thought "if I'm going through the pain of installing an amp, I've got to make sure I'm never wanting of power again".
I have to admit, I know a lot about a lot of things, but the subject of amps isn't one of them. This is a two channel amp, does each speaker get its own channel? And how would a sub be powered also? (I'm already thinking ahead.)
02-17-2008, 08:47 AM #8
Thanks everyone for the feedback. For all you more knowable than me on speakers (and thatís everyone) what do you think of the Kicker KM620 speakers. My thought is the specs seem to say they are a capable speaker and if is I decide to add an amp later they should be able to handle them right? Also I had a store tech recommend the MTX TM6502 speakers what do you think of these?
Kicker KM620 speakers
- 2 way speakers
- Polypropylene woofer
- Water resistant
- UV resistant
- Rubber Surround
- Sealed motor
- Titanium dome tweeter
- Cone with locking terminal covers
- 35-21,000 Hz Frequency Response
- 2-65 watts RMS
- 195 watts Peak Power
- 90 dB Sensitivity
02-17-2008, 11:24 AM #9
I was a professionnal car audio system installer/builder for many years so i can explain a bit...
Alloy89: These Kickers are good to go no worries, in my jetboat i got a deal for 4x Kickers KS65 speakers and they are way better than the oem Clarions, probably very similar to the alpine ones, as for MTX...i can not tell never had this brand before.
VX1: If you only hook 2 STD 4 Ohms speaker to that amp, Make sure that these settings are on the amp....
-X-OVER switch to 'full' position
(this cuts some frequency unwanted, you want them all with std speaker)
-BASS BOOST, on or off depending on your preference/speakers
-SUB SONIC switch to off position (not needed with STD speaker)
-LEVEL this is the gain control, this is the one to reduce to start with.
-DO NOT CARE bout the other dials you don't need them for STD spk.
OK, now to adjust the gain properly, what you should do is:
-If you are used with your radio, you should know to which point you can raise the volume up BEFORE you start hearing distortion.
(For example....to raise the volume until the number XX after that the sound would begin being distorted).
-IF so....turn the amp LEVEL to the lowest possible setting.
-Then turn the radio volume to the highest good numer attainable.
-Then slwoly adjust the amp gain up, until you find the max volume ok for your speakers.....you are done...!!!
-That way each time you crank up the radio volume to this highest volume point, the max power the amp will be able to deliver will be limited by the gain LEVEL of the amp.
This is the correct way to adjust the gain of an amplifier to be safe for your speakers.
Last edited by Jeepster; 02-17-2008 at 11:56 AM.
02-17-2008, 11:37 AM #10
As far as how to hook the STD speakers to the amp now....
Power to the amp, very simple....battery + to amp +, battery - to amp ground, and radio antenna power +12V to the amp remote terminal (this is used to power the amp ON whenever you turn your radio on, meaning that if there is no power on that wire.....the amp won't power on.
*Don't forget to put a wire in-line fuse on the + wire from the battery to the amp*
If that wire becomes cut and short somewhere...that fuse would prevent a fire to burn your boat down...!!!
As the fuse on the amp itself only prevent the amp to blow, not the battery/wiring to catch fire...!
2x 4 Ohms speakers, really simple, respect the polarity of the speakers, and plug on each speaker to one each channel of the amp, just like regular + on +, - on - for each side left and right, nothing fancy.
Now if you were about to hook a subwoofer to that amp, you would be better to power your speaker from the radio directly (not from the same amp), and then you should measure the subwoofer resistance, often it is written on the magnet, sometimes 4 Ohms, sometimes 2 Ohms.
Now the hook up is different...look at the point where you regularly hook the speaker wires to the amp....there is a little Bridged mode schematic, this shows that for a subwoofer you should hook it differently than for a speaker....put the + and the - wires exactly where shown...you'll instantly get twice/quad the output power that you'd get from the regular hook up.(meaning if the amp normally gives 100W per channel it should give you up to 200-400W for this mono channel depending on the amp specs)
In other words...bridging means that you actually take all the amplifier total power and send it ton a single MONO channel...best for a sturdy capable speaker....like a subwoofer.
---NOTE: You can NOT, and shouldn't plug std speakers + a MONO bridge mode subwoofer...the amp would try to direct all it's power to many place at time....and ...toast both your std speaker.....and probably also the amp very soon.....DO NOT plug both bridge+regular speaker on top it is one or the other.
For this one...if you got a 4 ohms subwoofer....you'll get 200 Watts RMS, and if you subwoofer is a 2 ohms unit, then you'll get 400Watts RMS of output.
For sure now you got to tune all the switches differently:
Begin to make the Gain LEVEL adjustment versus the radio level for optimum power delivery to the subwoofer (this is the preliminary adjustement 1 of the gain, as you need it to be rechecked after everything is tuned for a subwoofer).
-X OVER switch positionned to HPF (high pass filter) cuts the high frequencies, try it out to different positions, you'll see it either cuts the bass, cuts the highs, or let everything pass, for a sub you need to cut the highs.
-Then use the HPF screw to adjust to which point you want a precise cut off of these frequencies.
-BASS BOOST definitely ON
-SUB SONIC is set on, then adjust the dial for optimum response versus your subwoofer.
Now all that is left to do is recheck if the gain control is still ok, or if once very nicely tuned, you can push a little bit even more the power output now that all the frequencies are tuned ok with the othe adjustments.
Last edited by Jeepster; 02-17-2008 at 12:02 PM.
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