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  1. #1
    KC Blue Thunder's Avatar
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    2007 GTX-SC Limited electrical problems

    My07 GTX- Limited has started to develop some electrical problems that may or may not be associated with the installation of Rivas Stage1 Kit. I opted not removing the air box that sits next to the fuel tank, less maintanance and it really doesnt impact the stage1 installation.... OK, Ok i was just damn lazy. Not so long ago during a run down the intracostal waterway to St. Augusting it stated beeping without any visible codes or anything else visible on the display console, performance never seemed unafected, so we proceeded with the days events, Upon post use cleaning i noticed that the console was flashing SENSOR but no code. I took it to the dealer and they said that they noticed that the Regulator/Rectifier thats mounted on the air box was loose, they tightened it reset the computer for the codes and and ran it in their
    tub. Checked 4.0. Did 2 more runs after that without no simptoms. But yesterday it started again this time there was a code PO562 Battery voltage low and the beepeing returned, also the battery symbol on the console was flashing, no performance discrepancies noted. Soon after that the ski sucked a chunk of wood that ruined the rest of the trip,I couldnt go faster than 5 MPH but thanks to my bud Robert he towed me back to the marina, i didnt pinch the rear hose as recommended when towing and left the motor runing at trolling speed 5 MPH. Before being towed we removed every fuse, they were all good. But it never beeped or
    flashed the battery while being towed. Checked for battery voltage at the house and it was 12.71 Vlts. I thought that maybe it was the voltage regulator/rectifier acting up again since its attached to the stock air box and there is no air flowing thru it because of the cold air intake on the Stage1, I relocated it to the bracket supplied from the stage1 kit and did as the instructions said, install it next to the battery. It appears to be sealed so water intrusion shouldnt be a problem. Before i check this again or take it back to the dealer and wait for them to take their sweet ass time getting around to this i was wondering if anyone else may have ran into this situation. On a good note the chunk of wood was removed after removing the rear pump assy. We could'nt have ever done it in the water, my props to Jerry, Jeff, his friend and his son, and Doel. Especially to Robert the Beast for taking a dip in the cold ass water to hook the rope, tow me, and remove the chunk of wood from the prop, with friends like these guys I'll ride to the end of the world. Chime in if you have ideas on my dilema. Thanks.


  2. #2
    AKA: Larry lafjax's Avatar
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    Welcome KC!!
    Sounds like your rectifier is bad. Maybe you could swap with one from the buddies and see if that fixes it. Todd had the same problem but high voltage, found a used rectifier and swapped it out, is fine now.

  3. #3
    bigdeez's Avatar
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    well for one the senor thing when you took your ski out of the water to clean and run it is due to lack of water for the depth finderthats what they have always doen when they are out of water. Take your connections of your battery and double checkthe connections. and if you want to test your voltage output. with your ski off it should read around 12.4 to 12.7, start the ski and bring the rpm up to 3500 and see if the voltage goes up. it should be close to 15 but no more then 18. your battery light will go on if it is over or under charged. also check your grounds!!!!!

    Hope this helps.

    D

  4. #4
    Ditto:

    check all the connectors that you may have disturbed while installing the stage one. anytime you work on the ski you really should remove the negative cable on the battery, just common practice.

    the 12.7 is just about normal, when sitting and not running.
    try as suggested and run the ski on the hose and note any differences with the voltage using a volt meter (fluke meter).

    I ran the rectifier on the airbox an entire season without issues. I did flip the rectifier over, so fins are up and used longer screws to hold it in place. There is adequate air flow to cool it...

    it would be quite a coincidence if the rectifier quit, but hey it`s an electrical item and sometimes it just happens.
    also check connections coming from PTO housing above SC, follow those wires and you`ll see the connections, make sure all of these are pushed together.
    Let us know what you find...

  5. #5
    KC Blue Thunder's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

    Thanks for the advise guys will give it a try tommorrow and post the results.

  6. #6
    KC Blue Thunder's Avatar
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    Exclamation

    Hey guys I checked and double check all connections and the grounds, they all looked good. after swapping the rectifier next to the battery The battery had a little over 12 Vts. Ran the ski with the hose to 3500-3600 RPM and took another reading off the battery while at that RPM range and it read 1471 Vts. The reading that you guys said I should have was 1500-1800 Vts. does this confirm that the rectifier is AFU. I will put it in the water tommorrow to see if i can duplicate the problem. Todd it looks as if Im going to need tha retifier after all but i would like to hear whats the general consensus from the guys, so chime in. Thanks.

  7. #7
    bigdeez's Avatar
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    wrote you back on the jax general discuss

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Blue Thunder View Post
    Hey guys I checked and double check all connections and the grounds, they all looked good. after swapping the rectifier next to the battery The battery had a little over 12 Vts. Ran the ski with the hose to 3500-3600 RPM and took another reading off the battery while at that RPM range and it read 1471 Vts. The reading that you guys said I should have was 1500-1800 Vts. does this confirm that the rectifier is AFU. I will put it in the water tommorrow to see if i can duplicate the problem. Todd it looks as if Im going to need tha retifier after all but i would like to hear whats the general consensus from the guys, so chime in. Thanks.
    A fully charged battery yields 12.6 volts for the 4-tec.
    I can`t seem to find any spec in the service manual for volts DC.
    I did find volts AC (VAC) testing at the stator and various connections, and this gets quite complicated without specs in front of you and the correct diagnostic adapters. Some areas you could probe the pins with a meter.

    14.7 volts is good. to high of a voltage can cook the battery to death.
    if you battery is doing fine, and you have consistent 12V+ at the battery I would water test the ski again with a buddy rider in case something fails again...

    it could also be intermitten, short in the wiring which is more difficult to trace without tearing into the harness after all possible solutions have been met.
    Last edited by Pale Rider; 02-22-2008 at 08:08 PM.

  9. #9
    KC Blue Thunder's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

    Guys thanks for the help i went with Robert to St Augustin this morning it was a perfect run, the water was like glass, mid 70's temp. No complications had the trotlle peged to 70 for a least 3-4 minutes, jumped a couple boat wakes didnt even studder or beeped once, Oh! I'll take that back it did beep but that was when i reached a 1/4 left of gas. I figure it was either a loose fuse or the rectifier overheating, but its fine now, the world as i know it is in harmony again, thanks guys for the suggestions.

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