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Thread: EMS problems

  1. #1
    Site Admin Green Hulk's Avatar
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    EMS problems

    As most of you guys are aware im having problems getting my EMS to run right.

    The problem im having is once i get into the 7000-8000 RPM range the ski starts bogging out. Kinda like its hitting the limiter and the limiter is kicking it back.

    Things i have done so far to try and rectify the problem are:
    Changed plugs
    Changed ignition coils
    Tried leaning it out
    Tried richening it up
    Tried less boost (stock SC)
    Tried the 3 injector map vs. 6 injector map
    Tried a new ECU
    Nils and i went over each plug and made sure the right wires were in the right place.
    Fuel pressure is pegged out!
    Compression is 125/125/25

    What can my problem be???

    Im about to pull my hair out


  2. #2
    Site Admin Green Hulk's Avatar
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    I suspected the crank position sensor, but just found in the manual how to test it.

    While cranking the engine and probing the connector coming from the CPS you should get a reading of 1-2 VAC. I was within spec.

    You can also measure resistance and it should be between 190-290 ohms. I was at 262 ohms.

    So it appears the CPS is fine, but could there be an alignment problem with the encoder wheel that could be causing the symptoms im seeing?

  3. #3
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    If you were getting sync errors the RPM would be erratic. Check the cam reference sensor. It could cause problems also.

    Is there a error page, that stores codes? Or maybe a flashing boot-up LED?

    I’m able to “stream data” from my laptop to run my ECM just like the engine is running for test reasons.. Maybe Igni-power can send you a signal generator type program to test yours?

    Only other thing is to hook up the engine/coils to a oscilloscope and see what the signals look like.

    Bout all I know with what you got.

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    I assume you have provided sensors.. but as a rule..

    For hall effect the minimum is 6mm x 6mm x 6mm and the maximum tooth length is 10mm.
    For magnetic sensors the minimum is 3mm x 3mm x 3mm and the maximum tooth length is 6mm.

    the teeth should be evenly spaced. this is very important also the crank trigger wheel must be less the 0.127mm ( 0.005" ) runout

    Now,, if you have a reluctor for a mag sensor. You may look at the wires routing,, keep it away from RF and other wire, it could have interference.


    Sync Lost: hummm,... how about??

    Loose connections.
    The -ve and +ve on magnetic sensor is around the wrong way.
    The cam signal is occurring the same time as one of the crank signals
    Interference from ignition system
    Wires going to ignition coils are bundled with the crank and cam signal wires.
    CDI ground wires bundled with other ECU or CDI wires.
    CDI coil wires not twisted.
    Reluctor interface not wired directly to the sensors.
    Reluctor interface shielded wires extended with other wire.
    Wrong type of material used for the cam tooth. (should be non- magnetic mild steel)
    Wrong type of material used for the crankshaft trigger wheel.

    i know this deal can be fustrating when your new to it, and its not easy without support. just keep pluging away at it.

    shawn

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    Site Admin Green Hulk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NitroShark
    If you were getting sync errors the RPM would be erratic. Check the cam reference sensor. It could cause problems also.
    Now this jogg's my memory. The reason i ripped my engine apart to begin with was because i broke a cam chain. The sensor code i got when this happened was "cam sensor out of range", or something to that effect.

    Im wondering if the cam chain could have slapped the sensor causing it to get whacky?

    There is a test for the sensor in the manual, but i need a 1200 ohm resistor.

    What i did do though is take the sensor out of my wifes ski and put in mine and will give it a run tomorrow. However, i was disappointed to see that when i put my sensor in her ski it didn't kick back a trouble code, but then again it may only act up in the 7000 RPM range???

    Is this plausable?

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    Quote Originally Posted by NitroShark
    Is there a error page, that stores codes? Or maybe a flashing boot-up LED?
    Unfortunately no!

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    Quote Originally Posted by NitroShark
    also the crank trigger wheel must be less the 0.127mm ( 0.005" ) runout
    check for runout (and air gap) and maybe the cam sensor mounting got bumped.

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    you do know the cam trigger(reference sensor) event MUST happen within a certain time frame.. maybe? your sensor is not set correct. you have slotted sprockets right.

    this program is written in VB to show you the relationship of a cam sensor to crank to have the right sync..

    keep in mind its for my system NOT your igni-power, but you get the idea. Why its important… and how it could be a problem.

    http://www.garrigans.com/topfuel/Aut_trigger.zip

  9. #9
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    Oh wow! Yes, our cam chain sprockets are slotted. So lets say its too far advanced... it could throw the sync off?

  10. #10
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    not the cam timing but . it depends if the sensor plate is on the sprocket and will it move? could be just a tad out of range..

    run the zip file i posted above and understand how sensor (not cam timing) is important..

    just a thought

    sg

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