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  1. #1
    There is no VooDoo like BadVooDoo NeVerMind's Avatar
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    Yet ANOTHER engine build with questions.

    Ok, so last year my starter locked up... I thought I blew up the block so I tore it all down... Turns out I was getting water in the front cover and the bendix and starter rusted.

    So now I am following the Fercho Engine build method and I am about to install my crank into the cases.

    Here is my first (of many I'm sure) question. I never took off the flywheel. Should I take it off now, or just leave it on when I drop in the crank. Everything is looking good on the crank and flywheel..

    Also, what should the flywheel bolt be torqued to? (I know that it was reccomended it be higher than OEM spec)

    Thanks (and pics will follow)


  2. #2
    WE DONT DIAL 911 RDH's Avatar
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    GPR right?

    you dont need to take the flywheel off to put the crank in the cases.

    get a manual, its got all the torque specs in it.. ive heard over torque it too, but be careful dont strip the crank... use some loctite also

  3. #3
    Hydrotherapy's Avatar
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    you are fitting new crank case seals ??

  4. #4
    Flying Scotsman's Avatar
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    You need to use new crank seals or them may leak.
    So you need to have the flywheel and coupler off to get to the seals.

  5. #5
    There is no VooDoo like BadVooDoo NeVerMind's Avatar
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    the Crank Seals have only Approx 10-12 hours on them. They were put in when a friend sank my boat the the previous year. They are in GREAT shape... Do I still need to replace?

    If so, what's the best way to get the ends off (flywheel and coupler)?

  6. #6
    WE DONT DIAL 911 RDH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NeVerMind View Post
    the Crank Seals have only Approx 10-12 hours on them. They were put in when a friend sank my boat the the previous year. They are in GREAT shape... Do I still need to replace?

    If so, what's the best way to get the ends off (flywheel and coupler)?

    if they still feel like good rubber your probably ok...if there dry and cracked replace them......

    get it off with lots of heat, a vice and a cheater bar...

  7. #7
    Flying Scotsman's Avatar
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    They might be good what if there not ?
    Cheap easy fix you have the crank out anyway

    I would say there good with only 10 hours but there a bitch to clean.
    How are you going to get the 1211 of them so they seal right.

    I have a few old seals siting here,same thing I pulled a motor with 4 or 5 hours on it saved the old seals and put in new.

  8. #8
    There is no VooDoo like BadVooDoo NeVerMind's Avatar
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    The dealer put the block back together and there is NO 1211 on the seals... That and the piss poor shape my power valves were in make me wonder what else he missed.

    Note to all those guys running PV still... Check and clean them... I had a build-up of carbon on the edge my PV's at least a sixteenth of in inch. Pics to follow.

    I have to wait for the 1211 to get here, I might as well wait for new seals.

  9. #9
    There is no VooDoo like BadVooDoo NeVerMind's Avatar
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    New Question

    I have an Advent CDI with a external switch bank.. Does anybody think I should get a advance key for the flywheel?

  10. #10
    Happily Self-Employed WFO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NeVerMind View Post
    I have an Advent CDI with a external switch bank.. Does anybody think I should get a advance key for the flywheel?
    No... its a lot of timing in the midrange. You could run an offset key, but you would have to mix your fuel with some higher octane.

    .02

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