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05-22-2006, 08:29 PM #1
"My" NO Weld Waterbox Mod with Pics
I did not have time to get the box welded back together so I used what I had here and did the closest thing I could.
I used my bit extension, 1" hole saw with pilot bit set very shallow (1/4")
I drilled 4 holes in the baffle and cut 2 1/2" of off the J pipe.
I figure it has to help some as the RR parts have none of the baffles installed.
I did not do anything with the exit pipe as some others here talked about the box not scavenging well without it so it stayed in place.
It took about an hour to do and I did it all with the WB still in the ski.
Make sure to vacuum it out really well and account for all of the slugs you drill out.
05-22-2006, 09:10 PM #2
Great job David. Come to Pickwick this weekend and lets see how she performs.
05-22-2006, 09:16 PM #3
I`ll give ya this,,,your determined. Man, look up in te phone book and call some welding shops tomorrow. A day or two down ain`t jack. You can sink your ski ONCE!
05-22-2006, 09:17 PM #4
i'm still trying to figure out how u did this... lol
that second pic is looking thru the entrance or exit tube? ... the baffle plate is vertical between the enter and exit... so i'm trying to figure in my mind how the heck a straight drill could cut those holes...
i'm so lost, but nice job
05-22-2006, 09:24 PM #5
hole saw,,,the plug stays on the pilot bit,,but the shavings fall in the box.
edit: sorry shibby,,,he hole sawed the end plate to get access.
05-22-2006, 10:15 PM #6
so how's he gonna patch the hole he drilled in the end plate?
05-22-2006, 10:18 PM #7
- Join Date
- Oct 2005
- Ann Arbor, MI
thats what i am wondering as well!
05-22-2006, 10:31 PM #8
mix spackle, JB Weld, and epoxy all together.... and also use some spackling tape to properly seal the edges over the hole... that oughtta hold...
Secret formula from Kinch withstands EGTs up to 2500 Degrees Fahrenheit
no but really, how ya gonna patch that hole? lol
05-22-2006, 11:10 PM #9
Guys that baffle is parallel to the bottom of the WB.
The holes everyone else is cutting is in the baffle that is vertical to the bottom of the WB. They are both doing the same thing diverting flow around it.
This way I get the airflow through the baffle but have no holes to patch or fill in any way.
I could have fit a 2" hole saw in to do the job but since the baffle is contoured I would have had to keep setting my pilot bit which would have been a pain, because the hole saw hit the sides of the baffle before the pilot.
With the smaller 3/4" hole I was able to cut the holes out, then use the shop vac with small adapter to get down inside and vacuum out the shavings.
If you put a little duct seal in your hole saw it will catch a lot of the debris and shavings. You pull out the slugs that you drilled and you now have a modified water box for no cost and no down time.
I could have gone the welding rout but the closest place that I would trust to do it is 20 min away and figure that in with the time it takes to cut it, drop it off and go back and get it, I would have a lot of precious time invested.
I am just trying to get it back together for the weekend and had lots of other more pressing things to get done before then.
If it does not work out I will remove it and cut it open and do it again.
If I were to do that I would get one of the stainless header collector inserts that looks like a cone in a 4" and put it in the vertical baffle.
This way I would have a free flow but the cone I think would help cut down some of the db.
I will try and draw something tomorrow and post it so that it makes more sense.
05-22-2006, 11:13 PM #10
David I am tying to get it togather, and make it over.
If not I promis you will see us there soon.
Are you going to make the MB, I am trying to get Nick to go.
He and Frank are thinking about it but he is in the middle of opening a new store at the same time so he is going to have to wait and see.
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