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  1. #1

    Automotive 160 thermostat

    I'm thinking of giving it a shot. I'll be using 1FastVe's cutting tool from the Riva kit. Can anyone think of anything else I might run into. I hear you should bevel the outside lip to put it back in or something ?

    Here are the instructions from Riva
    http://www.rivayamaha.com/Instructions/rs1015.pdf
    Here is there kit.
    http://www.rivayamaha.com/RivaStore/...ermostat%20Kit

    Will I need the outlet flange that riva gives you or can I reuse the stock one.

    Here is automotive thermostat I might try ? Do you think the seadoo will require a certain car model ?
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LS2-L...ayphotohosting

    Here are some Mr. Gaskets from Summit which I heard are good
    http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...4&autoview=sku

    Here are some others from Summit
    http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...4294888524+115

    Is copper/brass better than stainless ?


  2. #2
    David 1 FAST VE's Avatar
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    Kinchyle,

    I think you can cut yours open drop that thermostat in and replace the top.

    Put the hole thing in a press of some sort to hold a little pressure on the two pieces and fill the top with epoxy, let it dry and you are ready to go.

    David

  3. #3
    That's exactly what I was thinking. Then using right stuff silicon instead of the o-ring. If some plastic clips can hold the flange then I'm sure the liquid JB Weld will be overkill.

    Hoss will be done with it in a couple weeks so I'm going to try it then. Just wanted to get some info before then

    Anyone have a prefernce on the thermostat to get ?

  4. #4
    HOSS's Avatar
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    INDY27's Avatar
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    Re: Automotive 160 thermostat

    You only need to bevel the housing when you are pressing the Riva billet locking ring on.

    Quote Originally Posted by Kinchyle
    I'm thinking of giving it a shot. I'll be using 1FastVe's cutting tool from the Riva kit. Can anyone think of anything else I might run into. I hear you should bevel the outside lip to put it back in or something ?

    Here are the instructions from Riva
    http://www.rivayamaha.com/Instructions/rs1015.pdf
    Here is there kit.
    http://www.rivayamaha.com/RivaStore/...ermostat%20Kit

    Will I need the outlet flange that riva gives you or can I reuse the stock one.

    Here is automotive thermostat I might try ? Do you think the seadoo will require a certain car model ?
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LS2-L...ayphotohosting

    Here are some Mr. Gaskets from Summit which I heard are good
    http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...4&autoview=sku

    Here are some others from Summit
    http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...4294888524+115

    Is copper/brass better than stainless ?

  6. #6
    I'm leaning toward this thermostat
    http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

    Says if it fails it stays in the open position.
    Seems nice but how would I ever know it failed if I was in the open position. Wouldn't that mean it was like not having a thermostat.
    Would my high temp go off ?
    Should I go with one that stays closed if it fails then I would know by a high temp alarm.

  7. #7
    Can we use thermostats with balance sleeves ? This one is from Stewart racing.
    http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

  8. #8
    You will have to get the old one out and find one similar to it. I would take it out and go to a good quality parts store and see if they can find/order one.

  9. #9
    If someone will donate their old stat to tme, I will see if I can find a replacement.

    BTW, I work at a parts store with a nice set of catalogues.

  10. #10
    Moderator RX951's Avatar
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    Says if it fails it stays in the open position.
    Seems nice but how would I ever know it failed if I was in the open position. Wouldn't that mean it was like not having a thermostat.
    Would my high temp go off ?
    Should I go with one that stays closed if it fails then I would know by a high temp alarm.

    If at all possible, stick with the fail safe thermostat. If it fails, you still have circulation.
    Automotive or Non-Automotive applications.

    And no it is not like running without a thermostat if it fails. They are calibrated like a flow orifice to where if it did fail safe, the I.D. is calculated to provide a certain amount of flow with out overheating the motor. This restriction that is built in keep the coolant flowing in the motor for a certain period of time and volume is called "residence time", and it protects the motor. This residence time allows for the proper heat-transfer to take place. They go hand in hand.

    If you had one that failed closed, you will lose all circulation and definitely overheat.

    Stick to the OEM if in doubt. Maybe change it more often....

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