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  1. #1
    is thinking. grantuk's Avatar
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    Head removal and re-timing procedure???

    Hi All,

    I am going to remove my head to replace the oil pressure jet with a RR one and also install my RIVA valve train upgrade.

    However I am a little unsure on the procedure of re-timing the head on re-assembly.

    I cannot find a how-to on this, is there a thread anywhere that I am missing or any tips on this?

    Oh, and I already have a new head gasket ready.

    Thanks,

    Grant


  2. #2

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    Remove intake, take out the center plug and turn over the motor until the timing tool fits in the hole in the crank. Remove the chain tensioner/ plug towards the sc. The cam has a similar hole and tool to fit in. Install your sproket with the chain on the line on the sprocket should be parallel with the top of the head/ tighten the cap screws/ remove the tools and reinstall the intake manifold.

  3. #3
    EZ Dock of Long Island Shibby1485's Avatar
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    in short... there's only 3 critical things..

    cyliner #3 (which is the FRONT cylinder!) ... front cylinder by the gas tank must be at TDC

    the camshaft has to be locked via the hole in the head for the cam locking tool

    on the cam sprocket, where are two hash marks that say 1503 on them... those two hash marks need to be parallel with the top of the head..


    if all three of those criteria are met, then the motor is timed properly

    **NOTE** after it's timed, and when you go to install the camchain tensioner.. if it seems impossible or too tight, then chances are your camchain is off by 1 tooth on the gear

    the motor can appear timed properly but actually be off by a tooth... so if the camchain tensioner seems ungodly tight, then ur off a tooth
    Last edited by Shibby1485; 03-07-2008 at 04:42 PM.

  4. #4
    David 1 FAST VE's Avatar
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    Do yourself a favor and get the tools. You really need them to do the job correctly. Trust me.

  5. #5
    HORSEPOWER JUNKIE 9secZO6's Avatar
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    ***IF U ARE NOT USING ARP BOLTS, REPLACE W/ NEW!!*** the factory bolts are "torq-to-yield" and are NOT reusable. The ARP bolts are good forever

  6. #6
    seadoor's Avatar
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    yep

  7. #7
    Moderator The Bandit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shibby1485 View Post
    in short... there's only 3 critical things..

    cyliner #3 (which is the FRONT cylinder!) ... front cylinder by the gas tank must be at TDC

    the camshaft has to be locked via the hole in the head for the cam locking tool

    on the cam sprocket, where are two hash marks that say 1503 on them... those two hash marks need to be parallel with the top of the head..


    if all three of those criteria are met, then the motor is timed properly

    **NOTE** after it's timed, and when you go to install the camchain tensioner.. if it seems impossible or too tight, then chances are your camchain is off by 1 tooth on the gear

    the motor can appear timed properly but actually be off by a tooth... so if the camchain tensioner seems ungodly tight, then ur off a tooth
    Good info!

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shibby1485 View Post
    in short... there's only 3 critical things..

    cyliner #3 (which is the FRONT cylinder!) ... front cylinder by the gas tank must be at (LOCKED)TDC

    the camshaft has to be locked via the hole in the head for the cam locking tool

    on the cam sprocket, where are two hash marks that say 1503 on them... those two hash marks need to be parallel with the top of the head..


    if all three of those criteria are met, then the motor is timed properly

    **NOTE** after it's timed, and when you go to install the camchain tensioner.. if it seems impossible or too tight, then chances are your camchain is off by 1 tooth on the gear

    the motor can appear timed properly but actually be off by a tooth... so if the camchain tensioner seems ungodly tight, then ur off a tooth

    Shib, shouldn't it be locked at TDC?

  9. #9
    is thinking. grantuk's Avatar
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    You lock the front cylinder at TDC with the locking tools, right?

    If I dont have the SEA-DOO locking tools is it correct that I can just use 2 x 8-9mm drill bits?

    Also is the plug for the crank locking location the brass thread next to the oil filter?

    Thanks

  10. #10
    EZ Dock of Long Island Shibby1485's Avatar
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    yea it's locked at TDC... but for those that dont have the locking tools that that's why i expanded a little more on which cylinder needs to be at TDC.. i've done mine a couple times without the locking tools, it ain't too bad, just check and recheck and ise my little LED pencil light to gander inside the hole for the locking tool and make sure the spot in the crank is right where it should be

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