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  1. #1

    New to Sea-Doo...but liking it :D

    Just a couple of summers ago I bought a used 96 XP 800. It performs very well, boots up to about 63 Mph and does have it's issues to which I am in the process of working out. But I just found a posting on here about waterbox modding and am wondering if this mod can be done to my machine. From what I can tell of the machine, the mods already done by whom ever owned it before me are Vortec flame arrestors (if I remember correctly lol), aftermarket intake grate and very likely a milled head. It seems somewhat unusual that the compression reaches up to about 190 PSI balanced on both cylinders. If I can mod my waterbox it would be better to have the reduced backpressure anyway as it is pushing high compression right? Would it possibly help make the starting a little easier as well since I have burnt up a new batttery with trying to overcome the copression?


  2. #2
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Welcome!

    The waterbox mod won't work, as I stated on another thread. Your theory is sound, but will not doo in reality. Two-strokes need backpressure to scavange properly.

    I recommend a Deka ETX16L Gel battery for more cca's. They also last longer than conventional lead-acid batteries.

    You didn't mention a primer? If still running stock chokes buy a primer kit and remove them. The primer places fuel in the carbs immediately, and a cold engine starts within two turns, saving from grinding the starter over and over...trying to pump fuel in.

    These two mods will keep your starter on your ski much longer. With 190 lbs compression, it will still prematurely fail, but you should get it to last 2-3 years before a rebuild.
    Last edited by 96XPSS; 03-08-2008 at 12:23 PM.

  3. #3
    Thanks for the input XP...I didn't think about the scavenging consideration. It's a good thing there's a blizzard outside here today or I may have ripped into that little project. The primer kit sounds like a good idea as well. I've never run a modified ski before so priming was never an issue and the preivous owner didn't install one.

    I have some issues with my electrical as well and am about 85% sure that I nailed it down to the DC-CDI being faulty. I have the service manual and that module didn't pass certain tests, the values were all wrong. I also tested the MPEM and on a couple of tests they said the values could not be lower than 10 K ohms...it wasn't...it tested in the 150+- M ohms range. Technically it's not lower than the 10 K, another test was the same. The ski runs well across all power ranges but I had the battery light come on at the end of the summer last year and when I would disconnect the Neg. battery terminal lead and touch it back on there would be a small arcing. I traced it back to the red wire going from the reg./rec. to the MPEM. I did try a new reg./rec. and no difference. Any thoughts? Am I pretty well on the money by thinking the DC-CDI caved on me?

  4. #4
    Moderator RX951's Avatar
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    Welcome to the forum !

  5. #5
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Our XP's always have some draw from the battery, which is evident by the slight spark when you hook it up. This is normal. Always disconnect it of not using longer than a month, because it will kill it. We always use a battery tender.

    Most of the time, the CDI is always the last thing to fail. The MPEM regulates when and if the CDI gets voltage to send to the coil for a spark.

    Run the engine at 3500 rpm and measure the DC voltage at the battery. It should be around 13.4+ volts, up to 13.9.

    Grounds are the worst to fail, and are the most likely culprit in electrical. Check your battery ground cable where it connects under the engine, it will corrode under the heat shrink tubing at the crimp connection. The small ground wire to the battery will corrode in the plug on top of the black box, check the pins. The ground post inside the black box will corrode too, if water gets in it.

    There's a few things to check...

  6. #6
    Thanks for the info on the small black wires. I will do that soon. The neg. lead has been re-grounded to a higher position on the PTO side of the block. My reason for mentioning the spraking at the battery is because this has never happened before. Plus with the battery light coming on during a ride it brought on some concern. This issue will kill a battery over night. I have had the battery tested and it's good, plus without being hooked up it has held a 12.32 volt charge all winter outside in the boat...in ice making weather...for 6 months lol.
    Last edited by Schwarzenegger; 03-09-2008 at 09:51 AM.

  7. #7
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schwarzenegger View Post
    Thanks for the info on the small black wires. I will do that soon. The neg. lead has been re-grounded to a higher position on the PTO side of the block. My reason for mentioning the spraking at the battery is because this has never happened before. Plus with the battery light coming on during a ride it brought on some concern. This issue will kill a battery over night. I have had the battery tested and it's good, plus without being hooked up it has held a 12.32 volt charge all winter outside in the boat...in ice making weather...for 6 months lol.
    Your stator is probably bad too if it kills the battery overnight. Doing a charge check like I previously stated will tell you what's going on.

  8. #8
    Roger that...once I get my grey box back together and charge the battery I will try it out and post my findings.
    Last edited by Schwarzenegger; 03-09-2008 at 10:24 PM.

  9. #9
    Moderator The Bandit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schwarzenegger View Post
    Roger that...once I get my grey box back together and charge the battery I will try it out and post my findings.
    Welcome to the forum.
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