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  1. #1
    outboard john's Avatar
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    2005 Flywheel Bolts

    Need some advise. Here's where I'm at. Stg III last summer less the super charger. Riva ecu and valve train in place. The ski has not turned over 8100 rpm to date. So i've just installed my Rude charger but have not started the ski yet. I'm now thinking i need to replace these flywheel bolts. Are they really a time bomb just like ceramic washers? If yes, here are my thoughts and questions. I read in a thread(oh, that rhymes!)where Jerry recommends pulling the motor to do this. I would consider disregarding his good advise on this one; by the time i get an engine hoist, unplug, unplumb and drop the intake and exhaust manifolds I think I would be further ahead by working on it in the ski. Here goes. Drain the oil, remove super charger(I have gh water box) drain coolant, remove inner cooler/super charger and water pump plumbing. Push the billows back and remove the c-clip on the drive shaft(can the billows be compressed with a 30mm open end wrench or do I need their special tool?). Pull the jet pump and drive shaft. Remove the right side motor mount bracket, pull the water pump and PTO cover and I'm at the flywheel...? I see a drive shaft locking tool in the gh store. Is this what i need to keep the motor from turning while I'm torking the new bolts? What are the tork specs for the new bolts? Will I need to replace the water pump and PTO cover gaskets? Thanks for reading my novel, and any help is greatly appreaciated.

    John


  2. #2
    Moderator Franko's Avatar
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    You can do it in the ski, but I think it is easier to pull the motor. But if you want to do it with the engine in the hull, put a piece of 2x4 under the rear of the motor to prop it up so that you can get to the bottom PTO bolts. You should put a towel in the hull because you are going to make a mess.

    You can probably tighten the bolts without the crank locking tool, but it would be easier with the tool.

    Yes, you have to replace the PTO gasket. I don't remember the torque specs on the flywheel bolts, but this info is in the instructions that come with the bolt kit.

  3. #3
    Fywheel bolts 11flbs+50*

  4. #4
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    I'm debating between doing this or not....motor will be out, so I might as well...How much are bolts and gasket?

  5. #5
    cheatin' piston popper addicted's Avatar
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    I did mine a few weeks ago, but my motor is out. The hardest part is cleaning the old gasket off. All the crap gets on all the parts inside. I have never worked on a 4 tec before, and not counting removing the engine, I'd call it an hour job.

  6. #6
    Moderator Franko's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny View Post
    I'm debating between doing this or not....motor will be out, so I might as well...How much are bolts and gasket?
    If the motor is out, it is a no brainer - do it. It's cheap insurance against a catastrophic failure. Like addicted said, once the motor is out, it is a quick job.

  7. #7
    captain obvious Lurker's Avatar
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    It is a tight fit but the motor can be removed with the intake manifold, exhaust manifolds, throttle body, supercharger,and injectors still in place. It will take two people with an engine hoist and some muscle, but it can be done.

    The bolts are under $20, the gasket I don't remember.

  8. #8
    MIARider's Avatar
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    I did mine last week in the ski. I removed the


    driveshaft
    pump
    both rear mount brackets
    SC including piping
    waterbox
    thermostat
    pto cover

    replaced the bolts, torqued @ 11lbs plus 50 degrees. Put everything back in and that was it. As for the locking tool, you could use a pry bar or flat head to lock the motor from moving.

    Bolt kit is like $ 15.00 and the gasket like $ 10.00
    Last edited by MIARider; 03-13-2008 at 05:21 PM.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Franko View Post
    If the motor is out, it is a no brainer - do it. It's cheap insurance against a catastrophic failure. Like addicted said, once the motor is out, it is a quick job.

    Quote Originally Posted by MIARider View Post
    Bolt kit is like $ 15.00 and the gasket like $ 10.00


    Consider it done...

  10. #10
    captain obvious Lurker's Avatar
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    One thing, once the motor is out secure it to something so that you can get the bolts on and off without the entire engine moving. I strapped mine to some 2x4 boards on the legs of the engine hoist (strap clamped engine to legs with 2x4's sandwiched in the middle). The camshaft or crank locking tool is helpful.

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