Thread: Ultra 150 mods (edit)
03-20-2008, 09:49 AM #1
Ultra 150 mods (edit)
I started this before but it kind of got off course. This time I will try to keep it on topic then we will get it pinned on top.
I had been thinking about starting this thread for awhile so here it is. I started this season with a fresh motor in my 04 ultra. It ran 64.5 first time out 60hrs ridding later and lots of wrenching it ran 71.1. My goal was 72 by the end of the season. There is nothing quite like the feeling of beating up on one of the new 10k plus high performance skis Here is a list of mods on mine.
mod stock grate
solas extended nozzel
beach house sponsons
skiworx heads 42cc
buckshot brm 50's
air intake mods
ipod with speakers in the mirrors
03-20-2008, 09:54 AM #2
New guys come on the forums all the time asking what they should do first. Here is the list I give and most other owners will too.
1 Shredmaster rideplate Yes they are expensive, Yes they are worth every penny.
2 Aftermarket sponsons. About your only choices are beach house or ada.
3 Pump. Check your wear ring clearance pull a shim if you can. There is another post in this thread that gives more details.
4 Heads You can have your stock ones cut or use R&D, ADA or Skiworx 42cc if you want to stay pump gas safe.
5 Impeller. Solas 16/20 or you can have your stock one modded with some good results.
6 Skiwoworx stinger mod.
Also worth mentioning is the tripple pisser mod, It wont make you go faster but it might just keep you going. Skiworx offers part of these and some other mods such as the cv carb mod in the level 1.
This list will get you well on your way. Your ski will handle much better with some good gains in acceleration and speed. How much further you go is only limited by imagination and funding.
03-20-2008, 10:24 AM #3
These are a few pics of how to mod a stock intake grate for the ultra 150. This setup works best on flat water it will gain speed compared to a stock or a scoup type grate. For my setup it gained me 1.3 mph combined with a slight mod to the shreadmaster. I was running a r&d grate that had been ground and polished. The first pic is where to cut it. The second is what it looks like when you are done. Notice the bars have been thinned out some and all the casting flash removed. The third pic is where the mounting tab was thinned to bring the grate higher in the hull. The "ramps" also need to be ground so they are smothe and meet the pump shoe evenly.
03-20-2008, 10:38 AM #4
Shredmaster mods and sealing
The pics I took really dont show where i ground on it. But what you want is the front of the plate even with the grate to slightly recessed. This is also how you want it in relation to the hull. This may require some grinding along the edges of the plate and the bottom of the grate mounting tab. I also did some additional grinding from the eyeglass seal back to allow the tail of the plate to move up higher. This may require that you grind a recess in the "d" in shreadmaster to clear the nozzel mounting bolt. This can be seen in the pic of where to silacone the plate. When sealing the ride plate pay particular attention to the eyeglass seal area, especially the ends. This is the most common place to get an air leak into the pump area. Be sure to smothe out all the excess silacone so the seams between the plate and hull are smothe. Ge silacone 2 has worked well for me others use 3m 5200. This setup gives my ski a "loose feel" with the mod stock grate, it works best on glass water. This feeling is compared to a R&D aquavein with the shread, it felt sucked down before.
03-20-2008, 10:59 AM #5
Pump cleanup and shimming
Most of you reading this may have already had your pump apart or have heard others talk about shimming a pump. As a general rule take out shims till the impeller hits the wear ring then put 1 back. While you have it out its a good time to do some general pump cleanup. I cant say what the exact gain is but it sure cant hurt. You mainly want to get rid of any casting lines and flash arround the stator vanes. You may also have a lip where the tail cone that can be smothed out, When you are done put an alignment mark across the cone and stator housing so you reassemble it the same way. Dont forget to tighten the impellar back up, if it backs off you will get an unexplained bog that is hard to find. It will also destroy your impeller and possibly your wear ring. I know this first hand it happened to me. Guess I was too busy taking pictures If you cant get your wear ring clearance down to factory spec or less it is probably time to replace the impeller, wear ring or send it off for a bluprint job. Skiworx or impros can do this for you if needed.
03-20-2008, 11:18 AM #6
This part was done during my makeover. I used a cylinder hone on the wear ring, pump cone and steering nozel then polished them. The siphone tube has to be removed to do this, just reinstall it when you are done. The steering nozel had a ridge in it from casting that is now gone.
03-20-2008, 11:37 AM #7
Wet pump mod
This came from the 250 guys. I dont know what the gain is going to be. I will come back later and do some comparison testing with a stock pump and post the results. I can tell that the effort to turn the impeller is less after the mod. This should give a few more rpm.
What you want to do is remove the dust covers from the bearings inside the pump. A walnut pic or dental pic works well for this. After the seals are removed clean out the old grease with brake parts cleaner or carb cleaner then let dry. I filled the cavity in the stator housing with belray 75 - 140 gear saver oil within 1/2 in of the top. Then reinstall the tail cone, this will presurise the oil inside and some may come out the front seal. Tighten carefully so you dont break the ears off the pump cone.
03-20-2008, 11:51 AM #8
This trick has been arround awhile. This one is easy and free. Start by taking the trim rod lose from the L bracket. Then remove the ball joint from the end of the trim rod. Leave the jamb nut on the rod. Take a dremmel and cut about 1/4 - 3/8 inch off the end of the rod. Then you can run the nut forward to clean up the threads. Run the nut all the way back then put the balljoint back on all the way against the nut. This will give you more up trim, It will help top speed and make it jump on almost any wave at full up. If you need it to settle down then just trim back down or shift your weight forward.
03-20-2008, 12:00 PM #9
This is for later models that dont have the 2 front air intakes. You can purchase the early intake from kawi but it is expensive, here is the cheap way. All the parts for this can be purchased at home depot. You will need a shop vac hose, 2 couplings, 2 fernco reducers from the plumbing aisle and a few stainless screws. Use a hole saw to cut the 2 holes out in the front large enough for the couplers the pics explain the rest. You can also cut the hood liner inside the gill slits, then cut holes in the liner over the bucket. A couple of large holes cut in the bucket will let the air in. Your bucket wont be dry anymore, but was it ever
03-20-2008, 12:26 PM #10
Here are a few pics of my exhaust. Last time it was out I glued all the gaskets on 1 side then cut the gaskets so there was no lip sticking into the ports. This manifold has also had some work done inside it as you can see in the pics. The chamber and stinger aslo have a simmilar finish. This system is a d3 from performance engineering they are no longer in business. Skiworx also does a simmilar mod called the stealth exhaust. This mod helps when you start raising compression and changing to am carbs. Some of these pics are after I went back and did more polishing during the makeover.
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