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  1. #1

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    Winterize/de-winterize list

    I'm kinda ashamed to be asking this, but I did search here in the boat forum no one has discussed in detail de/&winterization's.

    I was wondering if someone out there has a personal list they use and if you'd be willing to post it?

    I didn't winterize my boat this past year. Well, Its in a garage, doesn't go below zero, was last in fresh water. I put the trailer on jack stands and put a tender on the battery and put stabilizer in the tank but I didn't oil the cylinders.

    What is the purpose of doing that? Should I pull the plugs and add a little bit of this fogging oil to the cylinders before my first start of the season? So that brings up the dewinterize list. Anyone care to discuss this with me in detail?

    Thanks
    Last edited by vwDavid; 03-22-2008 at 06:33 PM.


  2. #2
    Doo It Till It Hurts! holdnon72's Avatar
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    What sea doo boat and engine do you have?

  3. #3

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    I have a 2006 sportster SCIC 215

  4. #4
    Doo It Till It Hurts! holdnon72's Avatar
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    Well let me start by saying I hope it didn't get below 32* degrees in your garage cause it's a must to winterize that supercharger set-up

    Not a whole lot for de-winterizing:

    If you want to spray some bombardier lube down into the cylinders through the plug holes it won't hurt for that first start up. It will help lube the cylinders untill the oil gets up to them.

    Run the boat on the hose and check and make sure nothing is leaking inside the engine compartment. Lets just pray nothing froze up over the long winter sit in your garage.

    Before you put the boat away next year I would flush with 50/50 water and antifreeze so you know the entire system is protected from freezing temps.

    I just use a bilge pump/clear hose and a bucket of 50/50 antifreeze water and connect it to the flush adapter and run the engine till it runs out of the jet pump at the rear of the boat.

    Let us know how u make out...

  5. #5
    Jeepster's Avatar
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    Yes exactly, Sea-Doo recommends:

    1-To run the boat a bit with full tank of gas and some STA-BIL in fuel
    (To get some STA-BILL + fresh fuel inside the injectors and fuel rails).
    2-To change the engine oil & filter
    3-To flow undiluted antifreeze through the water circuits (intercooler+exhaust)
    4-And finally if you ride in salty water condition to lubricate cabled/wired controls (throttle/steering/reverse) and to fog the engine a bit in the cylinders.
    5-Maintain the battery from time to time with a charger.

    Note that step 4 is not needed if we don't ride in salty conditions.
    De-Winterizing it, should be:

    Starting back the engine and let it run a bit (1-2 minutes) while
    flushing the cooling system properly on a garden hose (to remove the antifreeze)
    Last edited by Jeepster; 03-24-2008 at 02:00 PM.

  6. #6

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    Thanks guys. It definitely didn't go below zero, thanks for your concern.

    So why should oil be changed at the end of the season, and should plugs be changed after the first run?

    We only put 10 hours on the boat last summer, seems kind of a waste to change the oil and plugs...

    what do you think?

  7. #7
    Doo It Till It Hurts! holdnon72's Avatar
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    David,

    You should always change the oil before you put the boat away for the winter storage period. Dirty oil that sits inside your engine can cause pitting/staining of internal engine parts.

    You always want the oil to be new and clean before you store the boat away for the winter.

    If you don't have allot of hours on the spark plugs then you should be ok,But I change mine once a year after the first 2 trips out and most of the old gas/stabilizer is gone.

    I change my oil twice a season,but I use my boat allot

    You said it didn't get below 0* in your garage but water freezes at 32*F degrees

    I learned with these types of boats preventative maintenance is the best way to go...

    Pick up a shop manual, It has all the winterizing and maintenance procedures to follow.

    Have a safe and fun summer

  8. #8

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    Thanks Holdon. Where is the best place to get the shop manual?

    0 *C = 32 F

  9. #9
    Doo It Till It Hurts! holdnon72's Avatar
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    My bad I See now that you live in canada...

    You can pick up the manual on ebay

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by vwDavid View Post
    Thanks guys. It definitely didn't go below zero, thanks for your concern.

    So why should oil be changed at the end of the season, and should plugs be changed after the first run?

    We only put 10 hours on the boat last summer, seems kind of a waste to change the oil and plugs...

    what do you think?
    you should change your oil because over time oil becomes acidic from the carbon and other chemicals that build up in it. if you going to store the boat in a place that has fluctuating temperatures i would recomend putting synthetic oil in it as it is not effected by temperature change like regular oil.

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