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  1. #1
    Vern's Avatar
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    RXP/T pump/bailer/bilge water leak ... read this

    I made a bunch of mods to my 2005 RXP and finally got it to the water this weekend. One of the mods I did was to install a bilge pump. I had always felt that the stock bailer lines actually got a little water INTO the boat at certain speeds, so I just wanted to get rid of them. I took my Skat adjustable venturi nozzle and pulled out the two stock bailer siphon tubes out of the nozzle, and thoroughly JB Welded up the holes in the nozzle, sanded smooth, etc. I eliminated all the bailer crap from inside the hull too.

    I went out Saturday and ran the boat, it ran great, but I was getting some water in the hull. Tried a few things, then put it up. Sunday morning the light bulb went on ... since I had thoroughly plugged the two holes in the venturi nozzle, I had assumed that no water would get into the boat thru the two stock bailer spigots that sit behind the VTS motor .... WRONG! I put lines on the two spigots, and dumped them into bottles ... one high speed run, and both (12 oz) bottles were full and overflowed. I was very happy ... had found my leak, so I plugged two ends of the same piece of hose onto the fittings, hose clamped them, dried the hull and was good to go.

    Things I learned ... the extremely high pressure in our jet pumps leaks thru the seams ... and gets into the stock bailer 'tunnels' that exist in the jet pump. (And my pump is tight ... ran 75.5 mph at 7900 rpms with 81 mm nozzle) ... this would also mean that there is the possibility that at some speeds the stock bailer system is fighting itself between sucking and high pressure water forcing in ... and I am now convinced that my stock bailer system was leaking a little into the boat.

    Just made me sit and think awhile ... I don't like the stock bailer system, and if you do away with it, don't forget to block off the stock thru hull bailer tubes behind the VTS motor. It also made me wonder if we are losing measurable thrust out thru the seams of our pumps ... probably not worth any mph, but I was really amazed at how the water was able to squeeze between the cracks of a carefully assembled (and torqued) pump with enough volume and velocity to fill those tunnels and spit into the boat with pretty good force.

    So, if you have removed your stock bailer system, make sure you completely finish the job!


  2. #2

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    If one of those hoses comes off/before the one way valves... you'll see what a real volume of water is. Those zip ties need clamps on them!

  3. #3
    EZ Dock of Long Island Shibby1485's Avatar
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    thanks for the tips vern.... thinking of removing the bailers myself as well... mostly to remove the clutter inside the engine compartment, lol....

    do you use a liquid gasket sealer between your pump and venturi when bolting it together? ... i used to, then i stopped bc it was getting messy, but maybe i should go back to that if it will keep the pump more water-tight.

    have you thought about installing duck-bills along with the bilge pump as well?

  4. #4

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    funny you mention that, this weekend both tubes came off my o5 rxt right at the thru hull, fill the ski in (no time no more tie raps)

  5. #5
    Moderator RX951's Avatar
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    this is very good information

  6. #6
    Vern's Avatar
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    Jawz, I believe that! What I experienced was just what somehow got into the boat by squeezing between the pump stages .... it surprised me how much got in and how fast.

    Shibby, I wondered about sealing the pump stages with something, but it gets so messy and most of us pull our pumps off too often ... it is so clean and easy without any sealer. Tell you what tho, I will be taking my pump off to seal up the last stage of the bailer tunnels soon tho, then I won't need to ever worry about the hose coming off the bailer spigots.

    I did SS hose clamp all my bailer hoses previously ... a very good idea if you keep the bailer system. It works OK, but routing the bailer tunnels thru the jet pump itself is what is not good and can cause leaks. I prefer the way the Yamahas are done, nothing thru the pump, no chance for seepage or leakage.

  7. #7
    Vern, you never said anything about the venturi pressure rings that are supposed to be between the houseing & venturi. Maybe yours were missing? Ka-ca? no sealant?
    We used to push potatoes in tale pipes on tricker-treat nite.

  8. #8
    Vern, can you post pics of what you're talking about? I have an 07 GTX limited that was taking on water. I just took it out for a test ride after replacing the carbon ring and all associated parts and it's still
    taking on water? I even put silicon gasket sealer
    on my Opas blockoffs...

  9. #9
    Vern's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bills86e View Post
    Vern, you never said anything about the venturi pressure rings that are supposed to be between the houseing & venturi. Maybe yours were missing? Ka-ca? no sealant?
    We used to push potatoes in tale pipes on tricker-treat nite.
    Nope, those rings were in place ... I actually replaced those with slightly thicker better rings previously too.

  10. #10
    Vern's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by combatcraig View Post
    Vern, can you post pics of what you're talking about? I have an 07 GTX limited that was taking on water. I just took it out for a test ride after replacing the carbon ring and all associated parts and it's still
    taking on water? I even put silicon gasket sealer
    on my Opas blockoffs...
    I don't have pics of this mod, but if you are getting water in still, I would look at the OPAS water pressure plumbing in the rear of the ski too. Next, look for the two small black fittings that come into the hull just above the pump tunnel ... make sure they are firmly attached to the bilge lines and that all the bilge lines are securely clamped. After that, pull the seat and go for a ride and look for spray in the hull while running ... sometimes its hard to find any other way.

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