Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 20
  1. #1

    2000 Ultra 150 #3 Piston and Cylinder Failure

    New to the forums. I've got a 2000 Ultra 150, no engine mods, or pump work (yet), but I've got a shredmaster plate, R&D grate, and agresser sponsons.

    I was riding on the lake last year, experienced a sudden loss in power, but still able to move run back towards shore, power slowly dieing as I went. Got back to shore, couldn't get the motor to fire. Tried next day on trailer, couldn't get it to fire, starting seemed like it was not spinning fast enough. Left it as it was (was running for the last time, pushing sta-bil through the lines when it failed).

    Start to work on for the coming season, same no start. Compression tested the cylinders. #1 was at 120, #2 115, #3 wouldn't budge the gauge, but was pushing air. Motor is currently torn apart, sitting on kitchen floor (no garage).

    Looking for advice on what to do. #1 and #2 look fine as far as I can tell, smooth heads, no piston damage, smooth, clean cylinder walls. #3 piston is shot, and cylinder wall has been significantly scored. No apparent damgage to the head, though it is lighter colored (possibly from the run back to shore w/o #3 piston firing?).

    Since I've got everything torn apart, and I am going to have to spend some money to at the minimum, replace the #3 piston and cylinder, I was thinking that some performance engine work could be justified, since some of the upgrade cost would be covered as replacement cost.

    For now, budget only allows slight top end modification, heads, pistons, cylinder type of work. Unable to spend the money to get the aftermarket carbs or triples, but would like to some day (at least 1.5 years down the road). Suggestions on what to do?

    As of now, I am considering Group K work, either stage 1 or stage 2, pump gas only, using stock carb and exhaust. Anyone have experience with either of these, or comparable set-ups?

    Any suggestions on what to replace or look at, in trying to figure out what caused the failure? I'm thinking a top end gasket kit is warranted since I've already ripped it all apart. Should I replace anything else? Oillines perhaps?

    Link below is for the pictures of the engine failure and what has been torn apart. Please let me know any of your thoughts.


    http://s284.photobucket.com/albums/l...Blown%20Motor/


    Can anyone shoot me a link for an electronic copy of the 150 service manual?

    Thanks for reading.


  2. #2
    btldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    lebanon tn.
    Posts
    1,641
    First welcome to green hulk, too bad it wasnt under better circumstances. Since you are this far in it I would split the cases and replace the crank seals. #3 looks like that was an oil failure either the oil line cracked or plugged check valve in the rear balancer cavity. What condition were the oil lines in? Looks like the cyl wont live Check the classified section several guys are parting out ultras. I know crashhard had one and codymouse has a whole motor for $1200. You may also want to check out www.skiworx.com Check out the level 1.5 kit. I will pm you about the manual.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Ultra150BlownMotor005.jpg 
Views:	220 
Size:	95.4 KB 
ID:	64168   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Ultra150BlownMotor006.jpg 
Views:	168 
Size:	146.8 KB 
ID:	64169   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Ultra150BlownMotor013.jpg 
Views:	279 
Size:	119.9 KB 
ID:	64170  

  3. #3
    Oil lines appeared to be fine. Bottom of hull was clean, lines leaked oil when they were pulled off, have not checked them too thoroughly though. Thanks for the manual.

  4. #4
    axgrider73's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Southeast Ohio
    Posts
    2,059
    Welcome to the Grenn Hulk!!!!

    Is that rust on the crank??? The piston wash looks a little lean on all three cylinders to me.

  5. #5
    Here are some pictures of the #2 crank area. Only #2 has any discoloring/roughness. I'm not sure if it is rust or generalized scale. It is confined to the bottom of the crank, nothing else on it. Ideas on what it is? Is it bad, or just wear? Is it possibly from pulling the motor, and having case unsealed?

    Not sure.

    On Tuesday, I sent the cylinders, pump, intake, and stinger off to skiworx for stage 1.5 mod. Also getting the tripple pisser, and going to get the air fuel separator from group k, since I have had problems with rough water low fuel pickup in the past, and perhaps I got an unlucky streak of lean, and blew the piston.

    Since I've got everything off, would I be advised to split the crankcase, and replace its seals?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0092.JPG 
Views:	173 
Size:	889.6 KB 
ID:	64648   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0093.JPG 
Views:	160 
Size:	902.9 KB 
ID:	64649  

  6. #6
    btldigger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    lebanon tn.
    Posts
    1,641
    I would since you are going that far. Its only 50 more bolts You think im kidding count them

    I didnt see you mention sending the carbs but I assume you did. They will probably come back running a little fat on the bottom. But that ok on a fresh top end and can be adjusted out easily as you break it in. Just make sure you got spare plugs onboard.

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Central Tx
    Posts
    34

    reply

    Quote Originally Posted by skiguy1028 View Post
    Oil lines appeared to be fine. Bottom of hull was clean, lines leaked oil when they were pulled off, have not checked them too thoroughly though. Thanks for the manual.
    I just fixed a ski with the exact same problem.. with the engine in the ski still... lift the hood and pull out the Bucket... Follow the front water line to the Hull... I will more then bet its stopped up with sand or something... I had the same thing... 05 with 80hours... Piston looked exactly the same... I would see no reason to keep going... You have gone much further then need be already unless you wanting a major overhaul... As it stands look like 400.00 and a days work you can be up and Running....

  8. #8
    axgrider73's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Southeast Ohio
    Posts
    2,059
    If it were me, I would split the cases and take a closer look at that crank. It's hard to tell from the pictures, but that looks like rust to me. If the bearing are rusted, that thing is a ticking bomb.

    Just my 2 cents.

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Central Tx
    Posts
    34

    overhaul

    Quote Originally Posted by axgrider73 View Post
    If it were me, I would split the cases and take a closer look at that crank. It's hard to tell from the pictures, but that looks like rust to me. If the bearing are rusted, that thing is a ticking bomb.

    Just my 2 cents.
    I also see what your talking about on the rust problem it has now... Sorry i didnt agree in my first post and couldnt look at the pics the first go around.. Looks like it will take a bit more time... whats a Kaw crank/rod setup going for now 900.00 range?? I will agree at this time you need to move forward to try and inspect more rust ...

  10. #10
    i am having similar problems with the same model and year as skiguy1028 is mine is confined to the #1 cylinder the other two have 110 psi compression on them i just replaced the piston and cylinder on #1 i went thru carbs relaced all oil injection lines cleaned and flushed cooling system bled out the oil lines ran on hose for about ten minutes then put in water and ran for about an hour ran great then after another two hours and the unit being ran out of fuel and refueled with plus unleaded fuel and another twenty minutes of running great then the failure occurs am i over looking something here i have been a mechanic for thirty five years now and i have scratched my head and tried to see what is causing this any help i can get would be great

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Just got a 2000 Ultra 150 and 2000 1100 STX Di
    By nottaclue1 in forum Kawasaki PWC Performance (2-stroke)
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 07-14-2016, 05:53 PM
  2. 2000 ultra 150 crank rebuild and case welding
    By mcar33 in forum Kawasaki PWC Performance (2-stroke)
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 07-14-2015, 08:28 AM
  3. FS 2000 Ultra 150 part out and performance parts.
    By steward636 in forum Kawasaki Classifieds
    Replies: 26
    Last Post: 06-15-2014, 10:44 PM
  4. Selling Ultra-150 & STXR Piston & Cylinder & Head Matching
    By kryppie in forum Kawasaki PWC Performance (2-stroke)
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 10-14-2010, 08:42 PM
  5. WTB 2000 ultra 150 Cylinder and piston
    By zx11rider in forum Kawasaki Classifieds
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 08-24-2010, 07:29 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •