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  1. #1

    Engine removal question

    The ski in question is a 93 sl750. I read the manual and it makes NO MENTION of needing to remove the driveshaft to get the engine out of the boat, but I am thinking thats the only possible way. I have the bed plate as far forward as I can go and the coupler is plugged into the shaft. Also I tried to loosen up the bolts that hold the motor mounts to the hull and one of the bolt heads broke off. I assume I will need to easy out the bolt out.

    So 2 questions:

    Do I need to remove the driveshaft (or am I missing something obvious) and if so how do you go about that.

    Pics of my situation.
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  2. #2
    100 MILES OF HEAVEN AND I AM SMACK IN THE MIDDLE KEYZBUM's Avatar
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    yes
    pump and shaft need to come out first
    mattman

  3. #3
    100 MILES OF HEAVEN AND I AM SMACK IN THE MIDDLE KEYZBUM's Avatar
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    pump -take 4 long bolts out (not the nuts close to the hull)
    cooling lines,bilge lines,steering cable (if you got trim that too)
    that should be it

  4. #4
    Water Bum Rodneyae's Avatar
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    Keep in mind that you will need to alighn it when you get done.

  5. #5
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    That's a 93. You may need to remove the entirepump from the hull. Now would be a good time to upgrade to 94 and newer jet pump (148mm). It's a direct swap, I highly recommend this upgrade. You will need to align the engine and pump when you are done. I'm sorry I forgot the old pumps weren't modular like the newer style.

  6. #6
    my engine was frozen, so I managed to unscrew the coupler and slide it back andlift the engine. I have a 93 also.

    Hey guys, could he use the nylon string method to temporarily "freeze" his engine? This is just an idea if he didnt want to remove the pump.

    ~jaxon

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by swimmerjaxon View Post
    my engine was frozen, so I managed to unscrew the coupler and slide it back andlift the engine. I have a 93 also.

    Hey guys, could he use the nylon string method to temporarily "freeze" his engine? This is just an idea if he didnt want to remove the pump.

    ~jaxon
    Should be able to use that method.
    Put a length of clean rope down the spark plug hole for the PTO cylinder, until the piston cannot move all the way up. Don't need to completely stuff the cylinder, just enough to keep the piston well away from TDC.

    A large wrench on the drive shaft coupler should allow you to unscrew the coupler.

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xlint89 View Post
    That's a 93. You may need to remove the entirepump from the hull. Now would be a good time to upgrade to 94 and newer jet pump (148mm). It's a direct swap, I highly recommend this upgrade. You will need to align the engine and pump when you are done. I'm sorry I forgot the old pumps weren't modular like the newer style.
    I thought the '92 and '93 146mm pumps used the same pump mount (pump shoe), as the newer modular pumps. So the pump would be old-style, but the glued and bolted mount can stay on the hull.

    Upgrading to a new style 148mm modular pump would be a good thing. Just need to get the right impeller pitch to match the motor. Perhaps even an extended pump - any advantage for a SL650?

  9. #9
    i will be running an extended 148mm on my 93' SL 750.

  10. #10
    ShaneG's Avatar
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    I have an extended pump on my 95 650 with trim and extended ride plate. I have not been able to get it out yet this year but it sure looks cool on the trailer

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