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Thread: 2000 slx mods

  1. #1

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    2000 slx mods

    thinking of finally modding my slx, friend bought an rxp. thinking of bringing the jets down to 65's, carbon tech low tension reeds, and an intake grate(what would you reccomend). with all this, will i even come close to the rxp? also running a skat trak 13/24 with a kick
    Last edited by charles32443; 03-29-2008 at 12:32 PM. Reason: adding info


  2. #2
    AWA Member 32DegH2O's Avatar
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    Really need to get some more hp than you have to compete. High compression domes would be the best place to start. I think there is someone on the forum selling some..do a search. Next, your impeller is good for out of the hole but for top end speed you should look into getting a NuJet 7.0...may need to mod it a bit if you get high compression domes. For intake grate, your stock grate is the best all around but you may want to consider a R&D short wing intake grate...help keep you hooked up more. Does your SLX porpose at all? If not, then switching to a 6 degree pump wedge will net you some more speed. Also, you could add a jet works flow control valve and a wet wolf Adjust-a-thrust which will net you better out of the hole, acceleration and add top end speed. All this really depends on your budget and what you are willing to spend. If you get only one thing you definitely need to start with the domes.

  3. #3
    Rasta Mon Condoms We Be Jammin!!!!! TxVirageTx's Avatar
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    mods

    the slx is a smooth water ski,6 wedge makes it even more so.the domes,recurved cdi,reeds and jets,jet works valve and lako stacks or the proper adapters and f/a's

  4. #4
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Don't use low tension reeds if you're looking for top speed. You'll want high tension for top speed or low tension for out of the hole accel.

  5. #5
    Rasta Mon Condoms We Be Jammin!!!!! TxVirageTx's Avatar
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    what??????

    i run low tension in the virage i'd say 7300 rpm's on them all day long hasn't been a problem,at 6700 rpm for a 1200 slx,get the low tension no questions,as a matter of fact i think i got the last set of high tension for the pro they had,reason for the high tension,lets see,low prop,big carbs,lightweight flywheel,anything more than a 3 wedge and it'll stand on its tail ever time no matter how far you get over the bars

  6. #6
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    I'm under the assumption that low tension reeds "flutter" at high RPM, but open up more for increased fuel at take off. I may be wrong, but that's how I took it as. Low tension for buoy racing and high tension for top speed.

  7. #7
    Rasta Mon Condoms We Be Jammin!!!!! TxVirageTx's Avatar
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    reeds

    high tension is better for higher rpm motors that stay at higher rpms,7500 rpm motor like the pro 785 is a high tension setup,a rec ridin ski like a 6700 rpm slx or rec ridin triple pipe virage that sees lots of low and mid rpms as well as max rpm blasts low is the way,i actually wanted a mid for it but c/t couldn't produce it.and u didn't want to shell out the coin for the v-force with stuffers for a very minumally gain running stock carbs and intake tract,only gonna flow so much air anyway.

  8. #8

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    thanks for all the info, guess i have alot of work to do to beat an rxp

  9. #9
    Legend in my own mind Sirhc7897's Avatar
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    With bolt-ons (and some fine tuning) you can make your ski keep up with them (a totally stock one) for top end in regular conditions (67-68 for them and you can bolt on and get to 67-68 as well).....However you'll never have bottom end to match with just bolt ons....

    A set of pipes would do it (to be able to pull/stay with one on bottom and edge it on top)...

    With bolt-ons and the right pipes you'll be able to run right around 70-72 on top with some great acceleration (killer mid range and a strong holeshot if you learn how to modulate the throttle)....With going into the motor you could get even more but the ski will never truly shine for top end on anything but flat water and getting speed past 70 on that hull takes some work... And this would turn it into quite a high strung beast that would probably sour you on it due to the amount of wrenching required to keep it in top form...

    My suggestion would be some simple bolt ons (reeds, domes, CDI, jetworks, prop work, maybe carbs and a little bit of pipe tuning) and be happy with running 67-68 and having a super playful, reliable, gas & go fun ski...

    Sure you can make a RXP plenty faster but it has nowhere near the fun factor of your little SLX....

    I miss mine sometimes for the pure grin factor involved with letting it rip in the surf or just plain being silly with it...(probably why I haven't let go of the actual hull yet)...

    I find on my RXP I'm much more apprehensive to do the same silly things I used to never think twice about on my SLX (probably due to the parts being so damn expensive and it being so damn big and heavy)...

  10. #10
    Legend in my own mind Sirhc7897's Avatar
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    Also to add.....the stock prop tweaked for proper rpms to mathc your power adders will always be the fastest prop you can get for peak top end speed....It's hard to beat for mid range as well.....

    It does give up a lot of bottom end to a Skat swirl or even a Skat SSL (bent right) but if you're after top end it's faster than any of the other offerings:
    -Aftermarket Nu-Jet
    -Solas
    -Skat

    And lord knows I tried a lot of props back in the day...

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