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  1. #1

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    alot of misc questions for this green horn

    well im gonna start cleaning the cases tomorrow ,

    how do i take off the coupler off the crank shaft so i can take it off for new seals , strap it down use a 1 1/2 inch wrench , rotate clockwise or counter clockwise ?

    what kinda of lube should i use to give the bearings and cly walls ahead start ? str8 2 cycle oil ?

    in bench testing the stator does the flywheel have to be around the stator ?

    loctite any where ? and what kind ?

    any silocone on the base gaskets ? if yes what kind ? 1211 ?

    any body have any bad storys about wsm platnuim pistons ?

    what kind of breaking in times do i have to follow ? im going premix , i see 31:1 then 40:1 afterwards does that still apply to me with premix ?

    im at the point ill finish cleaning the case and and hull , ill slap every thing togethor , line up the motor with the drive shaft properly run the stator wires ,

    also any body remember the risistor number for the oil tank sender bypass ?

    has any body ever hurd of the bendix slipping out of position becuase thats what i think is what happened to me since i could hear the stater motor spinning but then my motor was locked up for no apparent reason after i got everything takeing apart ,

    with the little mods ill be makeing running rich isnt gonna hurt anything for the meantime while breaking in is it ?
    Last edited by Bone1050; 03-31-2008 at 07:18 AM.


  2. #2
    Lake Mead Bum & BTLS Mark starflight's Avatar
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    I'm a green horn too..
    Quote Originally Posted by 97sltx1050 View Post
    well im gonna start cleaning the cases tomorrow ,

    how do i take off the coupler off the crank shaft so i can take it off for new seals , strap it down use a 1 1/2 inch wrench , rotate clockwise or counter clockwise ?

    what kinda of lube should i use to give the bearings and cly walls ahead start ? str8 2 cycle oil ? I used 2 stroke oil. Was advised to use slick 50 after the fact.

    in bench testing the stator does the flywheel have to be around the stator ? No. It can be ohm'd w/o the flywheel.

    loctite any where ? and what kind ?

    any silocone on the base gaskets ? if yes what kind ? 1211 ? Yes. 1211 works fine

    any body have any bad storys about wsm platnuim pistons ?

    what kind of breaking in times do i have to follow ? im going premix , i see 31:1 then 40:1 afterwards does that still apply to me with premix ? 32:1 for break in. Not synthetic. 40:1 after w/ oil of your choice.

    im at the point ill finish cleaning the case and and hull , ill slap every thing togethor , line up the motor with the drive shaft properly run the stator wires ,

    also any body remember the risistor number for the oil tank sender bypass ? 33 ohms

    has any body ever hurd of the bendix slipping out of position becuase thats what i think is what happened to me since i could hear the stater motor spinning but then my motor was locked up for no apparent reason after i got everything takeing apart ,

    with the little mods ill be makeing running rich isnt gonna hurt anything for the meantime while breaking in is it ? Richer is better than lean.

  3. #3
    Lake Mead Bum & BTLS Mark starflight's Avatar
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    I tried to change the color of my text, but it didn't work.

  4. #4
    gorilla03's Avatar
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    richer is not always better than lean...I was told if it is too rich it could cause a lean condition due to there being more oil than fuel in the mixture just what i was told though...

    might want to do a little research on the mixture

  5. #5
    Lake Mead Bum & BTLS Mark starflight's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gorilla03 View Post
    richer is not always better than lean...I was told if it is too rich it could cause a lean condition due to there being more oil than fuel in the mixture just what i was told though...

    might want to do a little research on the mixture
    I can't agree w/that. Perhaps there is a misunderstanding. If the oil mix is too rich, it will lean out the fuel/air mixture.
    Richer fuel mixture will keep the pistons cooler. If Lean, they can burn up.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by gorilla03 View Post
    richer is not always better than lean...I was told if it is too rich it could cause a lean condition due to there being more oil than fuel in the mixture just what i was told though...

    might want to do a little research on the mixture
    your talking about mix ratios ie 32:1, 40:1 when you add more oil it is taking the place of gasoline in the total amount of fuel/oil mix entering the combustion chamber so some people fatten it up a little. Rich will foul plugs, Lean will melt pistons, take your pick

    to the OP, i honestly have no idea about mixtures on break in, do a search there is plenty on the subject.

    as far as getting the coupler off if your motor is frozen just back it off, if no then do the nylon string method, i have never done it but i have seen it mentioned. I guess search for that also because i have never done it and i dont want to mislead you.

    good luck and keep posting, we all like pictures too!!

  7. #7
    gorilla03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by starflight View Post
    I can't agree w/that. Perhaps there is a misunderstanding. If the oil mix is too rich, it will lean out the fuel/air mixture.
    Richer fuel mixture will keep the pistons cooler. If Lean, they can burn up.

    Il try and find the thread where i found out the info...The way i took it was in the premix if u run to high content of oil, then it will a lean condition on the fuel side of the mixture....

    i may be wrong though

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    I will answer the questions I feel qualified to cover;
    Quote Originally Posted by 97sltx1050 View Post
    well im gonna start cleaning the cases tomorrow ,

    how do i take off the coupler off the crank shaft so i can take it off for new seals , strap it down use a 1 1/2 inch wrench , rotate clockwise or counter clockwise ?
    Regular thread direction, I believe, not left hand thread.
    To stop the crank shaft from rotating, put a length of nylon rope down the plug hole of the PTO cylinder. Enough to stop the piston from rising, but not so much that it pokes out the exhaust port (you don't want to bind the edge of the piston on any rope in the port opening).


    What kind of lube should I use to give the bearings and cylinder walls a head start? Straight 2-cycle oil ?
    Yes

    In bench testing the stator does the flywheel have to be around the stator ?
    If you mean coil resistance (ohm) testing, then the flywheel does not matter.
    If your model CDI uses an electronic Hall effect sensor in the stator (the 9-volt battery test method), then the flywheel will need to be mounted to test that.


    loctite any where? and what kind?

    any silicone on the base gaskets? if yes what kind? 1211?

    Anybody have any bad storys about WSM Platnuim pistons?
    Do a search - there are definite differences between the piston brands. Sometimes OEM is what you need.

    What kind of breaking in times do i have to follow ? I'm going premix, I see 31:1 [during break-in] then 40:1 afterwards. Does that still apply to me with premix?
    Keep in mind that when you change the oil mix after break-in is complete, you might have to adjust the carbs slightly to compensate for the reduced oil content, hence higher fuel percentage.

    I'm at the point I'll finish cleaning the case and and hull , I'll slap every thing together, line up the motor with the drive shaft properly run the stator wires,

    also any body remember the resistor number for the oil tank sender bypass ?
    33 ohms equals full tank reading.
    Be sure you seal up the resistor and crimps (solder them if you can) to avoid corrosion and intermittent problems later on.

    Has any body ever heard of the Bendix slipping out of position because thats what I think happened to me since i could hear the stater motor spinning but then my motor was locked up for no apparent reason after I got everything taking apart

    With the little mods I'll be making, running rich isn't gonna hurt anything for the meantime while breaking in, is it?
    Fuel rich, no. Just watch for spark plug fouling, clean or change plugs to keep the engine running well.
    Oil mixtures during break-in; do a search, there are lots of posts on that subject. There are several factors at work there.

    During break-in, you want friction, as that is what causes the rings to wear in against the cylinder walls. But you don't want too much friction, or you will get excessive wear. Since the cylinder walls are initially rough (relatively speaking), the extra oil helps keep the total metal-to-metal levels within reason, but you don't want so much oil that the rings just can't cut through the oil film to properly scrub the cylinder walls (and the outer ring surfaces themselves, to some extent)

  9. #9

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    ill give randy a call , i call him so much after he gets done saying : watcon this is randy , i say got time to bullshit ?

    thanks for the thoughts , the to much oil is a good point ill ask randy that an also the machine shop thats doing the hone and ring work

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