03-31-2008, 04:41 AM #1
- Join Date
- Sep 2006
alot of misc questions for this green horn
well im gonna start cleaning the cases tomorrow ,
how do i take off the coupler off the crank shaft so i can take it off for new seals , strap it down use a 1 1/2 inch wrench , rotate clockwise or counter clockwise ?
what kinda of lube should i use to give the bearings and cly walls ahead start ? str8 2 cycle oil ?
in bench testing the stator does the flywheel have to be around the stator ?
loctite any where ? and what kind ?
any silocone on the base gaskets ? if yes what kind ? 1211 ?
any body have any bad storys about wsm platnuim pistons ?
what kind of breaking in times do i have to follow ? im going premix , i see 31:1 then 40:1 afterwards does that still apply to me with premix ?
im at the point ill finish cleaning the case and and hull , ill slap every thing togethor , line up the motor with the drive shaft properly run the stator wires ,
also any body remember the risistor number for the oil tank sender bypass ?
has any body ever hurd of the bendix slipping out of position becuase thats what i think is what happened to me since i could hear the stater motor spinning but then my motor was locked up for no apparent reason after i got everything takeing apart ,
with the little mods ill be makeing running rich isnt gonna hurt anything for the meantime while breaking in is it ?
Last edited by Bone1050; 03-31-2008 at 07:18 AM.
03-31-2008, 07:43 AM #2
03-31-2008, 07:48 AM #3
I tried to change the color of my text, but it didn't work.
03-31-2008, 09:08 AM #4
richer is not always better than lean...I was told if it is too rich it could cause a lean condition due to there being more oil than fuel in the mixture just what i was told though...
might want to do a little research on the mixture
03-31-2008, 09:14 AM #5
03-31-2008, 09:59 AM #6
to the OP, i honestly have no idea about mixtures on break in, do a search there is plenty on the subject.
as far as getting the coupler off if your motor is frozen just back it off, if no then do the nylon string method, i have never done it but i have seen it mentioned. I guess search for that also because i have never done it and i dont want to mislead you.
good luck and keep posting, we all like pictures too!!
03-31-2008, 10:18 AM #7
03-31-2008, 10:22 AM #8
- Join Date
- Jul 2007
- near Toronto, Canada
I will answer the questions I feel qualified to cover;
During break-in, you want friction, as that is what causes the rings to wear in against the cylinder walls. But you don't want too much friction, or you will get excessive wear. Since the cylinder walls are initially rough (relatively speaking), the extra oil helps keep the total metal-to-metal levels within reason, but you don't want so much oil that the rings just can't cut through the oil film to properly scrub the cylinder walls (and the outer ring surfaces themselves, to some extent)
03-31-2008, 12:17 PM #9
- Join Date
- Sep 2006
ill give randy a call , i call him so much after he gets done saying : watcon this is randy , i say got time to bullshit ?
thanks for the thoughts , the to much oil is a good point ill ask randy that an also the machine shop thats doing the hone and ring work
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