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  1. #1

    Join Date
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    FX140 General Maintenance/Spring Prep

    So I posted this in the FAQ section, but thought I might get more of a response over here.

    As the riding season approaches, I'm just wondering what I should do to my Ski to get it ready for the water. I haven't been able to find out much about the 140's on here, most any 4-Stroke talk is about the HO or the SHO. I know the SHO is a completely different animal, but can I use most of the information about the HO's for my 140? I know it's pretty much the same thing just with higher compression, so what all information can I (or can't I, whichever is shorter ) use from the HO?

    Here's a list of what I plan to do for it (so far):
    -De-Winterize
    -Change Oil
    -Check Spark Plugs
    -Possibly New Air Filter (Riva?)
    -New Bilge Pump (old one broke)
    -Think I might need to have the valve clearance done, not sure if it's been done before.

    I'm curious how hard it is to DIY the oil & filter. The filter looks Really hard to get at down there under the engine- worth it to let the shop do it? (I can't search for "oil" in the search engine; says the word is too small)

    The only problem I've had with it is that it makes this rattling noise from around the engine (or maybe the impeller?) when it's idling along. It either goes away or gets covered up by engine noise when I get going. Any one else have this happen, or have any thoughts?

    Oh, the Ski is a 2003 Yamaha FX-140 with ~65 hours on it. I bought it last summer from a slightly older couple who used it as a cruiser. It had <50 hours on it when I got it. So far, I'm tickled to death with it, and I just want to make sure that it keeps running like a top! Any insight you have would be appreciated!


  2. #2
    yami_rida#26's Avatar
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    get a compression tester and make sure the compression is still at the right psi in all 4 cylinders.

  3. #3
    volltrex's Avatar
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    Sandcountry

    The oil & filter change is quite straight forward, you will need an oil extractor to remove as much oil as you can (around half). Place paper & rags under the filter to soak up any oil that comes out of it when removing. Best to use the correct size socket (65mm x 14) on the filter & torque up (17 N.m or 12 ft.lb). Access is not too bad, you can do it with out removing any other parts (airbox etc). Replace oil with the same amount that you removed, as long as level was correct in first place.
    Oil has to be hot when checking level, at least 15 mins on hose.
    Apply antisieze to the plugs when refitting.
    Valve clearance should not need doing untill 200 hours.
    Not sure about the rattling noise, can you be more specific?

  4. #4

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    Dec 2007
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    Thanks Volltrex, that's what I was looking for. About the rattling noise, it kind of sounds like something isn't screwed in all the way and is rattling around down there, more towards the back of the engine. It could be in the transmission or the pump, I'm not sure. But there's definitely no mistaking it when it's idling, especially when it's hooked up to a hose in the driveway. But I'm not that concerned about it, it didn't seem to affect it's performance at all last summer. Just one of those things that you wonder about. I'm actually considering taking it in to the mechanic to have the oil changed, just so that he can hear what the noise is, incase it is something important.

  5. #5
    volltrex's Avatar
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    If the rattling noise is only when idling on the hose, then that is completly normal. Its caused because the impeller is not loaded..... sounds like a metalic rattling.

  6. #6

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    Sweet, yeah that's exactly what it sounds like. Good stuff to know.

    But, I think I've got a problem. When I winterized it at Christmas, I used a drill pump to pump RV antifreeze in through the flushing hose. Only, I did it without the ski running. Thought never crossed my mind until I just read something about it. What's the likelihood that I've done damage to the ski? Is there anything that I can do now to prevent any damage?

  7. #7
    volltrex's Avatar
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    Hopefully you did not use too much antifreeze & the pressure from the drill pump was low!

    Personally I don't like to use antifreeze, Yamaha do not mention it in the manuals......but it does only drop below freezing occasionally here.

    When flushing a significant amount of water is diverted back around the pump area without circulating around the motor. If you were to put the antifreeze in without pressure, most of it would just run out this way.................least line of resistance.

    For next time, best way to add antifreeze is to clamp hose in pic below (this makes sure all will go around cooling lines), start motor & immediately add antifreeze, when all is gone rev motor (no more then 5000 rpm) to clear as usual...........no more then 15 secs.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by volltrex; 04-05-2008 at 02:38 AM.

  8. #8
    Check your air filter for oil contamination, this is a common problem with the FX140 and can lead to reduced performance. Your options are to replace the filter or get rid of it using the RIVA kit which basically replaces the constrictive air filter with a flame arrestor if I remember correctly, its called a RIVA Power Filter, you can also get the RIVA Velocity Stack Kit these are available from Jerry's store, these items will wake up your FX140 I added them on both of ours and they are good products:
    http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...roducts_id=165
    http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...4ptdqvpv0u8li3

  9. #9

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    I did clamp off that hose before I pumped the fluid in. And it was definitely a low-pressure pump- it took a minute or two to pump each jug in. It did use up quite a bit of fluid, about 2 bottles of antifreeze, I can't remember how big they were, but they were the same bottle that windshield-washer fluid comes in (at least over here, maybe a little over a gallon each???) I stopped pumping when pink fluid started dripping out from by the jet.

    The important thing is- is there anything I can do to minimize the chance of damage? Should I just start it up in the yard and let it run? Take it down to the water and start it? Try to reverse-pump some of the fluid back out of the flush port? Something else? What's my best option? I really don't want to mess something up even more.

  10. #10
    HopatcongGPR's Avatar
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    the bottom end in these motors are suprisingly light duty.....

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