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  1. #1
    Red Devil's Avatar
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    Swapping out Impellers

    This is the only Mod I have never done myself and the manual shows a whole bunch of stuff that I can't figure out. I am simply swapping out my 13/20 back to the stock impeller to verify some RPM's on the Race Tech Stage I kit and have the pump unit out with the impeller in it. Do I have to remove the cone to get the impeller out? What is this grease that is supposed to be put back in the cone. What is the 12 mm allen key referenced in the manual for? I have the impeller remover/installer tool that came with the Solas. The impeller is supposed to be torqed at 57 pounds. If the impeller remover/installer key is used, how do you measure 57 pounds using that big ass tool? This does not seem as cut and dry as I thought.


  2. #2
    Water4fire's Avatar
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    Yes, you have to remove the cone and the new ski's have grease. Some have changed the grease back to oil. They say it works better.

    The 12mm allen is for the use of actually holding the other side of the impellor shafter so you can use your impellor tool to take of the impellor. this tool fit into the actuall impellor to take it off.

    You measure 57lbs with a torque wrench.

    Hope this helps. I read it on .net also and the first post I believe he thinks you are talking about a 155mm pump and your not.

    Water4fire

  3. #3
    Water4fire's Avatar
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    Red devil.

    Think of it like this. The pump cone holds the grease or oil to prevent damage to your bearings for the pump. You need to seal water out.

    The 12mm allen is inside that cone. That allen makes it possible for you to hold the impellor still while you place your Solas impellor tool into the impellor and spin it off. Imagine the impellor being the nut and the 12mm allen is holding the screw still so it wont spin.

    And you do have grease some people have switched back to oil. I wouldn't IMO.

  4. #4
    Jarrett's Avatar
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    Here is the stuff I can remember off hand. You need:

    12mm Allen
    Impeller tool (resembles pump shaft)
    Bench vice
    3 foot piece of strong pipe to slip the 12mm Allen into for use as pry bar
    13mm socket with extension for venturi (and pump support pm GTX)
    17mm socket with extension for pump housing
    Small Allen for pump cone removal
    Pair of 10mm open wrentches, sockets or ratchet wrenches
    Smaller Allen for trim (RXP)
    Blue and/or Red loctite
    Anti-seize

    Here are the pump removal steps I can remember:

    1. Use 13mm to remove bolts from pump support brace (GTX)
    2. Use 10mm to remove OPAS bolts from OPAS arms
    3. Use smaller Allen to remove pivot bolt from trim arm (RXP)
    4. Don't remove the spring, you don't need to unless you are changing venturis
    5. Use 10mm to remove steering cable linkage
    6. Use 10mm to remove reverse linkage
    7. Use 13mm with extension to remove venturi (I use a drill to speed up)
    8. Use 17mm with extenstion to remove pump housing (again drill, just make sure you go easy as not to damage anything)
    9. Slide the pump housing off the pump shaft and out of the ski
    10. Remove pump nose cone
    11. Put impeller tool in vice facing up
    12. Slide pump impeller side down on the impeller tool
    13. Use medium Allen to remove three bolts from pump cone
    14. Lightly tap nose cone with rubber mallot until you get some space
    15. Gently rock pump cone back and forth to work it out (Might need a flat head screwdriver the first time, but be gentle since its plastic)
    16. Once pump cone is removed, you will see the 12mm Allen hole
    17. Put 12mm Allen in this spot and slide breaker bar/pipe down the end of the Allen
    18. I can't remember which way to go to loosen. Hopefully someone will post this. I want to say you turn counter clockwise to loosen and clockwise to tighten.
    19. Loosen the Allen until it gets easy enough to turn by hand.
    20. Take the pump off the vice/impeller tool and use your hand on the impeller and 12mm Allen to spin the prop off the shaft.

    Now working in reverse from step 20 to 13, replace the prop. You might want to put some anti seize on the prop shaft threads. And make sure to use some sort of loctite when putting the venturi and pump bolts back in. I would recommend blue on the venturi and blue on the pump housing until you find a final prop pitch. Then use red loctite on the pump housing bolts.

    As far as how tight. I do the little bolts just snug and let the loctite do the rest. On the prop, I just lean into it until it stops spinning. But on the pump bolts, I crank the hell out of them. I don't know what the real specs are. I also like to check and clean the seal of the pump housing before putting it back into the ski.

    I don't know that it makes a difference, but I clean the area where the pump housing slides into the pump shoe. Then I put a thin layer of Marine Grease on it to make sure it mates up well. When you go to slide the pump housing back in you may have to lift the shaft coming from the ski to get it to slide in. Once on the shaft, the pump may stop an inch out. This means the prop needs to be lined up on the splines. I usually just back it up a hair and reach over the top of the pump with my fingers and turn the prop slightly. I just repeat that process until it successfully slides flush with the mounting points. (If you are Franko it just works the first time, everytime)

    Then start at step 8 and work backwards:

    8. Use 17mm with extenstion to tighten pump housing (again drill, just make sure you go easy as not to damage anything)
    7. Use 13mm with extension to tighten venturi (I use a drill to speed up)
    6. Use 10mm to tighten reverse linkage
    5. Use 10mm to tighten steering cable linkage
    4. Don't remove the spring, you don't need to unless you are changing venturis
    3. Use smaller Allen to tighten pivot bolt from trim arm (RXP)
    2. Use 10mm to tighten OPAS bolts from OPAS arms
    1. Use 13mm to tighten bolts from pump support brace (GTX)

    Done. I dunno if all those steps are exactly right since I am going from memory, but they should give you some ideas. Hope it helped, good luck.

  5. #5
    Moderator Franko's Avatar
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    Jarrett is the king of prop changing. He even has a double vice setup that attaches to his trailer to swap props on the boat ramp.

  6. #6
    Site Admin Green Hulk's Avatar
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    great info Jarrett!

  7. #7
    Jarrett's Avatar
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    Thanks. I can't remember if its 15mm or 17mm for pump bolts though. One or the other it seems.

  8. #8
    Site Admin Green Hulk's Avatar
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    17 mm!

  9. #9
    Red Devil's Avatar
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    Wow Jarrett,

    Those are great instructions....Thanks I like the example Water4fire used as well "Imagine the impellor being the nut and the 12mm allen is holding the screw still so it wont spin."

  10. #10

    How long does this process usually take?

    Just got a rock stuck in my impeller ordered riva stage 1 kit ,thinking i will do this tomm night,do you use sealent on anything***is it worth having seadoo dealer do work??

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