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  1. #1
    CaptnDelta's Avatar
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    Question New Guy Impulsively gets a 1996 XP for free

    Hi folks, been browsing the forum for a few days, good stuff to find here.

    I didn't wanna hijack mburgert's thread http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=52556, but there was a chunk of good info for a semi-newbie like me to find, so maybe some kind person could help me out with this thing.

    Little background: My neighbours are moving away, and they gave me their 96 XP thats been sitting on their dock for the last few years (side story: I offered them ~$3k around 4 years ago, but they wouldn't take it. Now that they're moving away from the water, they just came over and asked if I had use for it ).

    It's in decent condition hull-wise, motor-wise I've yet to find out since the starter doesn't turn over. I wanted to get it to turn, so I can get the compression, which for me will kinda determine if I just sell the thing for junk, or if its worth working on it. Its got the grey fuel lines, so I gather from the different threads around here that they have to go if I keep it, but thats later. Anyways, here is what I've done so far:

    * Hooked up a charged battery
    * Took the plugs out, put a little spray of WD40 in it, and some 2 stroke oil (to help it break loose, since the thing has been sitting at least for 4 years now)
    * At that point the solenoid in the 'black electrical box' on the starboard side (behind the motor) was clicking when hitting the 'start' button.
    * Took that same 'black electrical box' apart. The solenoid showed 12+Volt on the output side (the fat red cable that goes to the starter). I also measured that against the starter ground, as to check if the ground wire is bad, same voltage still.
    * took the pump off, to turn the motor manually a few turns -- since I had read in a thread here somewhere that the starter may get jammed against the flywheel, and that should break it loose. The motor (no plugs in it) turned rather easily. But the starter still ain't turning.
    * At that point, I tend to believe that the starter is shot. If I missed anything... a little help please .
    * Now, if the starter is out, how does one go about replacing that thing? From the looks, seems like I gotta take the exhaust and the carb's off to even get to it. Is there a better way to do this? The two front screws seem ok, but the bracket on the back of the starter? Any how-to on the web for replacing the starter on that 96 XP?

    The next problem (and that kinda goes along with the above hypothesis) is that the prior owner told me 'over the fence' a few years back that the Seadoo 'wasn't charging the battery'. I think the few times I saw it running, it was run purely off the battery.
    Now, I read a thread around here that starter 'residue' gets into the magneto and basically causes it to short out. Is that likely? Or is it easier to just try to replace the rectifier 1st, and if it still doesn't charge, go after the magneto? Is there a decent 'How-To' around on the web for replacing the magneto?

    I guess thats just my initial batch of questions, thanks for any help!
    -Th

    [edit] here a few snaps of the subject





    Last edited by CaptnDelta; 04-03-2008 at 03:04 AM.


  2. #2
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Congrats on your new freebie! You've done good so far.

    The ground wire is notorious for corroding where it connects under the engine, at the crimp connection under the heat shrink tubing. If this is the case, then the starter won't turn. An easy way to check is to get a set of jumper cables and clamp it on a good engine ground and back to the negative post. If she still doesn't turn over tap lightly on the side of it with a hammer, the brushes could be frozen from sitting. After that if no luck, then the starter is toast. The rear bracket has one socket head bolt that screws up under the engine, although a pain to remove it can be done with an allen wrench without removing the pipe and carbs.

    You do need to remove and clean out the carbs though, before even trying to start it. And do the fuel lines too.

    96's were popular for the rectifier to fail. Most people burned up the stator trying to "jump start" the ski with a battery too large for the load. 96's have a constant drain on the battery, which will kill it if it sits 4 weeks. Hence all the charging problem woes. Buying a Battery Tender corrects this problem, or just disconnect the hot wire off the battery when you know it won't be ridden. When you get it running, check charging voltage @ 3500 rpm. It should be in the 13.4-13.9v range.

    96 ignitions are weak too. Buying a good Gel battery instead of a lead-acid makes cold starts faster, and a better running ski. Trashing the chokes and installing a primer saves the starter too.

    Good luck!
    Last edited by 96XPSS; 04-03-2008 at 07:59 AM.

  3. #3
    CaptnDelta's Avatar
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    Thanks for your help, 96XPSS!

    So, got the starter out and it is toast, new starter is on order. Fuel lines are next, probably over the weekend. For cleaning the carbs, is there a procedure/how-to somewhere on the web? Anything to watch out for? What parts (seals, o-rings, etc) will I need for that? Anyone in the forum on the west coast selling those seals or even a whole kit for doing that carb clean-up?

    As for the charging system, I guess I start with the rectifier, and if that doesn't get charging going dive in for the stator replacement. Anyone got a approximate parts list and a estimate on the parts cost for that?

    Thanks again for all the help,
    -Th

  4. #4
    Moderator RX951's Avatar
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    excellent! And welcome to the forum!

  5. #5
    steach's Avatar
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    Nice find Captn, welcome to GH.

    That engine is clean enough to eat from! The fact that it turns easily by hand is a great sign.

    Attached is a tutorial & mikuni exploded
    Attached Files Attached Files

  6. #6
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Steach was quick with the carb manual link...I was doing a search to find it...

    Unless the carbs are gummed up real bad, you can clean all intenal parts with carb cleaner and reassemble. Otherwise, I think Dennis Kirk has rebuild kits available (close to you). Don't forget the small internal filter screens on the opposite side of the carbs from the jet access side.

    The sad part of this is...if the carbs have never been off before, they are going to be a real pain to get the socket head bolts loose. In 96 they hadn't learned that water+stainless+aluminum= oxidation city. The water gets into the bolt holes through the slot in the lock washer. Then it starts oxidizing and the bolts grow to the carbs. Spray some PB Blaster by the lockwashers, trying to get it to drain into there to loosen it up. Hopefully someone else already had the honors. Coat the bolt shafts with grease when reinstalling, to prevent any future oxidation.

    NAPA makes a great black fuel line (PVC/EEC grade). Get your stainless worm clamps from Lowe's or Home Depot, the auto stores worm clamp(s) bolt head(s) aren't stainless. And rust quickly.

    Happy wrenching!

  7. #7
    CaptnDelta's Avatar
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    Whoa, steach, awesome, thanks a ton for that!
    Yea, its pretty clean inside, I didn't expect that. I shoulda used a camera with flash for those pics, it doesn't come out right in those snaps. I hope the internals of the motor are just as 'clean'.

    Now, if someone has the same kinda instructions for the magneto replacement...

    Thanks again,
    -Th

    BTW: I didn't get a owners manual with it, is that online somewhere too? How about a shop manual (ok, I stop now )

  8. #8
    CaptnDelta's Avatar
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    Hi 96XPSS,

    Quote Originally Posted by 96XPSS View Post
    ...
    96's have a constant drain on the battery, which will kill it if it sits 4 weeks. Hence all the charging problem woes. Buying a Battery Tender corrects this problem, or just disconnect the hot wire off the battery when you know it won't be ridden.
    ...
    Regarding above, do we know what actually drains the battery? I found the schematics on the forum here somewhere, and it shows two main fuses:
    * one 15 amp that goes to the main computer in the white box
    * one 7.5 amp that goes to the VTS.

    I was thinking about putting a switch in series to the fuse that has the drain, basically accessible via the 'black box' behind the motor. This way I'd only have to lift the seat and flip the switch to stop the battery drain. Would you think that works?

    Thanks,
    -Th

  9. #9
    flyin' the friendly skies airbornexp's Avatar
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    owners manual...

    I have the owners manual if you want it... I tried to attach it but I cant get it too. Send me a PM with your e-mail addy and i'll send it to you.

  10. #10
    diver2694's Avatar
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    Download your own manual from here..

    http://www.pwctoday.com/showthread.php?t=128441

    Aim to please..

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