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  1. #1

    breakin on speedster and I hit 50???

    I was breakin in my speedster 215 hp 150 and I'm goin up and down ,movin the rpm's around and I was at maybe 6,500 when I went to give it a 1 sec wot burst and I'm on the second hour almost completed . I got back to the dock and I saw its max speed on my gps was 50.8 I only hit it quick and It took off. I was just wondering if that was ok or do I have the Rpm's still tooo high for breakin at 2hrs? This Speed is tooo addicting.

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Lakeland, FL
    Everything sounds fine to me. Next hour, you'll be able to give it more like a 5 sec burst of WOT, then more on the next hour. A one second burst isn't going to produce thrust long enough to get you to your top speed.

  3. #3
    Ok, but I was worried about how high is too high to be revin? I understand the bursts . I wanna go fast whats my next step ,I have the better flowin air intake so I dont think I have to change that ,I'm gonna do the rideplate trick fill the holes, what can I do next to get a little more top end. Show me the way to speed vx1 ,you said you ran 57mph stock
    Last edited by atom1234; 04-10-2008 at 07:19 PM.

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Lakeland, FL
    Well, you know by now that I'm happy to help any way a can. You need to rev it as high as it will go (probably 7900 to 7950 now), but like we said, just a second or two, maybe every five or ten minutes, but when you hit hour 3 and 4, your going to WOT for longer periods, and by hour 5, I'd run it decently hard (always after the engine is fully warm).

    I brought my baby home January 2007, and was through break-in by February. That's when I was running 57mph stock, when the water was as cold as it gets in Florida. If I stayed stock, the boat would have been a 55mph boat in July. That's just barely faster than a lot of bass boats, and too slow for me. Especially when you have a couple of passengers and have trouble hitting 53mph. Think long and hard about what you're willing to invest, cause it can be an addiction and even a detour of properly funding your retirement account. Look at me, I had the Green SC wheel for maybe three hours, and the Stage 3 supercharger for about an hour and a half before I decide I have to have a Rude (still waiting for it). Filling the rideplate holes is a start since it's almost free, but it didn't do anything for me, although I probably didn't sand then down flush enough.

    I had someone PM me about my mods a while back, and I gave him a rundown of my opinion of the worthiness of the mods I've done; I'll go ahead and post that here:

    1) Stereo/speakers/amp- my opinion is the stock system is nearly worthless. I''ve probably spent $500 to make it nice and strong.

    2) 4" air intake- very worth it, good price vs performance factor; for $100, just this mod will bring your boat to that next level of performance. My first intake was great... my current one, I spent too much money and time on and it didn't make it that much better.

    3) New prop- I loved the 13/18 I put on when I only had the intake, but I quickly grew out of it with new mods. The prop really needs to match your horsepower, so if you are continually modding like me, you can go through some props.

    4) SS wear ring- My plastic wear rings were only lasting a few hours. I'm glad I went with this mod, it helps reduce that cavitation feeling on holeshot, but don't get it without the solid front engine mount, or you'll eat away your props.

    5) Solid front engine mount- Only got it because it's necessary with the SS wear ring.

    6) Groco strainer- some say this is only necessary with an external IC, but I put it on before that. The first time you suck weeds up and have to remove the stock IC to back-flush it(pain in the ass), you would see the value in this. At only $40, I think it's a no-brainer.

    7) External Intercooler- The XS Power is the way to go, and the right setup can be had for under $400. This brings you to another performance level, and is pretty much mandatory with larger superchargers, because of the heat they produce.

    Superchargers- I had the drop-in Green wheel before, and it's a good value for $450, BUT, I see used Stage 3 wheels and housings for sale for $600 - $650, and my opinion is, the S3 SC is soooo far and beyond better than any drop-in wheel, save your money for that. I'm about to move up to a Rude myself. I'm crazy-fast right now, but I want to know what stupid-fast feels like.

    9) Metal SC washers- Don't even think about running your boat without these.

    10) Boost gauge- Unnecessary, until you get an external IC or larger SC. Now that I have both, I look at my boost gauge more than anything else. It tells me the health of the boat, if I've developed a boost leak, etc.

    11) 42# fuel injectors- was necessary with the external intercooler and S3 SC. Used set can be had for $100 - $125.

    12) Thermostat- Absolutely unnecessary, until you experience the heat-fade that a larger supercharger (or 100 degree day) can induce.

    I have since dumped the 42# injectors in favor of the new Rude rising rate fuel pressure regulator, which gave me the option of finally getting a Rude supercharger. I hope to be testing that in a week. I also bought a used GTX-SC/RXT venturi and steering nozzle because it's a mm smaller than ours on the boat, and I should be able to dail in a tad more speed.

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