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  1. #1
    1low59's Avatar
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    Intro and my new 780

    I like to introduce myself with my first Polaris purchase. I picked up a 1997 slt780 on eBay the other day for about 600 bucks. Not sure if it was the deal of the century but it was near by, and after riding a buddies 96 slt700 I was very impressed with the Polaris characteristics. I Just started out in this hobby a few years ago with a wr500 that I stuck in the ocean down with my boat, and immediately was obsessed with the hobby
    My new Polaris looks really clean in and out, and the guy said everything worked great including the mfd. Until One day he said it wouldnít start. A shop quoted him a price on a bendix after 250 dollars was spent on diagnosing the problem. 250 dollars was his limit on what he wanted to spend. This does seem to be the problem, after checking the ground and starter cables with a new battery . Electric starter motor spins but does not engage with the flywheel.
    I down loaded the manuals and the engine removal procedures, and got the engine out this evening. After looking in the exhaust ports, the cyl walls look really clean and the pistons look really nice too with no corrosion pitting of any sort, Impeller looks brand new . But Iím by no means an expert in pwc. So here are a few questions I have

    -I was happy with the way every thing looked until I got the flywheel cover off, and about half a cup of water poured out. Fly wheel looks a bit rusted. Is this common for what to get into? Looks like the ski may have had a bit of standing water in it.

    -How the heck do I get the fly wheel off, Got the nut off and sprayed with liquid wrench, tapped with a hammer, and used a cheap Auto Zone flywheel puller, and snapped puller in half? Do I need to apply heat some how?

    -If thereís water in the flywheel, what are the chances of it being in the crank case, and is there a way to check or is there a drain bolt thatís underneath the motor?

    -Is this the time to convert to an oil block off so I can mix my own two stroke in the tank. Or should I just inspect the oil pump, clean it, and use it? How would I do this?

    -What the heck is all the black spatter looking stuff in the inside of my hull and engine. Buddy said it maybe dried up moss or mold? Its sort of hard and looks like some one lit some tires up in the hull.



    Sorry for the long winded post, and I hope I didnít already meet my question quota.

    Iím really anxious to get this running, and hope itís as fast as my buddies slt750 and much faster than my current Kawi STS.

    Thanks already for all the help, Iíve been glued to this forum for the last couple of days, and itís been a tremendous resource.
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  2. #2
    Water Bum Rodneyae's Avatar
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    Welcome to the HULK!!!

  3. #3
    RiverRat19405, im a rat in the water RiverRat19405's Avatar
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    looks like it was sumerged in water if i where you id do a complete tear downif water is in the bottom end your wasting your time i bet the starter is rusted to hell too btw welcome to the hulk an Good Luck with your new rideit is very fast you should smoke your buddy's 750

  4. #4
    seaobin's Avatar
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    Oh OPh Mr Cotter Mr Cotter!!

    I can answer one of those questions. Yes there are three case drain plugs under the exhaust ports, just below the starter. Remember to put them back in.

    However, I agree with Rat. if you have the engine out and about $100; pull it apart, clean, inspect, and re-assemble.

    Once you get it pull apart, you can make a better assesment whether you got a deal, or if we have found a new parts source

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk!
    Quote Originally Posted by 1low59 View Post
    ...1997 slt780
    ...
    A shop quoted him a price on a bendix after 250 dollars was spent on diagnosing the problem... checking the ground and starter cables with a new battery. Electric starter motor spins but does not engage with the flywheel.
    It is definitely less expensive, and often more effective, to do your own diagnosis and repairs!
    Especially with Green Hulk as a resource.


    I down loaded the manuals and the engine removal procedures, and got the engine out this evening. After looking in the exhaust ports, the cylinder walls look really clean and the pistons look really nice too with no corrosion pitting of any sort,
    Impeller looks brand new.
    Since you have the engine out, you might as well pull the jet pump off, and check the impeller to wear ring clearance, and verify that the bearings in the pump stator are turning smoothly.

    But Iím by no means an expert in pwc. So here are a few questions I have


    -I was happy with the way every thing looked until I got the flywheel cover off, and about half a cup of water poured out. Fly wheel looks a bit rusted. Is this common for what to get into? Looks like the ski may have had a bit of standing water in it.

    -How the heck do I get the fly wheel off, Got the nut off and sprayed with liquid wrench, tapped with a hammer, and used a cheap Auto Zone flywheel puller, and snapped puller in half? Do I need to apply heat some how?
    Do an Advanced Search on here in the Polaris section. Short answer, it typically takes a LOT of force to get the flywheel off, plus some heat around the shaft area. Cheap pullers are not the answer - get a decent one.
    When it lets go, people say it sounds like a gunshot, and some have flown across the garage, so beware of the release energy!


    -If thereís water in the flywheel, what are the chances of it being in the crank case, and is there a way to check or is there a drain bolt thatís underneath the motor?
    There are drain bolts under the exhaust side of the block.

    -Is this the time to convert to an oil block off so I can mix my own two stroke in the tank.
    Or should I just inspect the oil pump, clean it, and use it? How would I do this?
    Some prefer pre-mixing, others are happier not having to mix oil with gas - less chance of forgetting and running regular fuel.
    There are oil-pump rebuild kits available, I think.
    Polaris oil-pumps seem to be fairly reliable, overall.


    -What the heck is all the black spatter looking stuff in the inside of my hull and engine. Buddy said it maybe dried up moss or mold? Its sort of hard and looks like some one lit some tires up in the hull.
    Hard to tell from the photos, but since you have the engine out; Seal up the through hull drive shaft hole (Plastic bag an elastic band), then go to town with the cleaning.
    Again, do a search. There are lots of ways.

    Sorry for the long winded post, and I hope I didnít already meet my question quota.
    No quota on good questions!
    The primary etiquette item is to do some searches before you ask your questions, so we aren't answering questions that others have asked before.
    Having said that, often your particular issue or situation will differ from the other posts on the topic, so go ahead and ask.


    Iím really anxious to get this running, and hope itís as fast as my buddies slt750 and much faster than my current Kawi STS.
    Take the time to go over everything, and get it all the way it should be.
    These Polaris PWC can be quite reliable, but only if you take the time to make it that way.

    Again, do some searches for the common upgrades and reliability fixes;
    Fuel line replacement (including inside the fuel tank), fuel pump triple outlet upgrade, and so on.


    Thanks already for all the help, Iíve been glued to this forum for the last couple of days, and itís been a tremendous resource.
    Some have called it an addiction

  6. #6
    www.springbreak-florida.com rgard32's Avatar
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    use a propane torch around where the flywheel goes on the crank.....and make sure the puller is tight when you do it...

  7. #7
    I'D RATHER SWEAT THAN SHIVER hyoctane23's Avatar
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    I agree that it sounds like a gunshot when the flywheel finally comes off. I didn't use any heat but I had a good puller. Just be ready for it!

  8. #8
    SPEED KILLS, BUT YOU GET THERE QUICKER Keddano's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1low59 View Post

    -I was happy with the way every thing looked until I got the flywheel cover off, and about half a cup of water poured out. Fly wheel looks a bit rusted. Is this common for what to get into? Looks like the ski may have had a bit of standing water in it.
    Being around boats my whole life...That ski has sat in the water somewhere and took some water in the hull..With luck, it was just that,left tied up at a dock,and not ran or sunk. Since the motor is out,pull the 3 drain plugs and see if there any rust on the bolt ends or water in the case. My guess is there isn't. My feels are the boat sat for a long time holding the water in the hull.The black spots are oil that floated around on top the water and settled. Dealt with that when I bought a 38' boat that have sunk in a canal.

    -How the heck do I get the fly wheel off, Got the nut off and sprayed with liquid wrench, tapped with a hammer, and used a cheap Auto Zone flywheel puller, and snapped puller in half? Do I need to apply heat some how? A good puller,Don't use too much heat as you can ruin the stator windings.You'll find the stator will have rust on it,but that doesn't mean it's trash,You can clean them up alot of the times.

    -If thereís water in the flywheel, what are the chances of it being in the crank case, and is there a way to check or is there a drain bolt thatís underneath the motor?As long as the intake didn't get under water you should be good,Can you sorta see a line where the oil makes stop? Height wise?

    -Is this the time to convert to an oil block off so I can mix my own two stroke in the tank. Or should I just inspect the oil pump, clean it, and use it? How would I do this?Personal choice.

    -What the heck is all the black spatter looking stuff in the inside of my hull and engine. Buddy said it maybe dried up moss or mold? Its sort of hard and looks like some one lit some tires up in the hull.See above...Dried Oil



    Sorry for the long winded post, and I hope I didnít already meet my question quota. All good questions.

    Iím really anxious to get this running, and hope itís as fast as my buddies slt750 and much faster than my current Kawi STS.Get it right the first time.

    Thanks already for all the help, Iíve been glued to this forum for the last couple of days, and itís been a tremendous resource.
    Welcome, If you want a piece of mind at least pull the top end off so you can see the crankcase area and check the crank area visully.

  9. #9
    1low59's Avatar
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    Thanks all, that was all great info, and Iím off to find a decent puller, and some propane.
    I read somewhere you can burn the seals if it gets to hot, So Iíll be careful with the heat, and now know where to apply heat. I was afraid that the ski may have been submerged, but Iíll soon find out. Itís all sort of a mystery, the guy who I bought it from had every record of the ski since day one, and the dates and repairs all coincide with his story, but who knows?? I didnít use a gauge or anything on the pump, but the impeller looked great, and practically brand new. Iíll have a closer look when I find my gauge and measure the gap.
    That black spatter stuff goes all the way up to the water rail, but donít see a defined line, and like I said when I look in the exhaust ports it looks perfect in there. Iíl see if I can get some shots inside the cyl.
    Keep you posted on my progress and a big thanks.

  10. #10
    SPEED KILLS, BUT YOU GET THERE QUICKER Keddano's Avatar
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    If it was docked and bobbing around all the time with water, it may not show a clear line. I'm thinking your OK inside.

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